Heated storage cabinet

[bdhsfz6]

I keep temp sensitive items in my unheated garage. It's adjacent to the house and never gets below 40 or above 80 degrees. I put items that need to be kept above 40 in my large gun safe. It has a Goldenrod heater / dehumidifier, and stays above 50.

 

[chim]

At work we had leftover partial spools of RayChem self-regulating heat trace in 5W and 8W per foot. We had some welding electrodes and different adhesives that had to be kept warm and dry on jobsites. We took used 1 and 2 drawer file cabinets and lined them inside (walls and top only) with duct liner insulation. On the outside of the bottom we fastened the heat trace in a serpentine pattern and then put insulation over it.

 

[mattltlp]

Use TWO small (15W?) incandescent bulbs. If one burns out the cabinet won't go completely cold on you.

 

[jyoutz]

Use an old refrigerator for storage. The insulation really holds a constant temperature. And a small heat source when it’s really cold would be all that’s needed.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

I used a old refrigerator, put a box and porcelain lamp holder mounted on the back wall all the way at the bottom, used a 40 watt bulb
Just make sure to keep anything from being too close to the bulb

Same idea, but I used a seedling mat, which came with a digital thermostat, as the heat source.

Just bought a new 3D printer, and plan to install it in another old fridge. That will allow me to maintain a constant temperature, and vent any noxious gasses outside, when I'm printing. I'm looking for a 6 or 4-inch duct heater, to use as a heat source.

 

[Fallon]

Same idea, but I used a seedling mat, which came with a digital thermostat, as the heat source.

Just bought a new 3D printer, and plan to install it in another old fridge. That will allow me to maintain a constant temperature, and vent any noxious gasses outside, when I'm printing. I'm looking for a 6 or 4-inch duct heater, to use as a heat source.

You'll end up with a mess if you are printing PLA. It overheats easily and the part cooling fan can't get it to solidify fast enough. ABS needs a heated enclosed chamber, but isn't a great option these days. It warps to easy & gives off noxious fumes. PLA & PETG are better easier to use options these days.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

You'll end up with a mess if you are printing PLA. It overheats easily and the part cooling fan can't get it to solidify fast enough. ABS needs a heated enclosed chamber, but isn't a great option for these days. It warps to easy & gives off noxious fumes. PLA & PETG are better easier to use options for these days.

I'm headed towards more engineering grade materials. And since I will have a ventilated and conditioned cabinet, I will be able to either heat incoming air or not. PETG or PLA occasionally for prototyping, or possibly lost filament casting. But more on the line of reinforced Nylons, and other engineering grade materials.

I have a Bambu X1C and am looking at the differences between it and the X1E. The extruder on the X1C gets hot enough for 99% of my needs. But I need to heat the chamber for quite a few of them. And the X1C doesn't have active chamber heating. So, placing the X1C in an environment I can control, gets me better filtering, chamber temperature control, and sound deadening.

 

[cmyoung2]

I use old refrigerator or freezer with the appliance bulbs on a thermostat, but I wire 2 in series, they don't burn bright because the voltage is split, but they will last a very long time-because of that reduced voltage. The 2 - 40 watt will still give up 40 watts of heat(together), plenty to keep a frig warm. I also use that setup for heating the pumphouse(lights, not frig).
I also use a old freezer with the same setup to store my pesticides over winter.

 

[5030]

I had my welding rods in a small fridge with a 60 watt bulb until it burnt out. It worked great. Can't find incandescent anywhere any more

Try Amascon...lol

 

[5030]

My entire shop is heated and air conditioned and I keep the ambient temperature at 70 degrees (f) year around and the RH at 50% as well. Have to do that with precision machine tools. Main shop has PEX in floor heat which in my humble opinion is the best heating medium and in the summer I cool the fluid to provide air conditioning. T'stat stays set at 70 all the time and the sensing unit for it is in the floor, epoxied in at a depth of 4".

I do have a welding rod box as well but only to keep the rods dry, not for temperature.