Grease Testing

dlauffenburger · Feb 21, 2012

Okay, i know this subject can cause a lot of arguments so i tried doing a search for previous posts but the last post i found was from 2007/2008 so it is probably out dated.

We just recently purchased a new tractor w/loader and i am looking for one GP grease to use on the tractor and loader. The Car Quest Lithium grease my father had bought in the past seems really thin and tends to breakdown with little heat and pressure.

During my web search i saw a few posts stating that a Aluminum base grease is better than lithium for GP use and will stay put in the Loader pivot pins better. Most grease sites you visit will tell you that their grease is the best and show you a chart comparing their products to everyone else with their own test results.

Is there an independent agency that test greases and post results on the web to review or are we stuck just trying seveal greases ourself and picking what we think is the best.

Any recommendations/comments are apprecieated.

Dave

crashz · Feb 21, 2012

I feel that any grease used on equipment like a loader or backhoe is pretty much going to be the same. The reason for that is dirt and water can get into the joints very easily. Grit and dust will do the majority or wear to the pins and bushings. Therefore regular "flushings" of grease will prevent nearly all of the wear.

With that said, I'm lazy and would rather have only one type of grease on hand. So I pick whats best for the sealed joints in my trucks, and stick to that. In that case, I like a good moly grease with a Timken load test of at least 80 lbs, but better would be 100 lbs. The soap base doesn't bother me much as its job is to hold the lubricant, but I try to stick with one type to avoid incompatibility.

But no matter the testing, miracle greases, ect, there is no subtitute for regular greasing and removal of contaminants by greasing.

I guess my point is this: Just like oils, try not to over-think it. Just use a quality product and perform the maintenance at least to the minimum requirements. Over-greasing (unless a sealed joint!!!!!) is not harmful. Lack of grease is the reason for loose pins and bushings, not necessarily the type use.

Diamondpilot · Feb 21, 2012

I agree. I keep two greases on hand for about 100 pieces of equipment. The basic grease is Super Tech grease in the blue tube sold at WalMart for around $1.50 per tube. I buy it by the case and use it for general lube points. I like to pump it over full and clean the old grease the pushes out.

The other grease I use is Pennzoil Marine grease sold at auto parts stores and Menards for $3.00 per tube. I buy it 6 or so at a time for marine applications and high speed spindle bearings and trailer bearings.

Chris

Farmerford · Feb 21, 2012

I buy Caterpillar Brand 5% Moly grease from the local Cat dealer, by the case of 12 tubes, NGLI #2. It is not much more expensive than the other brands (nonbrands?). About the only things it might not be suitable for are high speed, tight clearance, ball and roller bearings, in electric motors, for example.

I think the John Deere brand 3% moly is probably just as good, and it is available at the John Deer dealer by the tube.

Both Caterpillar and John Deere are usually quite competitive on pricing for items that, in theory at least, have aftermarket substitutes. Although their brand is no guarantee of quality, considering that most of their sales are to purchasers of their expensive equipment, many of whom keep careful maintenance records, it seems unlikely they would sell a defective product.

moored4 · Feb 21, 2012

crashz said:
................................................................................................................ there is no subtitute for regular greasing and removal of contaminants by greasing.
............................................................................................................................ Lack of grease is the reason for loose pins and bushings, not necessarily the type use.

X2 Well said! :thumbsup:

dlauffenburger · Feb 22, 2012

Gentlemen,

Thank You for your input. I will probably just try some of the moly greases and see what works.

The Car Quest grease we currently have just seems to soft and does not seem to stay where you put it.

Thanks again,
Dave

Ken45101 · Feb 22, 2012

Rather than varying back and forth, I just got a case of Deere's Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease. Seeing how they rate the skid steer for 50 hours between greasing the pins, it must stick pretty well and their application chart looks pretty good:

ｷ Ideal in rolling-contact applications

ｷ -15 to 350ｰF (-26 to 177ｰC)

ｷ For high-temperature, extreme-pressure conditions

ｷ Used for initial lubrication at the factory in U-joints and axle bearings

ｷ For excellent protection in corrosive and wet conditions

ｷ Compatible with most other types of grease

ｷ Excellent for all-purpose applications, especially those requiring a severe-duty grease

ｷ Our best multi-purpose grease

Deere's webpage
https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/8180_fb_GreaseSpecialMultiPurpose.htm#_Special-purpose_HD_moly compares their different offerings, which I find useful.

Ken

dlauffenburger · Feb 22, 2012

Ken,

thanks for the response and link. I initially was think about using the JD Polyurea but i read on the net that Polyurea grease were not compatible with other greases and mixing them would cause the two greases to harden.

It is interesting that the JD site says that their Polyurea is compatable with most greases.

Thanks again,
Dave

Mace Canute · Feb 22, 2012

As far as recommendation of a good all purpose grease, I'd have to say Texas Refinery Corporation 880 Crown and Chassis grease. It's a VERY good grease and surpasses most others on the market. I use their grease, oil and fuel treatment...all very high quality.

Compatability chart from The Skinny on Grease Compatibility