asylum575
Platinum Member
I used a box blade to loosen up the soil. After it was fluffy, I raked the loose soil where I wanted it. You may need a few passes with each.
Grading Grading lawn for new grass
- Thread starter SI2305
- Start date
- Views: 5944
LBrown59
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2004
- Messages
- 16,831
- Tractor
- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
You might be able to get a used tiller for bout half of new.
NuBota
Gold Member
I just recently did some similar work - experimented with the implements I have - the FEL and a rear blade. First I made a couple of passes with the RB going about 2 inches deep each time creating a pile. Then redistributed the pile smoothed it back out. Did some areas with the FEL and found it seemed a little easier. I did grab a chain drag harrow from TSC to finish smoothing, mixing in lime and finally seeding. Not as efficient as a tiller or power rake, or even a box blade, but got good seat time, good practice on fine tuning FEL and RB technique and the harrow came in handy for de-thatching the rest of the yard and prepping for over-seeding. Also, my yard is all pea gravel and clay/sand. Harrow works well for moving the rocks that congregate on top.
Not saying this is the way to do it - but I have very little use for a tiller /power rake - would be a one time deal. A BB would get more use, but not significant enough to justify the expense - yet. I expect to grab one eventually, but I've learned to use the RB and as a landscape rake and grader, and it's good for snow (if we ever get any again). Wish we had a place that rented 3ph implements.....
Not saying this is the way to do it - but I have very little use for a tiller /power rake - would be a one time deal. A BB would get more use, but not significant enough to justify the expense - yet. I expect to grab one eventually, but I've learned to use the RB and as a landscape rake and grader, and it's good for snow (if we ever get any again). Wish we had a place that rented 3ph implements.....
NuBota,
I am just curious, how did you get your RB to dig in two inches? Maybe you have some softer soil than I do. The clay soil I have in direct summer heat with no grass to cover it (exactly the reason I need grass on it in the first place!) turns into something just shy of concrete. I imagine that the RB would scrape up a little dust, but I would be amazed if it could actually dig in two inches.
Now the RB works very well for my grading and smoothing out lumps on my gravel driveway, and it can nicely angle to catch those little "windrows" of rock that the tires of the cars tend to push over to the edge. If I angle it right, I can bring these right back in place. The RB is great for snow--last winter I dug out our neighbor who was so stuck thath AAA drove by and refused to her tow out because they deemed her driveway impassable! A couple of passes with my 2305 and rear blade and her driveway was as clear as could be. So much for AAA!
This has wandered, but I still am curious as to how effectively the RB would work on my hard clay. I am also thinking that any implement I use for this would also be useful for my trenching plan I have for my orchard. As I said before, the winters here are mild enough that frozen soil should not be a problem as long as I stay at about 4-6 inches deep. By the way, thanks to all who have replied, this has been very useful to me.
SI2305
JD 2305
CX200 loader
LX4
5' Grader Blade
I am just curious, how did you get your RB to dig in two inches? Maybe you have some softer soil than I do. The clay soil I have in direct summer heat with no grass to cover it (exactly the reason I need grass on it in the first place!) turns into something just shy of concrete. I imagine that the RB would scrape up a little dust, but I would be amazed if it could actually dig in two inches.
Now the RB works very well for my grading and smoothing out lumps on my gravel driveway, and it can nicely angle to catch those little "windrows" of rock that the tires of the cars tend to push over to the edge. If I angle it right, I can bring these right back in place. The RB is great for snow--last winter I dug out our neighbor who was so stuck thath AAA drove by and refused to her tow out because they deemed her driveway impassable! A couple of passes with my 2305 and rear blade and her driveway was as clear as could be. So much for AAA!
This has wandered, but I still am curious as to how effectively the RB would work on my hard clay. I am also thinking that any implement I use for this would also be useful for my trenching plan I have for my orchard. As I said before, the winters here are mild enough that frozen soil should not be a problem as long as I stay at about 4-6 inches deep. By the way, thanks to all who have replied, this has been very useful to me.
SI2305
JD 2305
CX200 loader
LX4
5' Grader Blade
Egon
Epic Contributor
SI2305, is this strip of lawn between trees? If so attempts at establishing a conventional lawn be be very difficult as the tree roots will take up most of the moisture during dry period's and just in general prohibit the growth of regular lawn grasses.
If this is the case perhaps think of other vegetation or grasses to grow in this area and perhaps rethink your mowing techniques.
All I'm am trying to say is that with the best of cultivation and lawn type grasses this area may not be Ideal for lawn and other options could be looked at.
If this is the case perhaps think of other vegetation or grasses to grow in this area and perhaps rethink your mowing techniques.
All I'm am trying to say is that with the best of cultivation and lawn type grasses this area may not be Ideal for lawn and other options could be looked at.
KML
Gold Member
SI2305,
I'm in southern Indiana and have a very hard clay soil as well. I agree that a rear blade is not effective for this. Here's what I've found..
Rear blade: My blade weights over 300 pounds and when the clay is dry it just skips accross the surface. Even adding 200 pounds to it doesn't make muck of a difference. Try to work it when it's wet and you'll have moguls.
A landscape rake will do SOME good and take it down about 1/2" per pass. Not anywhere near as good as a power rake but passable. One of the more used tools I have especially for the gravel drive. Also great for finish leveling areas you disturbed in the yard like trenches. Get gauge wheels!
I have a subsoiler/middle buster combo and have used it for trenching water, electric, and drain tile and must say it has earned its keep. If you do any gardening at all it makes a huge difference in the soil for tilling and planting.
I have a walk behind rear tine and a 50" PTO tiller (JD 450) and just dropping the tiller on virgin hard baked clay is hard on the tiller. Run through with the subsoiler first and then till and it's SOOOO much easier.
