Grading Grading lawn for new grass

   / Grading lawn for new grass #1  

SI2305

Gold Member
Joined
May 5, 2006
Messages
320
Hello TBNR's, Its been a long time since I posted, but I have a question for anyone out there.

I have a patch of lawn in my backyard that is darn difficult to grow grass on. It slopes west into a dense wooded lot, is about 25-30 feet wide (East to west) and about 150 feet long (North to South). I live in Southern Illinois where we get terribly hot summers, and this patch of "lawn" gets the worst combination of heat and shade. I am thinking about grading over it and starting from scratch.

With that in mind, what would be the best implement to use to grade this sloped area so that the sun-baked clay can get nice and tilled up again. I own a JD 2305 and absolutely love it. As far as implements, I have a cx200 loader, LX4, and 5'grader blade. I would like to get something that would not be too terribly expensive that could be used to till the ground and still be used for other projects.

Does this mean a landscape rake? Will it actually till deeply? A box blade? Will it till evenly? I really don't want to spend the money on a tiller, but any advice is appreciated.

Thanks in advance

SI 2305
 
   / Grading lawn for new grass #2  
See if you can find a small power-rake to rent,
and you will be thrilled with the results.

:D
 
   / Grading lawn for new grass #3  
SI2305,

A landscape rake won't do much for tilling soil. Obviously, a tiller is best for tilling, but not good for much else, and pretty expensive.

My recommendation would be a box blade. When you put the rippers down, it will break up the soil and the blade smoothes it back out.

You will be surprised at how many uses you find for a box blade, not the least of which is to act as a counter balance for the loader.

If you wanted to go cheaper, you could also try a middle buster, then smooth it out with the grader blade. This would be slower, but would still work and give you some more seat time.

Best of luck.
 
   / Grading lawn for new grass #4  
I think Dutch445 meant Harley Rake, not power-rake. I have a 2305 as well and you'll probably have a hard time finding one to fit the 2305 - most places here will rent them, but they come with a little bigger tractor too.

You'll have better luck finding a tiller for rent. You're not dealing with that large of an area so perhaps a (gasp!!) walk-behind rear-tine tiller would be an option. Run the tines in reverse, go over it once, add soil amendments, go over again. Seed, lightly rake, cover (straw or the like if needed) and water. Water in small amounts several times per day.

Many folks sing the praises of the King Kutter tiller - it's about $1400 to purchase.

You may want to take a soil sample and have it analyzed so you can make the proper soil amendments - it makes a HUGE difference.

So - my opinions on options:

1. Harley rake
2. Tiller
3. Box blade or other "ripper"

Good luck!

Scott
 
   / Grading lawn for new grass #5  
Harley Rake, Power Rake, all the same to me, just one's a name brand.


There are also walk behind units that might be rentable.. or a tiller.

What's nice with the harley style rake is it really prepares the seedbed
nicely, while windrowing rocks/sod etc for a once and done finished job.

Also, agree with the soil sampling, may need some lime worked into the mix.

good luck!
 
   / Grading lawn for new grass
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Runner,

I hear you about the landscape rake, and that was my biggest concern. Also, I do already have a garden tiller, but this job seems huge for my front tine, walk-behind unit, and I doubt I can talk my wife into getting another tiller when we already have one. Forgive me, but could you explain to me what a "middle buster" is? Is this similar to a subsoiler?

Thanks in advance,



SI2305
 
   / Grading lawn for new grass #7  
A middle buster is like a subsoiler, but has a V shaped plow blade (you can tell I'm not a farmer...) in place of the tooth.

Actually, I used the wrong name, when I said middle buster, I was thinking of a subsoiler. They're pretty close to the same thing though, and King Kutter is one company that makes both.
 
   / Grading lawn for new grass #8  
Harley Rake, Power Rake, all the same to me, just one's a name brand.


There are also walk behind units that might be rentable.. or a tiller.

What's nice with the harley style rake is it really prepares the seedbed
nicely, while windrowing rocks/sod etc for a once and done finished job.

Also, agree with the soil sampling, may need some lime worked into the mix.

good luck!

Hmmm...interesting. Here in MN a "power rake" is a motorized dethatcher. Guess that is where my thought process was.

Scott
 
   / Grading lawn for new grass #9  
Runner,

I hear you about the landscape rake, and that was my biggest concern. Also, I do already have a garden tiller, but this job seems huge for my front tine, walk-behind unit, and I doubt I can talk my wife into getting another tiller when we already have one. Forgive me, but could you explain to me what a "middle buster" is? Is this similar to a subsoiler?

Thanks in advance,



SI2305

Look for a rental 4' or 50" tiller or rent a rear-tine tiller that can run the tines in either direction - you'll want to run them in reverse.

Completely different beast than the front-tine tiller that you have - you can walk alongside with one hand on the tiller and a beer in the other (done that). Of course the 3-point tiller is the ultimate, but not sure what you have for rental places nearby or folks you could borrow one from.

Good luck!

Scott
 
   / Grading lawn for new grass
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Cast and Blast

Actually I have used the rear tine units you are talking about and you are absolutely right about them. I also probably could just rent a 3pt tiller, but I was hoping to use this as an opportunity to add another implement to my collection, hence the opening thoughts about landscape rake or box blade. Another project I have in mind is to do about 200 feet of shallow trenching for an irrigation system for my expanding fruit patch and orchard. Around here, all I have to do is bury the line about 6 inches and it is safe from frost or freezing. I imagine that a BB with just one ripper dropped all the way down would do the trick. For that matter, so would a subsoiler. Thanks though for the info, this gives me more opportunities to play (I mean work) with my tractor.

SI2305
 

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