Haying Equipment needs 101

   / Haying Equipment needs 101 #71  
Here's an (overdue) update on the current state of my haying operation.

First off, thanks to everyone for the great sharing of information and experience. Daryl... thanks so much for "un-lurking" ... I've read your post dozens of times.

About 2 weeks ago I put together my hay equipment to have at the ~40 acres or so of mixed grass hay I have.

First I got what I think is a servicable NH271 square baler ... used on the same farm since '70 or so.

Then added a NH477 7' Haybine, seems in good shape. Private sale from a hobby farmer hay guy who got a 9' in trade for hay.

Went with a NH254 rotary rake/tedder, bought from a farm equipment place.

With this equipment and my '58 AC D-14 tractor I cut, raked, and baled about 830 bales with no real issues. I suspect I made them a bit light at ~35# each. Probably cut something under 8 acres total.

Learnings:
The tractor seemed to have plenty of power and heft for all phases. It has loaded rear tires and a loader so probably weighs about 6000# all up. The hand clutch was very useful to be able to slow down when the mower or baler got loaded up. The foot clutch stops the PTO which is generally a pain.

I'm glad I went with the 7' Mower. A lot of the gates, etc. in my fields are kinda narrow so it got big in a hurry. The sickle drive bushing failed, have just put in a new one. I ended up cutting pretty slow as the grass is pretty long and tangled, this is the "first cut" probably for a while. Has been used for pasture for the past 10 years or so as far as I know. I raised the feet on the mower to leave a longer stubble which seemed to help too.

The 254 rake does a great job. Once I got it all adjusted it worked well. I generally raked 2 mower windrows into one to bale. Made big fluffy windrows, pretty much just like in the brochure! Some of my hay got rained on overnight, and the next day there was no problem picking it up again to dry. I'm very pleased that I decided to plunge to get this unit. I've never used a side delivery rake so can't really compare, but based on my experience so far I'm a big rotary proponent so far.

I think I'm settling on setting the mower to make wide "windrows", just narrowed in enough so that the tractor isn't driving on them on the next "lap". Then set up the rake so each wheel grabs a row and rakes them onto the stubble between the rows (combining two into one). This seems to move all the hay, has it spread out pretty much to dry, put flips it onto a "dry" spot.

Corners are still a challenge! Trying to find the best way for doing it for mowing (not too bad), but then keeping them clean while raking so that trying to catch the windrow with the baler is still a "work in progress" LOL.

The baler worked fine. It took about 3 bales to "get started", after that it didn't miss a tie. I think I need to give it a "tune up" as all the chain adjusters are at their max, and I think the knife needs sharpening/aligning. The hay stop (the little triangle flap in the top of the feed area) was broken when I got it. I welded up the hinge (still works) to get it going. I have a new one at the dealer I have to pick up. Likely don't really need it now! However, it looks like it want through the knife or plunger so hat can't have helped. It shook the tractor a bit, mainly while turning, but I think I had plenty of power. I was generally baling pretty slow as the windrows were pretty heavy in a lot of places. Mostly first gear hi range, some in second in the thinner spots.

I had underestimated the collecting the bales effort! I didn't have someone available to ride a wagon, and quite frankly just manoevering the baler to catch the windrows was enough work! Should mention that the AC doesn't have PS! I used my car trailer, an old pickup with a flat box, and a borrowed wagon to get a last load up before rain. The loading and unloading takes a lot of time! I'm considering getting a NH Stack Wagon, as this looks like a great solution for me. None of my fields are very far from the barns.

Subsequent to this we went looking at a used 20' elevator last weekend (so I could put some hay in the hayloft too) and ended up coming home with a IH674 tractor and a wagon too! Two tractors will help a lot during the "race" and the IH does have PS! If I mow with it, I'll have to narrow the windrows as the rear tires are considerably fatter.

The forecast is sunny again, so I'm going to cut again today. There might be thunderstorms tomorrow night, but if it gets wet I think I can fluff it up again without issues. I'd welcome experience on if this is "legit"? The grass is mixed, unfortuanatly I couldn't tell you the different kinds (yet) ... some timothy, bit of clover and some other grasses too. No alfalfa AFAIK.

I posted some pictures on MBN if you're interested. I don't seem to be able to point you at a specific post just a page of results so scroll down a bit at MBN Haying Pics for the "results" and Equipment
a page earlier in the same thread has the baler and mower pics.

Once again, thanks to everyone for all the help (both in this thread, and through PM's) that made the above possible.

If anyone has the stomach for it I have a few questions:

1. What's the "official" small square bale size and weight? If I manage to get to bale this next lot I think I'll go heavier (~45-50# maybe) for a ~38" +/- bale?

2. If rain is coming is it better to have it get wet in the bales, and stook them to dry (did that), or in a windrow and re-rake (did that too). It seemed to me that both methods worked. The stuff that avoided rain altogher was the easiest though /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

3. I'd welcome any opinions on the NH Stack Wagons too (although we can use the new topic that just started for that too).

Thanks again, I hope this helps someone else who's starting out. Happy to try to answer any questions.

cheers, Andrew
 
   / Haying Equipment needs 101 #72  
Go to this site, it list a lot of the common grasses and legumes as well as a ton of pictures to help you learn and identify them.

Purdue Ag's site

As for bale size, that depends on your area. My customers would complain about my bales when they were 45-50 pounds and wanted them lighter. I asked how light and they said 30-35 pounds. Most of my customers are women and older people so I understand why they want lighter bales. Length, I want about 36" long or longer but with a light bale you have to keep the bales shorter for good tension. Short bales don't stack as well as a long bale.
 
