Heating Aluminum Case to Remove Oil Plug

[5030]

On an auto production line, items like drain plugs don't get anything on the threads and what makes it worse is the plug is steel and the case in aluminum so the plug locks in place. When I replaced mine with a new one, I put some never seize on the threads. Has a helluva time removing the old one. Had to wire weld a nut on it as I rounded off the hex on the end. Bad design. Should be a recessed 1/2" square drive like an an ordinary diff cover.

 

[WranglerX]

This can be your friend....

https://www.delcity.net/images/photos/225px/13065133_primary_225px.jpg

 

[Midniteoyl]

I've used nickel graphite anti-seize for decades. Love the stuff.

 

[fried1765]

I've used nickel graphite anti-seize for decades. Love the stuff.

It is mighty nasty chit to get off your hands though!
Lacquer thinner works best.

 

[Midniteoyl]

It is mighty nasty chit to get off your hands though!
Lacquer thinner works best.

Well worth the hassle to not have a bolt or lug nut seized 15+ yrs later..

 

[Sberry]

I know never seize is babbled about continuously but really a pinch of spray or light oil works. A can of never seize last me a long time, I really rarely use it. We use common penetrating spray, the Kroil types but not so expensive. The education of mechanics is very poor in this area,,, almost pitiful so many dont know how a bolt or nut work.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Put a nut and bolt together that are different materials using a 'pinch of spray' and leave it outside for 15-20 years then try to take them apart. Lemme know how it works...

 

[Sberry]

I have done this and can tell which ones were sprayed. Even nuts submerged for a decade. We own and service the same equipment for decades. Have pulled a lot of stuff apart had that snot on it and didnt help all that much especially corrosion.
In fact done it not only once but 1000's of times. Never a problem if they been sprayed, some even have exposed threads rusted off, look almost new internally.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Glad its working for you. For me, no oil, from motor to tranny to WD to PT-1 to Kroil to PB Blaster to whatever has ever worked as good as a simple dab of nickel graphite for anti-seize.

50/50 tranny oil and acetone for penetrating oil, now, is a whole different story.

 

[Sberry]

I dont think thge 50/50 works better than anything else. This experience doesnt come from some anecdotal event from working on my hobby car or Jeep but thousands of applications and supervising thousands more over decades. Even though the math is over my head have discussed this at length and worked for engineers doing this type of work. The keg of bolts doesnt come with grease and crap slathered on them.
The Europeans were way ahead and possibly the Japanese but havnt worked on much of their equipment. I have worked on Euro Mack stuff and at first glance a guy figures the stuff isnt going to come apart but under the nubs of suspension bolts which have the outers rusted right off, even damaged hex but inside they are pristine. They were treated prior to installation. Even as crappy as WD is it works quite well for installation work to prevent seizure and displaces water vs a dry thread.
Tapered threads are very crude, pipe for example on top of being tapered. It isnt always it corroded in spot but seized during installation. Had the parts store counterman out a while back and he puts a brand new trailer ball on his truck and before I can say spray he tightens it. Then decides he wants to change something and the threads came with is,,ha, he was puissed, brand new. Didnt rust on there and never seize would have worked, no doubt there but a little shot of spray would have been sufficient also.
Get a chance to mess with 2 inch steel pipe and note how stuck they can get from hand tighten dry. Have seen them friction welded from test fit.
Had a guy used to work for me I seen a while back said,,, you made me a believer and cant believe the difference it makes especially for removal and getting them tight in the first place. Real engineere knew this long time ago, nothing new and look at old Snappy torque wrench manual,,, says,,, al values for clean lightly lubricated, back when they wrote that the mix was often kerosene and engine oil.
The Kroil craze,,, its good but noit that good and under real world not earth shattering compared to liquid wrench and some other more economical sprays. We got some other studd at 2 or 2.50 a can from Menards we use for removal work and the liq wrench has a bit more oil we like for assembly. If we found stuff stuck we worked on we would find a better solution but there is not really a better way than the way we do it. Its more of a fact than an opinion and based on a LOT of experience and only a little internet "research".