Grading with a Back Blade

   / Grading with a Back Blade #11  
Put gauge wheels on the back blade. Makes it a different attachment that does work.
 
   / Grading with a Back Blade #12  
Put gauge wheels on the back blade. Makes it a different attachment that does work.

I would suggest a tail wheel.
 
   / Grading with a Back Blade #13  
Place your blade at a sharp angle towards the center of the road. It seems to help reduce the washboard.
 
   / Grading with a Back Blade #14  
Gauge wheels combined with hydraulic top link are the cats meow for grading. Drop the 3PH all the way down so the gauge wheels are carrying the blade then adjust cut depth with the top link.
Running the blade at an angle adds to the performance with or without gauge wheels. It tends to cancel the "washboard"

Edit: Sorry, simultaneous posting. :)
 
   / Grading with a Back Blade #16  
Place your blade at a sharp angle towards the center of the road. It seems to help reduce the washboard.

I run my BB at a 45 degree angle to the road and it seems to do a fairly good job. I have 6" long teeth on my bucket, so I scarify with the bucket going backwards only on the high spots, first. Then attack with the BB turned backwards at the 45 degree angle. I start on one side and basically 'carry' the windrow over to the other side, then carry it back to the first side again. It is easier to do it than it is to explain.
 
   / Grading with a Back Blade #17  
Man - whatever works for any/all of us. Even at a 45 degree angle my Land Pride RB3596 was just too light for summer maintenance. It weighed 565#. My new Rhino 950 - 96" & 1100#. It's weight is finally sufficient to cut my driveway in the summer. The driveway surface is a combination of crushed granite, sand and fines. It sets up like concrete after things dry out in the spring. I've priced adding a 6" lift of just crushed rock - - it would certainly make grading and shaping easier but I don't think I would live long enough to pay off the loan required to finance the project. Last estimate about eight years ago - $25K.
 
   / Grading with a Back Blade #18  
The vertical angle of the blade is also important to cutting.
 
   / Grading with a Back Blade #19  
We added a loop at the end of our driveway this year, about 500 ft. I had the same hump/dip problem with the new road base. Couldn't make it quite right no matter how carefully I worked it.
So I finally bought a tailwheel kit and gathering plates. World of difference. It took about 3 shallow passes to make it right. BTW- With the tailwheel is when you float with a chain for toplink.
 
   / Grading with a Back Blade #20  
Did you people read he is useing a box blade. Not useing a back blade.

I have yet to see a box blade you could angle to the center. The idea behind a box blade is to use the shanks to dig up and sofften the gravel. the box edge is supposed to ride leval across the high spots digging them up and the 3pt arms stay leval so the gravel drops in the hole.

Doesn't seem to be some thing you can do quickly. Have to go sloly and make many passes withth eback blade stock from the store.

Seat time.

:D Al
 
 

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