3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
In my business I am constanly removing broken bolts, pipes, zerks etc. I have tried every method suggest with some success but prefer the e-z-outs.
The e-z-outs I have are 5 flute LH twist. The flute length over the body diameter is minimal and designed to keep part expansion to a minimum. It allows just enough engagement to extract the steel or non-ferrous part. Tapping in a square nail or a file handle may cause more expansion. In using a left handed drill bit, it also has to be tapped in first if the part is stuck good and tight. Otherwise you'll drill a left handed hole in it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I generally drill a hole into the stuck part for the easy out. The trick is to cool the stuck part faster than the parent material around it. The thermal expansion (and shrinkage) of a tubular part is much greater than the mass of the parent material around it. Same with non-ferrous parts such as brass or aluminum. Their rate of thermal conductivity is as much as 10 times that of steel. In these cases it is very minimal but nevertheles effective.
The trick I've found to work best is to cool the (now partially hollow) part with Liquid Wrench and an ice cube and then remove it. It may shrink up to a thousands or so depending on its diameter. It then becomes much easier to remove. This is especially helpful when removing tapered threads (NPT) to reduce the contact surface even a little. I've spent way too many hours carbide drilling and edm'ing holes in stuck parts and this works best for me.
Hope that helps?
The e-z-outs I have are 5 flute LH twist. The flute length over the body diameter is minimal and designed to keep part expansion to a minimum. It allows just enough engagement to extract the steel or non-ferrous part. Tapping in a square nail or a file handle may cause more expansion. In using a left handed drill bit, it also has to be tapped in first if the part is stuck good and tight. Otherwise you'll drill a left handed hole in it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I generally drill a hole into the stuck part for the easy out. The trick is to cool the stuck part faster than the parent material around it. The thermal expansion (and shrinkage) of a tubular part is much greater than the mass of the parent material around it. Same with non-ferrous parts such as brass or aluminum. Their rate of thermal conductivity is as much as 10 times that of steel. In these cases it is very minimal but nevertheles effective.
The trick I've found to work best is to cool the (now partially hollow) part with Liquid Wrench and an ice cube and then remove it. It may shrink up to a thousands or so depending on its diameter. It then becomes much easier to remove. This is especially helpful when removing tapered threads (NPT) to reduce the contact surface even a little. I've spent way too many hours carbide drilling and edm'ing holes in stuck parts and this works best for me.
Hope that helps?
