grsthegreat
Super Star Member
Door # 3 sounds good to me.
mine took 30 seconds to make from scrap steel. slips right over after removing rubber knob.
Door # 3 sounds good to me.
It looked to me on the DK series it would be easy to drop your hand off of the FEL joystick, and it kinda falls on the SCV just below. That is what I was thinking, is that how it is for you? any trouble to close the grapple jaws pretty quickly, and then curl and lift the load with the FEL control again?. I am not saying the 3rd function is not ideal, because I believe it is, but I was thinking you could get by pretty well with the rear remote SCV control because it is located pretty conveniently. But you have actually done it, do you have a hankering for the 3rd function control on the stick?
James K0UA
not really. actually this set up works very slick for me. I do controls by feel only. never have to look at controls.
some day when im retired and board i may try some other option.... maybe
thats used for my loader mounted snowblower in the winter. i remove control after snow season
My thoughts on this is why not start with the rear remotes, run from the rear remotes with a 6 foot hoses up to the area where the loader starts, use couplers to continue on with hoses out to the torque tube of the loader, these hoses would be tie wrapped to the existing loader hoses, so now you can still remove your loader easily. AND also if you decide to install a third function valve it would go in the area of the couplers and you could likely re-use the longer loader mounted hoses for the hookup to the electric/hydraulic valve. So you are out 2 six foot hoses from the remotes to the loader post if you decide to go with the 3rd function idea.. Not a lot a money. And should you get along fine with using the rear hookup and manual control valve already on your tractor.. Well you are done and a happy camper.. Thats my 2 centavos.
James K0UA