So with that all said, If I were you and wanted to justify a new tool (toy) and money was a concern I'd get the sub soiler. It's cheap, will do this job, and will be worth it's weight in gold for the trenching to come. It makes any tilling you do with your walk behind much easier on you and the tiller. Make sure you get one for a SCUT as some of the bigger ones won't come up high enough to clear the ground on my 2210. I have a FarmForce SC from TSC and have been happy with it.
I also agree with egon, I had a trouble area that just kept getting sun baked in the heat of the summer and grass had a hard time. I seeded it with Dutch white clover and have been very happy with it. Something to think about..
I'm in southern Indiana and have a very hard clay soil as well. I agree that a rear blade is not effective for this. Here's what I've found..
Rear blade: My blade weights over 300 pounds and when the clay is dry it just skips accross the surface. Even adding 200 pounds to it doesn't make muck of a difference. Try to work it when it's wet and you'll have moguls.
A landscape rake will do SOME good and take it down about 1/2" per pass. Not anywhere near as good as a power rake but passable. One of the more used tools I have especially for the gravel drive. Also great for finish leveling areas you disturbed in the yard like trenches. Get gauge wheels!
I have a subsoiler/middle buster combo and have used it for trenching water, electric, and drain tile and must say it has earned its keep. If you do any gardening at all it makes a huge difference in the soil for tilling and planting.
I have a walk behind rear tine and a 50" PTO tiller (JD 450) and just dropping the tiller on virgin hard baked clay is hard on the tiller. Run through with the subsoiler first and then till and it's SOOOO much easier.
So with that all said, If I were you and wanted to justify a new tool (toy) and money was a concern I'd get the sub soiler. It's cheap, will do this job, and will be worth it's weight in gold for the trenching to come. It makes any tilling you do with your walk behind much easier on you and the tiller. Make sure you get one for a SCUT as some of the bigger ones won't come up high enough to clear the ground on my 2210. I have a FarmForce SC from TSC and have been happy with it.
I also agree with egon, I had a trouble area that just kept getting sun baked in the heat of the summer and grass had a hard time. I seeded it with Dutch white clover and have been very happy with it. Something to think about..
LBrown59
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2004
- Messages
- 16,831
- Tractor
- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
NuBota
Gold Member
SI2305,
The soil is pretty compacted, but breaks apart easily. It is very much like what they consider bank run around here. Basically a reddish brown loam (I think that is the right term) with a bunch of pea gravel. Main difference it seems like it is more than 50% gravel. When I was trying to get soil samples with a trowel, 4" down, I basically had to fill a coffee can and then sift out the rocks to get a good sample of dirt. And wore blisters digging it up. Great stuff to try and grow grass in....(not!) I don't hit hard packed clay until about 16+" down. I would imagine the RB on that would be less capable, but for me, only thing hitting that is the hoe. I have a Wood's RB60, think it's about 230#. My biggest challenge has always been keeping it from biting too deep.
I did like using the FEL to dig/scrape. Took some practice, but got pretty good at it, even on the slopes. But, again, not sure how it would fare in hard clay. Definitely think you need tiller/power rake or BB/subsoiler to break that stuff up.
I also struggle with the wooded /shady areas - Oak, Beech and Black Walnut. The Oaks seem to cause the soil to become more acidic. PH is much lower (5.5-6.0) there than in my cleared front yard (which holds well at 7.0 with very infrequent lime application). Holly Trees grow like weeds at the base of the oaks. Even when the grass takes in the gravel and shade, it struggles. I am going to attack the PH issue hard now and see if it improves - if not, will look for other ground cover.....
The soil is pretty compacted, but breaks apart easily. It is very much like what they consider bank run around here. Basically a reddish brown loam (I think that is the right term) with a bunch of pea gravel. Main difference it seems like it is more than 50% gravel. When I was trying to get soil samples with a trowel, 4" down, I basically had to fill a coffee can and then sift out the rocks to get a good sample of dirt. And wore blisters digging it up. Great stuff to try and grow grass in....(not!) I don't hit hard packed clay until about 16+" down. I would imagine the RB on that would be less capable, but for me, only thing hitting that is the hoe. I have a Wood's RB60, think it's about 230#. My biggest challenge has always been keeping it from biting too deep.
I did like using the FEL to dig/scrape. Took some practice, but got pretty good at it, even on the slopes. But, again, not sure how it would fare in hard clay. Definitely think you need tiller/power rake or BB/subsoiler to break that stuff up.
I also struggle with the wooded /shady areas - Oak, Beech and Black Walnut. The Oaks seem to cause the soil to become more acidic. PH is much lower (5.5-6.0) there than in my cleared front yard (which holds well at 7.0 with very infrequent lime application). Holly Trees grow like weeds at the base of the oaks. Even when the grass takes in the gravel and shade, it struggles. I am going to attack the PH issue hard now and see if it improves - if not, will look for other ground cover.....
ChrisJD4320
Bronze Member
I have a tiller and a middle buster. The tiller does a great job turning hard packed soil into a fluffy seedbed that's perfect for new grass. I bought the middle buster because I can take the plow blade off and turn it into a subsoiler. A 2" X 8" piece of 1/4" steel (or so) would bolt on and VOILA! Two implements for the price of one!. TSC probably has chisel points or something I could bolt on as well. I need to check that out. Good luck!
ispan1
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2007
- Messages
- 55
- Location
- Finger Lakes, NY
- Tractor
- Kubota l245, Ferguson TEA-20, Farmall Cub (Sold...Play taps in your head)
Any thoughts on regrading a bumpy clay lawn? 3 acres worth?
