Grapple Grapple clamp preasure

[dirt clod]

Firefighter I would start with a preasure guage on the cyclinder. Need to check the preasure on both ports when it is closed. I think if you post those numbers someone can help. Would most likely need a guage and a tee fitting so you can preasure at the cylinder. The fitting on my cylinder is 3/8 npt, might be same as yours.

 

[kennyd]

Firefighter I would start with a preasure guage on the cyclinder. Need to check the preasure on both ports when it is closed. I think if you post those numbers someone can help. Would most likely need a guage and a tee fitting so you can preasure at the cylinder. The fitting on my cylinder is 3/8 npt, might be same as yours.

That is a good start...

 

[dirt clod]

Northland my problem is I had hoses made to long. Guess it is better than too short. Had them secured with zip ties thinking if they got hung on something the ties would break and give slack. Brush made quick work of breaking them. Was trying to figuire out how to attach springs to hoses so they stay tucked against the tractor and then coil out only as much as needed when bucket is moved/curled. I have not made mounts as of yet for the quick disconects as I want to plan for this, or could someone just tell me how to? Sure would cut down on some of the brain strain

 

[kennyd]

I have not made mounts as of yet for the quick disconects as I want to plan for this, or could someone just tell me how to? Sure would cut down on some of the brain strain

Sure...

A peice of angle iron , 2 1/2" or 3" would be perfect-clamp, bolt,or weld to FEL frame. Then in that piece mount BulkHead fittings to terminate the hoses and hold the QD's.

 

[Rara Avis]

OK, now you've got me wondering what's wrong with my grapple. I also have very little clamping pressure. It is a Tatro grapple and I love it, but it has little clamping force. I thought it was the 2x6 cylinder. I am running the grapple off my dealer installed rear remote. It is a Factory Remote. Any ideas?


I'm stupid when It comes to hydraulic jargon. The tractor is a Kubota M4800. I have a Bushhog M346 Loader that was installed by the dealer. The tractor has an open center hydraulic system (I don't know what this means?).
Chris

I'll start with the hydraulic jargon...
Open center circuits use pumps which supply a continuous flow. The flow is returned to tank through the control valve's open center; that is, when the control valve is centered, it provides an open return path to tank and the fluid is not pumped to a high pressure. Otherwise, if the control valve is actuated it routes fluid to and from an actuator and tank. The fluid's pressure will rise to meet any resistance, since the pump has a constant output. If the pressure rises too high, fluid returns to tank through a pressure relief valve. Multiple control valves may be stacked in series. This type of circuit can use inexpensive, constant displacement pumps.

Closed center circuits supply full pressure to the control valves, whether any valves are actuated or not. The pumps vary their flow rate, pumping very little hydraulic fluid until the operator actuates a valve. The valve's spool therefore doesn't need an open center return path to tank. Multiple valves can be connected in a parallel arrangement and system pressure is equal for all valves.

 

[IslandTractor]

Northland my problem is I had hoses made to long. Guess it is better than too short. Had them secured with zip ties thinking if they got hung on something the ties would break and give slack.

I have found that it's useful to put a single loose coil in the excess hose held by a very loose zip tie and then use a bungee cord through the zip tie to the quick connect attachment point. By using the appropriate length bungee, you can maintain sufficient tension to keep the hoses out of harms way but allow them to stretch when you do a full dump with closed grapple so you don't put undue tension on the hoses themselves.

Obviously it is best not to have much excess hose but when measuring make sure you take into account the max hose needed which is full dump and closed grapple position.

It also helps to contain the hoses in a protective sheath as that will help some in preventing snags.

 

[Northland]

My hoses are the right length but I really need to make up what kennyd suggested. First I am going try Island's bungee cord suggestion though.

I have been using this stuff, with both hoses inside one protective sleeve(s)

SPIRAL GUARD Plastic Protective Coil (NFSGX)

I tie it off with heavy zip ties all the way from the loader valve kit to where the QD hoses connect to the grapple cylinder

 

[IslandTractor]

My hoses are the right length but I really need to make up what kennyd suggested. First I am going try Island's bungee cord suggestion though.

I have been using this stuff, with both hoses inside one protective sleeve(s)

SPIRAL GUARD Plastic Protective Coil (NFSGX)

I tie it off with heavy zip ties all the way from the loader valve kit to where the QD hoses connect to the grapple cylinder

The Bungee cord idea assumes you have the quick connects firmly attached to the torque tube as kennyd suggested. If you don't then put another zip tie or two on the torque tube to hold the connectors in place there and attach the bungee cords to another zip tie on the torque tube. On my CK20 I never got around to fabricating/installing a permanent quick coupler anchor so I just kept the QCs attached to the torque tube with big zip ties and small dacron lines.

The coil stuff looks like it will work. Most people use the "nylon protective sleeve" material also sold by discount hydraulics (same website).

 

[3RRL]

I used live swivels and short hoses for Loretta's grapple. Made my own bulkhead mounts and brackets.
Her QD's are not on the torque tube, but on the quick attach tube so she can use the QA mount for other "up front" hydraulic attachments.