Heating for new shop. What to use?
- Thread starter Redneck in training
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204saskman
Gold Member
I explored this possibility but the maintance is very high on them. Im Going to be installing a boiler soon for my shop and im gonna install a AFS 900 outdoor grain boiler. They clain they can heat 4000 sq/ft so im gonna install radiant lines in my house(just run themin the joists) and im gonna install 2 old gas over head furnaces in my shop(32x40x16) and install the water rads in them and use them as forced air. Im going the grain route as i currently have 2 grain/pellet stoves in my house and it costs me next to nothing to heat my house(1969 bunglow 1050 sq/ft on main and basement). Last winter it cost me $35/month top heat my house with our stoves and that included the power. If there is alot of grain in your area, i would suggest looking into something like this as you can burn the screenings from the seed cleaners and they usually sell them for $0.50/60 LB's or 28 Kg's. on average i burn about 2 bushells per day. Just some thought for ya.
OP
Redneck in training
Elite Member
I am still greatly undecided. Fortunately I have about 6 months to think about that. PEX in floor will add only about $700 to the cost of the building. Pink insulation will add about $2500.
I am also looking at:
Geofinity Atlas - Combined
It provides great efficiency of the floor heating but it also blows hot air to increase temperature quickly and also AC. Or I might just go with straight forced air unit and forget the PEX. Since it is a shop PEX might be a problem if you need to anchor something to the floor. On the other hand the PEX doesn't have to be under whole floor.
Geofinity Zephyrus - Forced Air
According to the dealer either unit will cost, with all the tax breaks and rebates, about the same as standard furnace provided we install the PEX, ground loop, associated pumps and manifolds by ourselves.
We have geothermal heating in the house heating about 3800 sqft and AC 2400 sqft for maximum $100/month. The shop will be about 2700 sqft so I am guessing it will add another $70/month to the electric bill. That is not much money for the convenience I suppose.
I am also looking at:
Geofinity Atlas - Combined
It provides great efficiency of the floor heating but it also blows hot air to increase temperature quickly and also AC. Or I might just go with straight forced air unit and forget the PEX. Since it is a shop PEX might be a problem if you need to anchor something to the floor. On the other hand the PEX doesn't have to be under whole floor.
Geofinity Zephyrus - Forced Air
According to the dealer either unit will cost, with all the tax breaks and rebates, about the same as standard furnace provided we install the PEX, ground loop, associated pumps and manifolds by ourselves.
We have geothermal heating in the house heating about 3800 sqft and AC 2400 sqft for maximum $100/month. The shop will be about 2700 sqft so I am guessing it will add another $70/month to the electric bill. That is not much money for the convenience I suppose.
crazyal
Super Member
Get them while you can. Around here you can't use them anymore because the waste oil from cars are full of things they don't want burnt like detergents and antifreeze. Secondly with the EPA deciding to crack down on everything else it's just a matter of time before they revise their position on them.
adjusterr
Silver Member
About 10 years ago I built a 24x40x10 pole barn, insulated the roof then insulated walls and ceiling with 4x8 sheets of foam insulation board. I heat it very well with an electric freestanding hot air furnace slavaged from a wrecked new mobile home. The furnace discharges through the bottom so I welded up a stand to elevate it about 18 inches off the floor, works like a charm and is surprisingly inexpensive. Sure was simple to hookup.
3BPercherons
Silver Member
For what it's worth, I've been using one of these radiant tube heaters to heat a 20x30 woodshop in a metal frame/metal wall building. Works well and the propane use rate seems reasonable.
LD1
Epic Contributor
I heat mine with wood. Like you, I am not out there all of the time, so when I am, I want it to warm up as quickly as possible. If you have the ability to cut the wood yourself or even buy it at a reasonable price locally, wood is probabally going to be the cheapest to install.
I have a barrel stove in mine. 30x30 with r13 walls and r19 ceilings and two 9x8 garage doors. I can go from 30 to 65-70 in about an 1-2 hours. and then choke the fire down or it will just run me out it gets so hot. And mine is only a single barrel. I also have a steel tank and steel line set up for an oil drip. Helps get the fire going at first and gets rid of all of my waste oil.
