Have we been doing it wrong? High rpm's bad when not needed?

   / Have we been doing it wrong? High rpm's bad when not needed? #91  
If you ignore the regen light too long, or cancel it too many times, the ECM will go into a 'limp mode' and require the dealer to come out and reset it after doing the regen. I think Kubota is 3 or 4 skips.

Going too long without replacing/cleaning a clogging DPF means pretty much the same as a plugged catalytic converter as it plugs the exhaust. This can take thousands of hours though, unless you are constantly skipping regens.
That may be true with most of them. One reason I got a TYM/Kukje engine is to prevent the whole limp mode nonsense.
 
   / Have we been doing it wrong? High rpm's bad when not needed? #92  
Of course the 'genus's at the EPA don't take that into account.
They don't have to take it into account.

If someone prefers to run their diesel at a slower rpm, it's up to them to buy one that is pre-tier 4 and run it the way it was designed. That's what a lot of us do.
Or buy post tier 4 and run at high RPM.

Which design to buy is simply a market place decision; anyone can do it either way.
 
   / Have we been doing it wrong? High rpm's bad when not needed? #93  
Kukje engines won't go limp 🤣🤣
 
   / Have we been doing it wrong? High rpm's bad when not needed? #94  
I use mine almost exclusively for tillage, so load and RPM are never an issue.
 
   / Have we been doing it wrong? High rpm's bad when not needed? #96  
This is a good topic for me. I am a genuine NOOB to tractors. I bought my first tractor about 6 months ago or so... a 2023 Mahindra 5155. This is a bare bones, industrial type tractor with no bells / whistles. It does not use DEF, and has a small turbo. The 5145 and 5155 are the same tractor, only difference is the 5155 has the turbo, which gives it the 55 rated hp, over the 45 hp of the 5145.

I have right at 47 hours on it so far, using it to clear my property. I use the grapple mostly, box blade next, and bucket is the least used. It has two yellow marks on the tach, I'm assuming it's for the two different PTO settings. I typically run the tractor around the lower rpm yellow mark... or between the two. I believe it's about 1800 to 2000 rpm.

I've never had an issue with it, and the power has been perfect for me. I usually let the tractor idle for a few minutes before shutting it off. My tractor does not have a re-gen cycle nor does it use DEF, which is one reason why I chose it.

I'm still learning it, and I am very thankful for the wealth of knowledge on here.
 
   / Have we been doing it wrong? High rpm's bad when not needed? #97  
Just starting with your statement “the transaxle is the weakest link “ Is false on its own. Every tractor made, from every manufacturer, has weak and strong points. Pretty much any part failed, will put the tractor out of use.
If you open your mind up a bit, you would realize that starting batteries, followed by computer systems are the weakest link. Alternators, water pumps, fuel injectors, fuel pumps, are all much “weaker links “ in a tractor than the transmission.
Just pursue this site for failures..

And again , without knowing a specific load %, and without knowing where in the rpm range, the engine develops maximum torque, you can’t make a blanket statement that torque will go down and the transmission will last longer. That’s nonsense.
You’re also ignoring components that wear more from unnecessary rotations, such as alternators, oil seals, water pumps, camshafts, valves, valve springs, and on and on..
Wow... the parts you mention DON'T KILL THE TRACTOR. I think you know that.

We're NOT talking about a dyno pull at max power here... max engine curves have nothing to do with what is going on downstream. You can pick a high gear, pedal slow with high effort or you can pick a low gear, pedal fast with little effort... all to go the same speed.

Actually it IS a transaxle if the transmission has an integral axle.
 
   / Have we been doing it wrong? High rpm's bad when not needed? #98  
Wow... the parts you mention DON'T KILL THE TRACTOR. I think you know that.

We're NOT talking about a dyno pull at max power here... max engine curves have nothing to do with what is going on downstream. You can pick a high gear, pedal slow with high effort or you can pick a low gear, pedal fast with little effort... all to go the same speed.

Actually it IS a transaxle if the transmission has an integral axle.
The axles are in the rear end housing, the transmissions are ahead of that and often more then one.
 
   / Have we been doing it wrong? High rpm's bad when not needed? #99  
As far as plugging a DPF, there are many factors that may cause the need to regen or clean the DPF. The use of modern diesel oil that is specifically made for low ash and soot will help. Fuels formulated to be cleaner will help. Some people still add snake oil from the 1960s to their fuel (sometimes in large amounts) thinking it will help lubricity when it may be plugging the DPF. And as mentioned, how it is used will make a difference.
 
   / Have we been doing it wrong? High rpm's bad when not needed? #100  
No plugging here, don't have any to plug. Far as turbo charged engines go, I always idle mine for a few minutes after using them to let the hot side of the turbo get fresh oil to the bearing and allow it to cool off. Turbo's all have a ceramic bearing on the hot side and conventional bearing on the cold side. Learned that with big trucks and big diesels. In fact my Western Star tractor has auto shutdown after a 3 minute no load idle. New turbo's aren't cheap today.
 

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