Hard Starting Brigs V-Twin 24

[L120]

Another thing with the fuel line....the 1/4" line penetrates the top of the plastic tank with a feeder tube going down in the tank. The the fuel line goes up then back down & across the frame to where you see it come out in the engine compartment.

The gas line needs to hold a vacuum of about 10" coming up & out of the tank? Looks crazy to me and probably why we have such hard starting trying to get fuel to the carb. I'm putting in a pump squezzy thingie to prime the carb. 2-years being pissed about the hard start has come to an end.

Link to the primer bulb thing I was describing...
fuel primer bulb at DuckDuckGo

 

[tomplum]

Glad the OP got it fixed up. L120: It really doesn't have to hold the fuel line full of fuel to start. (It will be at the level of the fuel in the tank anyways) The fuel level in the carb bowl will drop slightly but a good pump should take care of that in a hurry. Pop the aft pump line off, set the park brake and crank it cold to see how your pump is doing by catching some in a pan. A weak pump or fuel line deterioration can play a factor if not. Carburetor pick up tube/seal/ moth gasket replacement may help the extended crank issue cold if you have fuel delivery and a closing choke. It is taboo to use compressed air through the pump as to not damage the diaphragm. These engines should be run at least monthly, fuel stabilized etc.

 

[ray66v]

I like the primer bulb idea. :thumbsup:

Although it would be easy to flood it, if it's too big.

I'm going to try loosening the fuel cap next year, when I start it for the first time.

 

[L120]

Glad the OP got it fixed up. L120: It really doesn't have to hold the fuel line full of fuel to start. (It will be at the level of the fuel in the tank anyways) The fuel level in the carb bowl will drop slightly but a good pump should take care of that in a hurry. Pop the aft pump line off, set the park brake and crank it cold to see how your pump is doing by catching some in a pan. A weak pump or fuel line deterioration can play a factor if not. Carburetor pick up tube/seal/ moth gasket replacement may help the extended crank issue cold if you have fuel delivery and a closing choke. It is taboo to use compressed air through the pump as to not damage the diaphragm. These engines should be run at least monthly, fuel stabilized etc.

Yes sir, I understand what you are saying. I dealing with a brand new 27hp B&S. All the probs listed were about my old engine besides not starting right up this morning until I slammed the throttle up to engage the choke-O-matic. Then she fired right up like a good girl.

Like the OP, I had dealt with hard starting which was extremely frustrating and Ohcrap if the mower stalled far away from the house. Hope anything mentioned could help the OP and others. My old starting problems were a cocktail of things...battery-fuel-comp release-etc. I know what to look for now that I'm dealing with brand new shtuff. YaY

 

[ray66v]

Okay, so I am hopeful that I may have finally nailed down the problem with these.

I have a YTH2348, with a Briggs and Stratton V-twin, 23hp, that has been a problem starting. When it was new, a choke adjustment had it starting well, for a while.

The last few season, it's gotten progressively worse. During that time, I replaced all the usual parts, i.e. fuel pump, lines, filter. I also tried adding an electric fuel pump. None of that worked.

Recently, I took the intake manifold and carburetor off, to visually check the choke for damage. It looked fine.

Before reinstalling, I looked at the gaskets between the intake manifold and the heads. They didn't show an obvious sign of failure, but they also looked pretty mashed down. So, I wondered if a leaking intake gasket, or gaskets, could be the problem?

I replaced them both, and so far, it's starting right up.

$6 for both gaskets with tax.

I will update this, if it doesn't end up not solving the problem. Otherwise, consider changing these, if you are having starting issues.