Stove kit only cost me $35, I already had the barrel, and the 24' x 12" x 5/16 thich Iron pipe of the chimney only cost me $100. So I have less than 150 in the whole setup. But I cut a lot of wood too, so that was no problem for me.
I have a barrel stove in mine. 30x30 with r13 walls and r19 ceilings and two 9x8 garage doors. I can go from 30 to 65-70 in about an 1-2 hours. and then choke the fire down or it will just run me out it gets so hot. And mine is only a single barrel. I also have a steel tank and steel line set up for an oil drip. Helps get the fire going at first and gets rid of all of my waste oil.
Stove kit only cost me $35, I already had the barrel, and the 24' x 12" x 5/16 thich Iron pipe of the chimney only cost me $100. So I have less than 150 in the whole setup. But I cut a lot of wood too, so that was no problem for me.
Mike Costello
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
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- 423
- Location
- Dunnegan, Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota L4400HST, R4 tires, L2228 Quick-attach setup
I have a 30X60X12 fully insulated shop. I use a kerosene fired (or diesel) torpedo heater rated at 125,000 btu. It's on wheels so it can easily be moved anywhere in the shop as needed. I can heat the shop up comfortably in about 20 minutes. It is temperature controlled, so once it gets to the desired setting, it will cycle on and off as needed.
I like it because you turn it on when you're working in the shop, but don't waste a lot of energy when you're not there. Plus, it's fairly efficient on fuel use. I use #2 diesel because it is cheaper than kerosene, but does give off a slight smell vs kerosene which is more highly refined. My shop is fully vented which helps in air flow. If you install good insulation during construction, it will pay off when it come time for heat.
I like it because you turn it on when you're working in the shop, but don't waste a lot of energy when you're not there. Plus, it's fairly efficient on fuel use. I use #2 diesel because it is cheaper than kerosene, but does give off a slight smell vs kerosene which is more highly refined. My shop is fully vented which helps in air flow. If you install good insulation during construction, it will pay off when it come time for heat.
Dave5264
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2009
- Messages
- 376
- Location
- Near North Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- 08 Montana C5264, 2011 McCormick CX100 XS
Interesting thread, I built my shop in the spring and am looking at options now (no in floor heat for me -- should have put pex inthe floor when i had the chance but didnt).
We can not heat with Wood in a garage here, Insurance restriction. Actually I believe there are restrictions on other types of open flame heat in a garage here now too.
I may look at a large electric heater with a fan, or eventually try the radient heat in the ceiling since its a 2 story shop/garage.
We can not heat with Wood in a garage here, Insurance restriction. Actually I believe there are restrictions on other types of open flame heat in a garage here now too.
I may look at a large electric heater with a fan, or eventually try the radient heat in the ceiling since its a 2 story shop/garage.
AHNC
Gold Member
How are you going to use the space? Do you intend to partition off different areas for different uses? If so you might want to consider a few different options or combinations. Radiant is great heat, once you have a load against it. Meaning, once it gets cold and stays cold. In the shoulder seasons you suffer from the lead/lag issues of the thermal mass of the slab, as well as the inertia on start-up. No question that when its doing its thing it is really nice. Hi intensity infrared is terrific in some areas.
As I've pointed out in other posts, I'm a manuf rep in the hvac industry. I represent a radiant tubing manuf, hi-intensity infra-red manuf, and they are sealed combustion, a minisplit manuf and boilers ,heaters, etc.
My AHNC (All hat, no cattle) handle here was chosen because when I first joined this site I had almost no experience with tractors and implements. You all have taught me a great deal which I appreciate very much. I'm suggesting specific products at times. I just want to say that I use these products in my own home. I guess my point is that I'm not trying ot sell anyone anything, just offering my experience.
As I've pointed out in other posts, I'm a manuf rep in the hvac industry. I represent a radiant tubing manuf, hi-intensity infra-red manuf, and they are sealed combustion, a minisplit manuf and boilers ,heaters, etc.
My AHNC (All hat, no cattle) handle here was chosen because when I first joined this site I had almost no experience with tractors and implements. You all have taught me a great deal which I appreciate very much. I'm suggesting specific products at times. I just want to say that I use these products in my own home. I guess my point is that I'm not trying ot sell anyone anything, just offering my experience.
