HardiPlank - Pros and Cons?
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FredH
Platinum Member
Previous post mentioned that Hardi panel was more expensive than T1-11 .
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-M...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
19/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. T1-11 8 in. On-Center Fir Plywood Siding-15930 at The Home Depot
I think the above 2 links pretty much sums up that answer . 40 sheets to do my shop . T1-11 = $1598.80 . Hardi Panel = $1140.80 Saving $458
Fred H.
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-M...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
19/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. T1-11 8 in. On-Center Fir Plywood Siding-15930 at The Home Depot
I think the above 2 links pretty much sums up that answer . 40 sheets to do my shop . T1-11 = $1598.80 . Hardi Panel = $1140.80 Saving $458
Fred H.
MikeA57
Silver Member
I agree Fred. I HP'd my old house before I sold it back around the turn of the century and it was a couple of bucks cheaper than T-11 back then too. I drive by that place every once in awhile and it still looks good. The current owners recently painted it but I couldn't tell that it needed it before they did it; but then I didn't get out of the car and go up to the house. Oh yeah, if you cut it with a regular circular saw, don't. It is a mess to cut that way and it took me coughing up blood to realize that I should have been wearing a mask.
Not one of my brightest moments...
:mur:
Not one of my brightest moments...
ttriff
Silver Member
Our place built in 2003 is covered with HardiPlank.
Several weeks ago my weather station measured a wind gust of 110mph, no damage.
Given all the wild fires last summer I'm happy to have home covered with a cement fiber product.
Several weeks ago my weather station measured a wind gust of 110mph, no damage.
Given all the wild fires last summer I'm happy to have home covered with a cement fiber product.
Scotty Dive
Platinum Member
I came across this thread and I thought I would add my recent expereince with James Hardie - We bought our current house 6+ years ago with hardie board already installed. Last winter with the ice dams we had - the board alongside the roof cracked and chipped out. I called hardie and put in a claim. An inspector came out from Ohio to Ct and reviewed the problem. When he left he said I would see a final report but the reason it cracked and broke is that it was installed incorrectly. The siding was installed tight up to the roof shingles and the water had no where to go and got behind the board and then when it froze it popped the board.
About 2 weeks ago I received a call from Hardie saying they were going to warrant my claim - so I am thinking they are going to send out some materials and I will have to install.....nope. They are sending out a crew from Ohio to replace the board and fix it around every window and door and roof area that was installed incorrectly. At no cost to me. So their product cracked because it was installed incorrectly and they are eating all of the expense. Wow...I sure am impressed
About 2 weeks ago I received a call from Hardie saying they were going to warrant my claim - so I am thinking they are going to send out some materials and I will have to install.....nope. They are sending out a crew from Ohio to replace the board and fix it around every window and door and roof area that was installed incorrectly. At no cost to me. So their product cracked because it was installed incorrectly and they are eating all of the expense. Wow...I sure am impressed
beppington
Elite Member
Agreed! :thumbsup:
The T-111 here on my house in FL was installed in 1992 & is holding up just fine :thumbsup: Painted when new & then again at about 12 years old.
That said, I would definitely use Hardi Plank if I had it to do over. That stuff is awesome. I don't know if maybe it wasn't available yet in 1992, or I just didn't know about it, or maybe it was really expensive back then.
wcampbell47
Platinum Member
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We are about to build on the gulf coast which has led to more than one discussion about hardie plank. The builders I have spoken with always wrap the building in OSB first as the hardie has no structural integrity. If you break the plane of the cement covering the fiber that can void the warranty - lets moisture in which eventually damages the fiber. The weight of hardie prevents me from using it by myself - which most of my projects are done alone.
In summary - hardie has a great reputation with insurance companies because of fire retardation. By the time you add the cost of OSB and the labor to install a hardie sided building is going to be more costly than T111. The most expensive part of building smaller projects is the labor if you have to hire someone.
As for me I will stick to good old wood when working by myself. If someone is doing it for me and it makes sense insurance wise then hardie would be the choice.
In summary - hardie has a great reputation with insurance companies because of fire retardation. By the time you add the cost of OSB and the labor to install a hardie sided building is going to be more costly than T111. The most expensive part of building smaller projects is the labor if you have to hire someone.
As for me I will stick to good old wood when working by myself. If someone is doing it for me and it makes sense insurance wise then hardie would be the choice.
forgeblast
Elite Member
What if you have t111 can you install directly over that?
nhkabotab7800
Bronze Member
sure install right over t111 built in drainage chutes
FredH
Platinum Member
For a House , I would install over OSB or something similar ,( plywood , etc.. , what ever was cheapest ) , for insulation purposes .
We built a 8' x 14' lawn shed the summer of 2010 and I just nailed it straight to the studs . Siliconed each vertical seam before we stuck the next sheet up . In the gabled ends , we siliconed the horizontal seams and then on the corners , We added 4" trim on both sides so the corners were covered . Studs were placed 16" on center . No warping or sagging showing any were .
Granted , It would be easy to hit it with something and break a hole through the wall , But the same can be said for using Dry wall inside a house .
Fred H.
We built a 8' x 14' lawn shed the summer of 2010 and I just nailed it straight to the studs . Siliconed each vertical seam before we stuck the next sheet up . In the gabled ends , we siliconed the horizontal seams and then on the corners , We added 4" trim on both sides so the corners were covered . Studs were placed 16" on center . No warping or sagging showing any were .
Granted , It would be easy to hit it with something and break a hole through the wall , But the same can be said for using Dry wall inside a house .
Fred H.
