Grease

[Sailorcrew]

I went to VIP today for a grease gun and grease. Bought the Lubrimatic brand, LMX The "Red" Grease. When I got home and looked at the owner's manuel, it states that a Moly EP grease should be used for the loader. No mention of grease type on the tractor (L3010). What are your thoughts? Any preferences, does the Moly EP really make a difference? Thanks, David

 

[Knight9]

David,

Not sure if it makes a difference, but figured since it was in the manual I would buy it. I hunted around by phone to fine high pressure Moly grease. Did find some and I've been using it. Doubt it would hinder any warranty work if you didn't use it, but I figured why take the chance!!

Kevin

 

[JonSpinosa]

A moly grease is the best grease we can use for our Kubota equipment. Moly has been proven to adhere the best to metallic surfaces such as the pins in the loaders, etc. The better the grease adheres to the surfaces the less wear the equipment will suffer.

 

[treeboone]

here's some tidbits on molybdenum I picked up. It has many uses, some being- paint pigment, trace element in toothpaste, alloying steel and lends high temperature qualities to bearings. The Germans figured out it made tough steel and used it for amour plate in WW1, Jet engines would not have been possible without moly. It is used in many lubrication applications, and is famous for withstanding high temperatures. As a lubricant it impregnates steel and is effective even if it appears to be wiped off. I suspect Kubota recommends it because many owners neglect the maintenence of their equipment (not likely readers of this board ) out of ignorance or whatever reason. At least by using moly, there is some chance of retained protection. I was also curious about the specification for the front axle, where either of the UDT's OR 80-90 wt gear oil can be used. When I asked why not a specific requirement, the dealer shrugged his shoulders and replied something to the effect of- "use Yak urine if you want, as long as you put something in there."
Anyway, back to moly, neglect is the main reason I believe it is recommended. Most of these tractors don't generate enough power (I can see the smoke now) to really generate "extreme pressure" or heat that makes moly a necessity (note, I said most.) I grease regularly, and use Shell Retinax HD2, on loader and tractor as well as anything else I need grease on. I think you should use what the book recommends, I am just explaining why I do what I do.

It would be wise NOT to use moly where it is NOT specifically recommended.

It is not a magic lubricant because it has certain qualities, it can create nasty surprises. In some cases where there are dissimilar metals it has been known to gall badly. I don't know all the specifics on this, but I do know it happens. Competition shooters used moly lube on .45 colt automatics with alloy frames, and got bad galling as a result. I have seen it in other places also, the metal digs and smears, like trying to grade sand with a nice size rock caught under your bucket.

 

[Sailorcrew]

Thanks guys for the posts. Treeboone: where do you get the Shell Retinax HD2 grease and it seems that you also use this on the tractors fittings too, not just on your loader. Thanks, David

 

[treeboone]

I would check the automotive section of Walmart, Kmart, discount auto supply houses first. Chances are you will find a good Lithium base grease or Molybdenum grease there. The best selection of greases, oils and filters can usually be found in the phone book under "oils-distributors" or something similar to that. Chevron and Shell are big out west, but most big name oil companies offer high quality products also. Chevron offers a couple of greases with Molybdenum. They also offer a synthetic all season hydraulic fluid that I strongly suspect Kubota relabels as Super UDT. Chevron motor oil is highly regarded in commercial use, and I use Delo 400 in 10W-30 (it is mostly seen in 15W-40, but jobbers usually carry 10W-30 if you ask for it) It is one of the few 10W-30 weights that also carries the highest commercial (diesel) API rating.
Shell makes a moly grease as well as their Retinax line and has an excellent line of Aviation products. If you have a tough time finding a jobber, you might try air fields and farm supplys. I think the last case of 10 tubes of Retinax cost me 17 bucks in Spokane, Wash. Please dont feel that this is the best grease available! It is more important to use a good quality grease, use it often and keep clean grease in your fittings. Buy 20 bucks worth and you will have enough for years. The reason I buy a case is to always have it on hand. It is very easy to buy one stick at a time, then when it runs out, can you remember what kind it was?? MOST lithium soap base greases are compatable, as are motor oils (this has not always been true) but it is not a good practice to do so. If you use the same good grease regularly, you will have less wear and problems than if you buy the latest and different miracle grease everytime you need a stick.

 

[jdkid]

Hi ya
has the loader got bushes in the pin holes??????? my seeddrill has bushes where the drag arms hang off ,ok the bushes are glasher (?) bushes (kinda look like brass with dimples) now ya must use moly in them !! soap/clay grease is a waste of time and money in there .but like treeboone moly is not the be all and end all, for pto's ,tie rods ,etc etc i use val-plex ep (valoline ?)

 

[rbargeron]

I think the name "Moly" grease got shortened from "molibdenum disufide grease". Molybdenum disufide forms little near-spherical balls and acts like an anti-friction bearing (within limits). The contact force under the tiny little "ball bearings" is high so it can cause galling on metals that are susceptible to it - stainless steel alloys for instance, which have much nickel content (soft).

The original product "Moly-Coat" was hailed as a superior lubricant for hardened steel shafts in plain journals. Our Kubota loader pins are plain dead-soft steel so won't benefit as much - but shouldn't gall either.