Guages Work - Lights Do Not

[KoonHunter51]

10:35 pm here & l have been on this light deal over 4 hours
2003 Farm Pro 2430 All the guages work, battery charges, starts great, but no lights
The fuse box has 10 fuses 5 over 5
5 lower fuses all will light up my tester
Upper 5 fuses have no power
EDIT; Upper 5 fuses are dummy, no wiring connected
Light switches are the older pull type, l think they are good except the 3-way toggle for signal, horn works
I did find the flasher had been cut open/mutilated for some reason ? (See Pic)
Wiring diagram l have is not good, & does not show readable fuse connections
Pictures of Fuse Box, ground point (Under Dash) & heat rail wire
The dummy side of the fuse box must have been for other/add-ons electrical uses
I first thought prior wiring guru had grounded wrong, but green wire goes to tach & it works
Edit; As you can see only one wire (3 contacts, 1 wire) to a glow plug, does rail suffice for contact to other 2 glow plugs ? If needed, I'll remove rail & clean it & hook up wire to 3 instead of one
(Can't get knurled nut off middle glow plug, whole stem is screwing out ?)
Ignition may be my problem, as it looks like a wire has been cut coming from switch
As for the flasher, will any 12v flasher work or is it Chinese/Jinma specific
I have several flashers here & even found a 12/14v toggle (On/Off/On)
The 2 pull switches seem to be fine but I have no idea what sequence does what
Both are 3-way (Off/On/On)
I will start tracing wires tomorrow

David

 

[Affordable]

Jump the light switch wires around the switch to see if its the switch or not, also one of the old pull type switchs has a glass fuse on it ? Did you check that ?

https://affordabletractorsalesco.co...picid=1264&category=ZL-20&sub_category=&scid=

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[KoonHunter51]

Thanks Tommy,
Fuse in switch is not blown. Both pull switches are 3 stage off/on/on
I'm gonna try to find wire going to fuse box to see if it's spliced or if 2 wires go to box.
EDIT; 1 Power wire to fuse box, top fuses are dummy
Bottom of fuse box has power;
Top of fuse box (Lights) is dead EDIT; Not lights, these top 5 fuses are dummy or spares, no wire connected
I have found a couple loose wires under dash & I will trace them down
David

 

[greg_g]

Individual gauges? or cluster gauge?

//greg//

 

[KoonHunter51]

Individual Gauges, Lights are pull-type or toggle
I was thinking about switching the light switches to the newer rocker panel, but ?

 

[Rich Waugh]

If you want/need to replace your switches, I would not recommend going to the rocker type - they are generally not very weatherproof at all. If I was going to upgrade my switches I'd go with good Cole-Hersee marine toggle switches. They definitely cost more but they hold up to the elements ten times better.

 

[s219]

If you want/need to replace your switches, I would not recommend going to the rocker type - they are generally not very weatherproof at all. If I was going to upgrade my switches I'd go with good Cole-Hersee marine toggle switches. They definitely cost more but they hold up to the elements ten times better.

I've had good luck with marine rockers so far. They seem to have a rubber membrane layered between the rocker and the guts.

 

[KoonHunter51]

Thanks about the info on marine switches.
I do nor foresee any night use with the tractor, but I think in NC you have to have lights on farm vehicles if on road.

I did find out the top 5 fuses in the box are just dummies or spares.
There are no wires connected to them
So, I'm starting at the battery & cleaning & tightening all the contacts
Negative cable at battery is in bad condition, I'll replace
David

 

[KoonHunter51]

Rusted Knurl Nut on middle glow plug will not turn, complete stem is screwing out
Check edits on first post
Pictures added
David

 

[greg_g]

Before installing new negative cable, grind down to bare metal where it bolts to the frame. Get a tube of dielectric silicone grease and slather it on the freshly cleaned metal, both sides of the cable lug, then over the top once it's bolted in place. That will stave off rust and corrosion. The grease should skin over in 24 hours, so - given time to cure - there should be no problem with dirt/chaff/etc sticking there.

I don't recognize those two bent things in the first post. Glow plugs should come out like really skinny spark plugs. Take care to ensure little copper crush washer comes out too. You'll get new ones with new GPs, and you don't want a new washer on top of an old one.

//greg//