Grand L: problems with the tie rods?

[Dargo]

The Kubota CNH, and Deere are very similar. I've owned several of both. If you have just eliminated them from what you will buy, you have now religated yourself to the 2nd or 3rd tier tractors where you are up for pot luck on both the dealer and the tractor. Maybe a crate Jinma would be best for you. Good luck.

 

[SkyPup]

So far the duck tape has lasted 925 hours of extreme use with one application @ a total cost od < $0.05, if that is too much hassle for you maybe you shouldn't get any kind of tractor because this maintenance of the rubber boots will be the least of your problems..... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[JerryG]

Tip: If the rip isn't to long, it can be fixed with liquid tape. The same liquid tape that is used on electrical wiring.

 

[slowzuki]

All tractors use rubber dust boots on tie-rod ends and most of them are exposed to sticks. That is why the boot is there because dirt can get to it. Even industrial backhoes have them.

If they come off and the tie-rod end gets dirty it means it just wears out faster. Maybe wrap some duct before starting your work so the duct tape gets torn up first.

 

[jrepp]

simonmeridew: Thanks for the tip on changing the dust boot. I have almost destroyed my threads by using the hammer method while replacing two ripped boots.

 

[Highbeam]

If you want (or need) to use a hammer instead of a picklefork to unseat a tie rod the proper method is to leave the nut a few turns on the threaded tie rod end shaft and pound on the nut. The nut will protect the threads from impact damage and mushrooming. Use the nut to reseat the tie rod end as it tightens.

 

[_RaT_]

<font color="blue"> The nut will protect the threads from impact damage and mushrooming </font>

Depends on how hard you have to pound. The thin nut easily distorts the threads if your not careful. I have had success using a air hammer with a flat head to work it loose.