I first started haying with a 22 hp Yanmar (not even live or 2 stage pto). I easily ran a NH 479 mower conditioner, a NH 55 rake (heck, I even pulled this with my Yamaha 4 wheeler), and a JD 14T baler. It was no big deal. Tractor never strained because the equipment doesn't really take much power if you run at an appropriate ground speed and you do maintenance on the stuff. Yep, there will be deny-ers, but they never actually tried it.
My only question is "What have you got to loose ?" Do you actually think you are going to break or fail something ? I see a lot of comments about the bailer bucking, chucking and (fill in the blank). This is a result of dull cutoff knives, worn out pto shafts, improper hitch setup leading to non-constant driveline rpm, worn out drawbar holes and pins, broken shear pins (Not even connected !!!), wrong rpm and low tractor weight. I started off helping a local dairy farmer and his 336 baler lurched like a pigeon behind a JD 4430. Yep, setup all wrong, 1/2" hitch pin bolt in a 1-1/4" drawbar, dull knives, and trying to run 12 mph.
I'm still running the same equipment now with a 35 HP JD 1070. My Youtube videos show the tractor running very smoothly at a constant rpm without a single lurch after over 25 years on the same machinery. Someone tell me what I'm doing wrong ! I do 10 -15 acres of hay and sell out before the end of the year. Some of my hills in the back are quite steep.
BTW: I now use a NH 1012 stack wagon to pickup and unload 56 to 64 bales at a time. That's 1 pickup load to my buyers and almost $200 at a shot. Either you go and buy old euipment and put some new parts into it, or buy all new for $60k. It's YOUR money ! (Might want to add air conditioning to the cab of that new 400hp tractor they will say you need).
My only question is "What have you got to loose ?" Do you actually think you are going to break or fail something ? I see a lot of comments about the bailer bucking, chucking and (fill in the blank). This is a result of dull cutoff knives, worn out pto shafts, improper hitch setup leading to non-constant driveline rpm, worn out drawbar holes and pins, broken shear pins (Not even connected !!!), wrong rpm and low tractor weight. I started off helping a local dairy farmer and his 336 baler lurched like a pigeon behind a JD 4430. Yep, setup all wrong, 1/2" hitch pin bolt in a 1-1/4" drawbar, dull knives, and trying to run 12 mph.
I'm still running the same equipment now with a 35 HP JD 1070. My Youtube videos show the tractor running very smoothly at a constant rpm without a single lurch after over 25 years on the same machinery. Someone tell me what I'm doing wrong ! I do 10 -15 acres of hay and sell out before the end of the year. Some of my hills in the back are quite steep.
BTW: I now use a NH 1012 stack wagon to pickup and unload 56 to 64 bales at a time. That's 1 pickup load to my buyers and almost $200 at a shot. Either you go and buy old euipment and put some new parts into it, or buy all new for $60k. It's YOUR money ! (Might want to add air conditioning to the cab of that new 400hp tractor they will say you need).