Had a Farmall 400 thrown in to land purchase for free

[mongo001]

First step is to get it running, with all the recommended steps to get there. If it runs good, then I'll check to see if it travels around as intended.

I don't NEED this tractor, but it wouldn't hurt to have it around. I have a little JD 2305 that gets most of the work done around here.

If it runs fine and travels fine, I'll clean it up, tune it up and keep it around. If I run into too many $800 fixes, then I have a decision to make.

 

[tessiers]

Isn't much 800 won't fix on that except the tires. Those old internationals only know how to run, I wouldn't waste a lot of time with new batteries ect, just haul it behind a truck to turn it over. If all the rest pans out then new battery. Only three things it needs, fuel, spark, and air. If you got all them drag it till it starts. Should be ok with hole in exhaust side for a short while but if it runs good I would look for another manifold. I do agree with checking and filling fluids before starting, but I wouldn't sink a whole lot of money into it unless you hear it run or need it, which it sounds like you don't.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Barry Bowen]

This old red iron can take on a life of its own and become a member of the family. If you get bit by red fever, well there is no cure.

You can get her going as a toy, or make it work either way they were strong tractors. I see yours does not have the fast hitch, just the draw bar. Power steering was extremely rare on those old girls. Lots of info out there on these old work horses. Farmer down the street still has an old 300, and still rakes hay with it. A 400 will suck gas once you get it going.

First just make sure she is not locked up, and then go from there.

 

[flusher]

Looks like you have a gasser there.

First thing I do when I get old iron like your 400 is to pull the plugs and crank the engine (either via the hand crank or the starter) to check for a stuck engine. If it's OK, then I get out my air compressor, and do a pressure leakdown check on each cylinder. For example, the Farmall Cub I bought last Dec had leaking exhaust valves on cylinders 1, 3 and 4 and leaking intake valve on cyl #2.

Harbor Freight has the tool you need for this test.

Search results for: 'cylinder leakage test'

This test will tell you exactly what's what with the valves, rings and block (water leaks into the cylinders). Knowing this information allows you to decide whether it's worth your while to go any further with your old hunk of iron.

Good luck.

 

[Soundguy]

If you really want it to start easily put some higher test "real" gas in. The extra buck or two total will save you a lot of headaches.Hope this helps,
Bruce

Sorry.. that's 100% bogus info!!!

'high test' gas.. IE.. higher octane is HARDER TO IGNITE. THE HIGHER THE OCTANE, THE MORE difficult IT IS TO IGNITE THE FUEL.

87 octane will fire off MUCH easier than 93. a non runner or a hard starter is the LAST thing I'd put high test in....

this is ---easilly--- researched and verified.

soundguy

 

[sandman2234]

Soundguy is correct, as the octane rating is a measurement of resistance to burn, the higher the number, the harder it is too burn.
Don't try sticking a match to it to test it though....
David from jax