Great Looking Welds

[DieselPower]

As stated previously, keep your speed down, use the correct current setting and practice, practice, practice.

Want some welds that look like they were laid by the welding god's themselves? Buy some high tensile strength stainless steel rod's. I use a stainless steel rod made by KAR and called their Blue Max rod line that I use to weld steel to stainless and to weld steel to steel when I need a super strong weld. They melt like butter and it's almost impossible to get a poor weld with these thing's, vertical, horizontal, dirty, clean, just doesn't seem to matter. Cost more but they are worth it for critical welds. All welding rod manufacturers have rods like these by different names. They do not use the normal rod numbering system since their tensile strength goes beyond the normal 4 digit rod coding system. Most have a 100-160,000 PSI tensile. strength.

 

[Glowplug]

I had all but purchased a Lincoln 180 MIG unit for small projects and repairs around the farm. I dunno tho. This thread makes me want to consider a stick welder. Sounds like more of a sexy art than flux cored wire welding.

 

[fattyfat1]

as a pipefitter who welds and works with the best welders in the trade, i gotta say you guys have great advice. an old timer once told me "you gotta burn 10,000 rods to be a good stick welder" he was right! practice is key. really clean the heat affected area well, paint, grease etc. can migrate into the weld zone while you are welding causing porosity, incomplete penetration, lack of fusion, and harmful fumes. more ginding during prep means alot less grinding later. get a cheap rod oven, or stick your rod in the oven for an hour or so to dry it out. even sealed in a can it has more moisture in it than you want, once that can is open, it pulls moisture from the air causing the above problems. you definetely sound like you're on the right track, good luck, and remember, all welds are not flat, and rod acts different when welding uphill, downhill, or overhead. practice all of these positions so you know what to expect out in the field.
Trev

 

[Tom_Veatch]

I want to thank all of you for the good, practical advice. I've burned a few more rods since my original post on this subject, and although I'm not laying down welds that look like a "row of dimes", there was one bead today that looked like there may be a dime in there somewhere. But I sure ain't ready to take any certification tests.

The "slow down" comments have been especially beneficial. But, I've learned there's a happy medium between too fast and too slow. I've got a drill press for those times I want 3/4" holes in a part . But, I was able to make several passes (with considerably lower amperage) and fill in the hole. After grinding and filing it smooth, it's hard to tell there was ever a hole there. Wouldn't trust it for anything I really cared about, but at least its cosmetically OK.

Everything I've been playing with is 1/8 mild steel angles, flat stock and square tube. I've been using 1/8 6011 and 3/32 6013 Lincoln rods. Any suggestions about what amperages might be appropriate for that? (100+ amp and real slow travel = 3/4" hole in 1" square tube. YIKES!)

Thanks again, but please don't stop the words of wisdom!

 

[Lynkage]

I was finding last night on some 1/8" angle that about 70-90 setting on my Lincoln 225 buzz box w/ 3 32 7018 was just about right. I was finding that was about right for 60xx rod as well. If the metal was thicker then you will need to turn it up a bit. I also found that 1/8" is about the thinnest metal I would try to use a stick on as well.

I was able to lay a few good welds w/7018 last night!!

I do recommend trying some 7018 as I have been told "if you can weld 7018 you will be better at almost everything"

 

[Egon]

Just a word of warning: Just about the time you figure your getting pretty good is the time you become dangerous and step out of the metal niche you have been working in. Then everything changes and it's back to square one.

Please note: I do not weld

 

[Tom_Veatch]

Just a word of warning: Just about the time you figure your getting pretty good is the time you become dangerous and step out of the metal niche you have been working in. Then everything changes and it's back to square one.

Please note: I do not weld

Oh, I'm a long way from getting anywhere close to thinking I'm "getting pretty good". Right now, I'm thinking that anyone who would even consider asking me to do any welding for them is a certifiable candidate for those guys in the white coats!

But, seriously, your caution is well taken.

I've heard there are four stages to learning about anything.
1. You don't know what you don't know. (Beginning Apprentice)
2. You know what you don't know. (Advanced Apprentice)
3. You know what you know. (Journeyman)
4. You don't know what you know. (Master and true expert)

Right now, I'm real deep into Stage 1!

 

[RonR]

HI Tom,

I've migrated to almost 100% usage of 6013, 1/8" rod, set about 120 on the old lincoln. For thicker stuff, I'll go up to 5/32" 6013 running at 135 amps.

For me, on semi clean metal, the 6013 lays down a nicer bead.

If I have painted steel and/or need deeper penetration, I'll use 6011. I can't normally get as good a bead with 6011.

Thin stuff I have burn through issues, but use the 3/32 6013 at 75-90. You can't daudle on the thin stuff without burning through.

Not sure where you get your steel, but the Yard Store usually has a good assortment of nearly new steel. If you buy a 20ft stick, they'll make one cut free so you can haul it in a pickup. Or you can buy just a length of what you want.

I have an ever growing spread of steel under the wife's car in the garage, much to her chagrin............

Be sure to post pics of what you build................. If it has poor welds, don't do close ups. Or, post pics of any substandard welds and guys here can offer tips on what you might have done better at...................

Ron

 

[Highbeam]

With 1/8" base metal you are going to have trouble with the 1/8" electrodes. There is a lot of heat associated with a 220 volt arc welder on thick rods, so it is not the right combination for this thin stuff. If you can lay a decent weld on 1/8" thick base metal then you can do good welds with 3/8" plate.

The above is to say that you would do better with thinner rods for 1/8" base metal.


I have filled in my share of burn throughs too.