Hauling safety

[Soundguy]

So far in the past 2 weeks I have seen 2 really bad accidents.. BOTH of them were trucks ( 3/4 or 1-ton ) hauling 18' trailers with skid steers on the back. In both cases, after the wreck, the trailer was jack-knifed an on its side.. one had the skid steer still attached.. one had it come off.. both had the trucks up off the ground or rolled over.

Soundguy

 

[kevinj]

Sooo...................how do you chain down safety?

 

[patrick_g]

Sooo...................how do you chain down safety?

Multiple chains.

Grade 70 DOT approved chains, consider larger than the minimum rating.

Good load binders (boomers) Use a scrap of single strand electrical wire or a stout string to tie the load binder lever closed (over center locking type not ratcheting.) Ratcheting are good also and do not need a safety wire.

Strong attachment points on trailer and equipment.

1. Front chains should pull forward as well as down.
2. Rear chains should pull backwards as well as down.
3. All chains should pull partially outward as well.

If you use stake pockets or similar for chain hook attachment points, pass the chain through the pocket vertically downward and then bring the hook up on the outside of the pocket and hook the hook on the top of the stake pocket. If for any reason the chain goes slack the hook will not fall away and allow the chain to wander off into the road, under a wheel, or whatever.

After securing the load and before travel down the public road, accelerate a bit, swerve a bit left and right, use your brakes a bit, and then stop and check all chains for tightness, retensioning as required. If going more than a few minutes or a few miles, stop and check the chain tension in a few minutes or miles (lather rinse repeat until you are sure the load is not shifting and then you can decrease but not eliminate your checking.)

Some folks like to attach the chains to be used on one end of the machine and then move it under its own power to tighten those chains and then use the binders to tension the chains at the other end. This elliminates the need for binders at both ends and cuts the binder count in half.

When properly snugged down you may see some deflection of the pneumatic tires. I like this. it helps keep the chains tight.

Try to remember you have a load with a high center of gravity and do not make any abrupt lane changes or take curves as fast as they are marked (yellow diamond speed advisory signs)

Don't follow closely and be prepared for people to pull in front of you and slam on their brakes. It will happen.

Pat

 

[George2615]

I've seen a couple similar wrecks here a few years ago. One bobcat was stapped down with motorcycle straps. When he hit the brakes the straps broke and the bobcat slid forward and over the tongue. On another, the load was back too far not having enough tongue weight caused the truck and trailer to fishtail out of control at highway speed. Both were lucky not to involve other vehicles and both rec'd tickets for improperly secured loads and one for towing out of class (overweight, an 8k bobcat on a 7K trailer and the truck was only rated for 6K).
Patrick's got it right for securing the load. Another thing is to make sure your truck can handle the load.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Being new at this stuff especially towing a tractor or any other heavy toy. Would fish tailing also be caused by improper braking of the trailer or towing vehicle? Poor load centering over the axles? And possibly lack of anti sway devices which would have helped questionable trailers and hitches? I see the need for the load not to shift from braking or turns. That makes sense. Of course a good old common sense of not following too close and having to hit the binders raises the Pucker factor quite a bit.
Jim

 

[JESSE1]

"If you use stake pockets or similar for chain hook attachment points, pass the chain through the pocket vertically downward and then bring the hook up on the outside of the pocket and hook the hook on the top of the stake pocket. If for any reason the chain goes slack the hook will not fall away and allow the chain to wander off into the road, under a wheel, or whatever."

I wouldn't recommend doing that. If you have another vehicle sideswipe your trailer it could break the hooks and then your load will not be tied down. The safer method is to loop the chain around the outside of the stake pocket and then either hook the chain on the stake pocket or to the chain. This way the rub rail protects the chain and hook.

 

[Defective]

I wouldn't recommend doing that. If you have another vehicle sideswipe your trailer it could break the hooks and then your load will not be tied down. The safer method is to loop the chain around the outside of the stake pocket and then either hook the chain on the stake pocket or to the chain. This way the rub rail protects the chain and hook.

Even if there's a rail, the original method still works best. Just make sure that when you bring the hook up outside the pocket, it's inside the rail. The problem with looping around the pocket instead of through it is that the rub rail is not structural. Sometimes they can be pulled away from the stake pockets.

Meanwhile, if you get sideswiped hard enough to break a grade 70 chain or hook, your trailer is probably upside down anyhow & all bets are off.

 

[kevinj]

Multiple chains.

Grade 70 DOT approved chains, consider larger than the minimum rating.

Good load binders (boomers) Use a scrap of single strand electrical wire or a stout string to tie the load binder lever closed (over center locking type not ratcheting.) Ratcheting are good also and do not need a safety wire.

Strong attachment points on trailer and equipment.

1. Front chains should pull forward as well as down.
2. Rear chains should pull backwards as well as down.
3. All chains should pull partially outward as well.

If you use stake pockets or similar for chain hook attachment points, pass the chain through the pocket vertically downward and then bring the hook up on the outside of the pocket and hook the hook on the top of the stake pocket. If for any reason the chain goes slack the hook will not fall away and allow the chain to wander off into the road, under a wheel, or whatever.

After securing the load and before travel down the public road, accelerate a bit, swerve a bit left and right, use your brakes a bit, and then stop and check all chains for tightness, retensioning as required. If going more than a few minutes or a few miles, stop and check the chain tension in a few minutes or miles (lather rinse repeat until you are sure the load is not shifting and then you can decrease but not eliminate your checking.)

Some folks like to attach the chains to be used on one end of the machine and then move it under its own power to tighten those chains and then use the binders to tension the chains at the other end. This elliminates the need for binders at both ends and cuts the binder count in half.

When properly snugged down you may see some deflection of the pneumatic tires. I like this. it helps keep the chains tight.

Try to remember you have a load with a high center of gravity and do not make any abrupt lane changes or take curves as fast as they are marked (yellow diamond speed advisory signs)

Don't follow closely and be prepared for people to pull in front of you and slam on their brakes. It will happen.

Pat

Patrick,

My comment was not how to chain safely but a response to Sound Dudes title of "HAULING SAFETY" Good info for the group however.

 

[JESSE1]

Even if there's a rail, the original method still works best. Just make sure that when you bring the hook up outside the pocket, it's inside the rail. The problem with looping around the pocket instead of through it is that the rub rail is not structural. Sometimes they can be pulled away from the stake pockets.

Meanwhile, if you get sideswiped hard enough to break a grade 70 chain or hook, your trailer is probably upside down anyhow & all bets are off.

I think I'd rather take a chance and chain around the stake pocket inside the rubrail than to have a portion of the hook or chain outside the rubrail and risk getting it hit. That's how I was taught to chain down loads of pipe and structural steel. If I'm not mistaken, that's also the way the DOT wants it done.

 

[firedog]

I think I'd rather take a chance and chain around the stake pocket inside the rubrail than to have a portion of the hook or chain outside the rubrail and risk getting it hit. That's how I was taught to chain down loads of pipe and structural steel. If I'm not mistaken, that's also the way the DOT wants it done.

I agree, perhaps the proper verbage should have been "to front or back of stake pocket" instead of outside. That's the way I do mine.

My comment was not how to chain safely but a response to Sound Dudes title of "HAULING SAFETY"

Right with you on that Kevin.
Proverbs 3 states:My son, do not forget my teaching,
But let your heart keep my commandments;
2 For length of days and years of life
And peace they will add to you.
3 Do not let kindness and truth leave you;
Bind them around your neck,
Write them on the tablet of your heart.
Perhaps we should do something similar with safety.