   / Haying Equipment needs 101 #73  
NEVER let your bales get rained on. Even though you think they are dry they never fully dry once they are baled. You run a significant risk for fire. That is the biggest scare for square bales.

If you are using the bales yourself then I would do 50-80lbs. All of ours are 80 lbs. Ones we do to sell are 35#. People really complain about heavier bales. We sell by the ton so it doesn't make any difference to us. '

What do you want to know about the hay wagons? Are you talking about the automatic ones that pick up the hay in the fields or the ones that run off of a chute on the baler?
 
   / Haying Equipment needs 101 #74  
Banjo,

I like 70-80 lb bales for squares. If you are looking at bale wagons they have a hard time picking up small lightweight bales. The weight and tightness of the bale makes them pickup much easier. Regarding NH bale wagons, I much prefer the 2 wide models (1032 & 1036) more manuverable and much easier to back into tight spots. I have the 1036 model and my barn doors are a touch over 14 ft and it clears with room to spare.

As far as cutting the grass, I think I'd wait for a dry spell, if possible. Grass hay don't like rain. I almost think a light rainstorm 1/4 inch or so is harder on grass than it is on Alfalfa. And I agree with Cowboydoc about the hay getting rained on in the bale, it never really dries out that well.

Best of luck and keep us updated.
 
   / Haying Equipment needs 101 #75  
Thanks for the info guys.

Your 80# bales ... are they the "small" square ones 14x18, or bigger 16x18 ones? What length? Just trying to get a feel for the density.

Good feedback on the bale wagons. It had seemed to me that the 3 wide ones are getting pretty big machines. Given the size of our operation, and the fact that all the fields are pretty close to the barns, the smaller capacity per trip shouldn't really be any issue. It's the OHIO (Only Handle It Once) thing that I'm looking for!

It would be nice to avoid rain, but seeing as I'm trying to do this so late, I'm kinda sure my 5 sunny days in a row chances are likely gone. Whatever I get is a bonus.

Thanks for the grass pics ... now I know I do have some orchard grass ... not sure of all the others ... have to study more.

Tuned up the haybine with 20 or so new teeth and a new sickle drive bushing. Towed it with the "new" IH674 and was cutting up a storm last night :). The haybine was really cutting and *much* quieter, and the PS on the tractor made the corners a treat rather than a chore. Made a great end to what had been a lousy day (for other reasons).

Here's another quest for opinions ... for the fields that I don't get cut for hay (there will be some) what's the best thing to do? Just leave them, bush-hog the grass, ?? Seems to me that bush-hogging, but leaving a good stubble, should allow the grass to rot down better and will set things up to be cleaner for next year (when I'll be able to do the first cut when your "supposed" to do it :).

cheers, Andrew

PS. One further balewagon question ... in the specs on the sodbuster site it seems to list a different bale length for the 16" vs 14" bales. Given that the bales are stacked across ways, I would have thought the length would be the same for both? I'm sure I'm missing something?
 
   / Haying Equipment needs 101 #76  
20050923

Banjo, keep a couple of things in mind (per what I have been told):

1- Fescue and orchard grass leaves look somewhat similar individually (though they lay differently in the field);

2- Some horse folks will not buy fescue hay due to perceived mold problems, which I am told are mainly relevant only to pregnant mares. So far I have not had questions on this from the couple of buyers I have sold to.

I cut about 10 acres today with my trusty 1411 discbine. If you are trying to "cut corners" efficiently, keep in mind you have to swing the mower around as hard and as sharply as the instructions will permit. The video with mine shows it being manhandled hard, so that is what I am doing which helps a lot on cutting those corners.

There is a certain excitement in turning my supersteer machine so hard it almost runs into the cutter before it swings out to line up on the grass. Whee! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Happy haying,

Jim
 
   / Haying Equipment needs 101 #77  
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2- Some horse folks will not buy fescue hay due to perceived mold problems, which I am told are mainly relevant only to pregnant mares. So far I have not had questions on this from the couple of buyers I have sold to. )</font>

The problem with SOME varieties of fescue isn't mold, but that they contain ENDOPHITES, which effect the pregnant mares ability to deliver foal. There are several varieties of ENDOPHITE FREE fescue's on the market.

I just completed seeding several pastures, and a couple hayfields, using Endophite Free Fescue in the grass seed mix.

Some of the horse owners I sell hay to demand their hay be analyzed for nutritional content, and for the presence of endophites.
 
   / Haying Equipment needs 101 #78  
It's not only horses but cows too that have reproductive problems. I would certainly let anyone know that you are selling endophyte fescue. A guy was sued not long ago because he knowingly sold endophyte fescue and caused some pretty serious reproductive problems for a herd of cattle. Just because your customers may not know you are still liable if a vet determines it was you that knowingly sold the hay.

If you're selling hay it's a VERY good idea to always have it analyzed. That way you can sell accordingly for the content of the hay you have and you are also protected should anyone come back on you.
 
   / Haying Equipment needs 101 #79  
You can get heavier bales with the 14x18 ones. You just set the density on your baler and the length. As far as the correct length and setup it just depends on the stacker.

With regards to your grass that you don't get cut it's not going to make alot of difference. If you are planning on cutting next spring you aren't going to get alot of decay over the winter. What you'll find is the grass will come back slower in the spring. We've done it both ways and it doesn't seem to make alot of difference. Either way you're going to have alot of "trash" that first time you cut it.
 
   / Haying Equipment needs 101 #80  
I didn't make it clear in my last post, but I haven't sold ANY fescue hay to this point, and what I just planted is endophite free. I only sell what I don't need myself. (12 to 20 head of beef cows a year)

This year was MISERABLE haying here. Not sure I have enough for my needs, muchless to sell.

I hope the cows like the taste of snowballs /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 

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