The "bottom" of the closet ring (the part that holds the 2 bolts) is supposed to sit on TOP of finish floor.
The dirty arm, or, the trap arm that the closet ring attaches to HAS to be absolutely SOILD. If not, when you tighten the closet bolts, it pulls up on the trap arm and squishes the wax out.
I usually try to get a 2x4 block ON TOP of the trap arm and NOT try to plumbers tape the pipe "down". Yes you can plumbers tape the pipe "down" but ya gotta do it so there is NO FLEX, SOLID, heavy gauge tape, #10 screws minimun and throw away the silly drywall screws.
I would recommend you cut off that clost bend, install anew, strap it up, lay the floor, set a new ring AND SCREW THE RING TO THE FLOOR w/ brass wood screws. The wood around the clost ring should be a tight fit, cut w/ precision. The wood floor needs to be SOLID or the toilet will flex up and down, which in turn violates the wax seal, which leads to sewer gases making the family sick. Calculate teh weight of a 250lb man, the toilet, the water in the toilet all on less than 2 square feet of floor! That tub, you need support for it to!
A properly installed closet bend ONLY requires a simple bowl wax, NOT an ANTI LEAK #50 fix all because it was not done right from the start wonder wax. If done right just a simple bowl wax will last decades. The toilet MUST be dapped to the floor as well to prevent fluids from getting under the toilet, which in turn festers and stinks, and can make people sick.
I have seen it time and time again, I see substandard plumbing and I ask, is anyone here ill a lot? I get a LOT of posative yes's,
I have headaches a lot (they say) etc, IT IS SEWER GAS's, some of which have no odor, but still are BAD for you.
Now is a good time to move that toilet water to the left side as well, while your at it, fill the tub to OVER the overflow and inspect the waste and overflow for leaks as well as the tub spud.
Pay me now, or pay me later...
