Had to fix my Harbor Freight pole saw today

   / Had to fix my Harbor Freight pole saw today #11  
Slowpoke Slim:
Thanks for doing all the legwork on this failure; because of your nice write up it only took me 20 minutes to fix my saw. thanks again
 
   / Had to fix my Harbor Freight pole saw today #12  
Slowpoke have you needed to replace your chain?
 
   / Had to fix my Harbor Freight pole saw today #13  
After reading about the many quality of build problems with the Harbor Freight Pole chainsaw, i went with a SUN JOE SJ803e paid a little more but it has a bunch of good reviews, bought it at Amazon so if i don't like it i can send it back, done this with other items never a problem.
Thanking everyone who posted about the problems.
 
   / Had to fix my Harbor Freight pole saw today #14  
I'm dreaming of modding my HF Lynxx pole saw with an extension similar to:
 
   / Had to fix my Harbor Freight pole saw today #16  
I bought my Lynxx pole saw a year ago last month. I've been very pleased with it's performance, and I've used the heck out of it. I'm also quite sure I'm cutting branches bigger than it's intended to cut. Anyway, I was using it today, and it started making a shrill wining noise when I put a load on it, and the chain would stop. Take the load off, and the whine went away and the chain would run again. So I looked up the exploded assembly diagram online, and proceeded to take mine apart.

I did take a couple of pictures:

The bar/chain cover, and bar/chain are already off. And I've taken the retaining clip off that holds the washer on the chain drive sprocket. That's the retaining clip and washer sitting next to the saw.

View attachment 612829

I was certain that the gears were destroyed before I took it apart. I just assumed they must have been some cheap plastic gear set. Anyway, took the side cover off (no pic), the side cover screws are #20 torx head screws.

What I found, once I cleaned about 2 metric tons of grease off of the ring and pinion gears, was the gears were actually steel, and they were fully intact, with no teeth missing or worn down. The pinion gear is a tapered gear, and it's sitting on the motor output shaft. What I found was the pinion gear was not engaging the ring gear all the way, and I could force the ring gear to "skip" over the pinion gear by holding the motor fan (to hold the motor shaft stationary), and rotate the ring gear with my other hand.

Then I noticed that the motor mounting block that holds the motor in place in the housing, had BOTH of it's mounting screws (that screw into the front of the motor) completely backed out and sitting there loose.

Here is a side angle shot, where you can see the ring and pinion gears, and the white plastic block with the screw backed completely out of the hole.

View attachment 612830

Here is a "top down" shot. There is another screw on the underside of the pic, that was also backed completely out.

View attachment 612831

That allowed/caused the drive motor to move backwards in the housing, which caused the tapered pinion gear to disengage the ring gear.

Once I was able to remove the motor (have to do that to get a screwdriver on those 2 screw heads to tighten them down), and tighten the block back onto the motor, I was able to reinstall the motor and the pinion engagement seemed fine.

I reassembled the saw, packing a bunch of grease back into the gears before putting side covers back together, and it works normally again. I used it for several hours of run time after the repair, and it seems to run fine with no other issues or noises.

On hind sight, I think I probably should have cleaned the 2 screws off that had backed out, and put some thread locker on them before retightening them. There is a lock washer on each one, and a flat washer also (may be able to see them in the pic), but they did back out once already. I did tighten them "about enough", so we shall see. If it happens again, I will definitely put some blue, or even red loctight on them before I reassemble again.

Anyway, hope this helps if anyone else finds the same thing happening to their saw. I was happy I didn't have any broken parts, and it was a simple repair, once I scienced out the disassembly process.
Thanks for posting this! I had the exact same problem and was able to fix today mine because of your helpful pics and explanation!!!!
 
   / Had to fix my Harbor Freight pole saw today #17  
I bought my Lynxx pole saw a year ago last month. I've been very pleased with it's performance, and I've used the heck out of it. I'm also quite sure I'm cutting branches bigger than it's intended to cut. Anyway, I was using it today, and it started making a shrill wining noise when I put a load on it, and the chain would stop. Take the load off, and the whine went away and the chain would run again. So I looked up the exploded assembly diagram online, and proceeded to take mine apart.

I did take a couple of pictures:

The bar/chain cover, and bar/chain are already off. And I've taken the retaining clip off that holds the washer on the chain drive sprocket. That's the retaining clip and washer sitting next to the saw.

View attachment 612829

I was certain that the gears were destroyed before I took it apart. I just assumed they must have been some cheap plastic gear set. Anyway, took the side cover off (no pic), the side cover screws are #20 torx head screws.

What I found, once I cleaned about 2 metric tons of grease off of the ring and pinion gears, was the gears were actually steel, and they were fully intact, with no teeth missing or worn down. The pinion gear is a tapered gear, and it's sitting on the motor output shaft. What I found was the pinion gear was not engaging the ring gear all the way, and I could force the ring gear to "skip" over the pinion gear by holding the motor fan (to hold the motor shaft stationary), and rotate the ring gear with my other hand.

Then I noticed that the motor mounting block that holds the motor in place in the housing, had BOTH of it's mounting screws (that screw into the front of the motor) completely backed out and sitting there loose.

Here is a side angle shot, where you can see the ring and pinion gears, and the white plastic block with the screw backed completely out of the hole.

View attachment 612830

Here is a "top down" shot. There is another screw on the underside of the pic, that was also backed completely out.

View attachment 612831

That allowed/caused the drive motor to move backwards in the housing, which caused the tapered pinion gear to disengage the ring gear.

Once I was able to remove the motor (have to do that to get a screwdriver on those 2 screw heads to tighten them down), and tighten the block back onto the motor, I was able to reinstall the motor and the pinion engagement seemed fine.

I reassembled the saw, packing a bunch of grease back into the gears before putting side covers back together, and it works normally again. I used it for several hours of run time after the repair, and it seems to run fine with no other issues or noises.

On hind sight, I think I probably should have cleaned the 2 screws off that had backed out, and put some thread locker on them before retightening them. There is a lock washer on each one, and a flat washer also (may be able to see them in the pic), but they did back out once already. I did tighten them "about enough", so we shall see. If it happens again, I will definitely put some blue, or even red loctight on them before I reassemble again.

Anyway, hope this helps if anyone else finds the same thing happening to their saw. I was happy I didn't have any broken parts, and it was a simple repair, once I scienced out the disassembly process.
THANKS for this post! I borrowed my brothers LYNXX and after 3 days of working it like a dog the same thing happened. I thought I broke it!! Thanks it was the exact same situation; took me an hour of searching internet but find your answer and it was GREATLY appreciated. YOU da MAN!
 
   / Had to fix my Harbor Freight pole saw today #18  
Slowpoke have you needed to replace your chain?
I realize this is an old thread, but since it's been brought back to life:
The chain is an Oregon S40, the bar that is currently on it is #100SDEA318.

However, the bar does not show up in Oregon's website anymore, which now shows a 104MLEA318 for the Lynxx bar. Don't know where the 100SDEA318 bar disappeared to. I looked up the information on model numbers and it seems the 100 is the bar length and gauge and the next 3 letters identify the nose and the A318 is the motor mount end of the bar. You'll need a different chain if you use the new bar.

Chainsaw Bar definition
 
 
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