Hauling planks w/ ROP and FEL?

[marks]

So here's the situation, I need to move 100 pieces of Hardi Plank siding that is 8 inches wide and 12 feet long, and weigh 20 lbs each, up a 300' gravel road that has a 20% grade. After trying it with some 1x4, it apprears that securing a 2x10 to the ROP and FEL will keep the siding from sagging, and small bundles of 8 pieces each will do the trick. I'm using a JD 870, 28hp, with a 420 FEL. Is there anything I'm not seeing?

Thanks

 

[Kendall69]

Tou need to get a plank to have the siding sit on so as to brace the load.
If you have the width then straddle the load on the bucket.

 

[RoyJackson]

I'd find a friend with a pick up truck or trailer you can borrow.

 

[SkunkWerX]

I'd find a friend with a pick up truck or trailer you can borrow.

Yep, trailer is my recommendation. That will be a pretty dynamic load along with the increased center of gravity.

 

[daTeacha]

So you're adding at least 160 lb on top of the ROPS, extending forward to the raised bucket, going uphill, probably not straight all the way? I did something similar carrying a long extension ladder that weighed about 50 lb. with a B7100 and felt uncomfortable enough that I don't want to do it again. Just driving around with the empty bucket raised is something the owners manuals get all excited about due to the fact that it raises the center of gravity of the whole rig considerably and makes it a lot more likely that you'll tip it on it's side.

Consider fabricating some kind of bracket or rope rig that would allow you to carry the planks next to you instead of over your head, using the ROPS and loader frame as points to tie the ropes.

Another approach would be to use ropes to carry the load UNDER the tractor. Lay two ropes on the ground spaced about as far apart as your bucket and lift arms are from each other. Put some planks on the ropes. Drive over the pile until your bucket and lift arms are about above the ropes. Lower both. Tie the ropes the the bucket and lift arms. Lift each end a bit at a time until the planks are clear of the ground. Maybe run another rope around the center of the load and over the operator platform to keep it from sagging too much and then drive safely up the hill.

If you're determined to carry the load up high, at least build up to the 8 plank load slowly so you can see what it does to the stability of the tractor. I would be very reluctant to try it.

 

[VABlue]

If you have the width through the entire length of the driveway, then straddling the load across the bucket would be safer than having it up on the ROPS. Get a couple of solid boards (2x8) to rest the siding on, balance it evenly, and strap it all down on the bucket tightly. Keep the bucket as low as you can going up the drive and have plenty of ballast on the back end.

 

[SFish]

When faced with a similar hauling problem I got two pieces of 4" wide X 1.5" high X 0.25" thick channel iron from a steel shop. I drilled two holes through the channel and the bottom of the loader bucked near the edges to bolt the channel on to make a set of very inexpensive forks. I sawed bevels on the front edges. As it turned out I bolted these on several times a year for the next ten years for one project or another, especially for hauling logs. They are all bent up now, but still useful.

Steve

 

[dfkrug]

Marks, I used my tractor for a similar load while building my house.
I moved my 14-ft #9 rebars (70 lb each) using the ROPS and FEL.
Just a few at a time up a steep but safe slope. One thing I did
was use big C-clamps on the ROPS so the load could not slide
sideways. Worked great!

 

[daTeacha]

As a follow-up to SFish's comments, I have carried some pretty long -- (14 to 16 foot) and heavy green logs in that manner. I have two sets of teeth or forks for my bucket, both made up of channel iron welded to resemble a multi-prong letter E, or two E's next to each other. The shorter ones protrude about 4 inches from the cutting edge and serve as a toothbar and grabbing assist when moving brush and such. (I have a grapple on the bucket.) I use the longer ones, which protrude about 10 inches, when I'm moving logs. The same idea should work well enough for your boards. Just watch the ends when near trees and other solid stuff, and keep it low since a 12 foot wide load on a 4 1/2 wide tractor is still kind of tippy. At least that way the worst you'll do if it tips is get the ends of the planks dirty when they hit the ground.

I know we all sound kind of paranoid here, but no likes posts about guys rolling or almost rolling the tractor so we tend to be pretty cautious when giving advice on this stuff. If we were there and saw your ground and such we might do exactly what you're thinking about doing -- and we might run screaming in the opposite direction.

 

[638]

Build a sled out of 2x4s. Load them on the sled and drag sled up the road.
You may have to make more that one trip.

ron