Heating my shop?

   / Heating my shop? #11  
DocHeb
Thanks for the link. Yep, I know the ones you guys mean now. They're Great! As for myself, the cost of fuel is prohibitive. I'd be working in the cold. As long as I am able to bring in wood(got a lot of it for free, just my time) it's how I'll heat. Maybe I'll print a pic from the site and post it over the coming workbench./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif.
 
   / Heating my shop? #12  
David,
Up here in the northeast where at times it gets more than a tad chilly /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif we burn wood to take the cold edge off the sheds barns etc...a fair size woodstove w/ a fan behind the woodstove to blow the warm about...quick and easy. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

The best setup I seen so far double 55 gallon barrel setup,one use to be able to buy the kit {legs,door,2 barrel connector}for about $60.oo thru Famers Almaic...not sure if still on the market.
The plus side one could burn anything{not tires /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif}also easy to clean,and the down side no protecting from the hot barrels if one should stumble into.

I agree w/you..ten degress does make a lot of differents...keep warm this winter. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif


Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
 
   / Heating my shop? #13  
Joe,
Mine was only $1100 but I did the installation myself. I use it quite often and I only have to fill my 500 gallon tank once a winter and have some left at the end. I keep it 40 in there all winter as that is where I park my pickup and I have water in it. I heat with wood in the house so I didn't want to keep two woodstoves going all winter. I also get the farm propane so it's not as expensive either.

18-35034-TRACTO~1.GIF
 
   / Heating my shop? #14  
A friend installed a waste-oil burner in his 3-bay residential garage after it proved it's success down at his business...

Of course you'd need a supply of "waste" to burn... but it's free heat forever... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

18-35196-JDMFWDSigJFM.JPG
 
   / Heating my shop?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Well, thanks for the replies everyone. I do have 40acres of wood to burn plus the scraps from warm weather projects. My neighbor has a large wood burner in his 30x36x12 that takes up a lot of space. But is does not do a good job even after raging all day. Not sure if the style or type makes a difference there. I do like the ReadyHeaters
TN-RED-RH125T.jpg

and for $200 for a 70k btu rated for a 36x40 area it is in my price range. Plus I can move it around and store it when not in use.
CowboyDoc, an industrial tube type heater sound nice but I am no doctor. $1100 is a few dollars over my budget. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif And I don't believe I will use 500 gallons of fuel. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
I have seen kits for the double barrel (55 gal) wood burning stoves. But the pics make them look huge. Not sure if I want to loose that much space all year. Afterall, it is too small now! /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif


logo.jpg
 
   / Heating my shop? #16  
I have a 30 X 40 metal pole building with 10' ceilings & an upstairs. I insulated the walls
with 1" insulation board. (r-board i think it's called),then covered that with 1/2 inch
oxboard. I am like you, I want to be able to go into the building & turn the heat on right
away. I used a 100 btu torpedo heater for the first couple of yrs. Used only Kerosene in it
& the smell wasn't too bad. If you use diesel fuel it will be alot more noticeable. Last year
I got a used oil furnace & put in a metal insulated chimney. I still use the torpedo heater
to get the temperature up fast. Then the oil furnace takes over. No worrys about the fumes
and the noise from the torpedo heater, which can be annoying after a while. I have a 275
gallon tank outside & being I only turn the furnace on when I'm going to be out there for a
while the fuel consumption wasn't very bad at all. (less than 100 gal. last yr.) To save
space you can get a downdraft furnace. I considered propane, but there is a minumum
usage amount or you get billed for tank rental. Hope this helps.
 
   / Heating my shop? #17  
My shop is 35x70 and about 20-22 ft at the peak of the roof plus a room in the middle of a long side about 10x12. There is some spray on celulose junk that sheds a lot of 1-2 inch lumps. Not very much R value but anything helps. Insulation is about 25 yrs old. Prev owner left a suspended propane fired fan circulated heater, pretty big but I have never fired it up. He also left a home brew waste oil heater the size of a 45 gal drum made from a pressure vessel, pretty stout. He trickled waste oil into it and vented the stack out a window with 4 inch flue pipe. Was said to work well, I haven't used it. I have a propane powered overhead IR unit like you see at outside eating areas with the tank in the base and a big aluminum flying saucer reflector on top. It doesn't heat the building much but will make the area under it anything from just barely warmer to way too hot for human habitation, just adjust the twist knob. It has a safety pilot and piezo electric ignition.

I am thinking of puting it up on a raised pedestal to gain two benefits. 1. won't melt my cap off my head while my feet are freezing due to head being close to heat element and feet 4 times farther away. 2. will heat a much larger area of the floor space.

I expect raising it to greatly reduce the differential in heating over the variance of altitide from my feet to head. I like it a lot because it is virtually instant comfort and I can easily work in the coldest weather (near 0) with out wearing gloves which interfere with my progress. I frequently tip it about 30 degrees to put more heat on one side of the pedestal.

Not arguing against any of the other successful heating strategies but for quick comfort without having to build a fire way in advance and not having to burn enough fuel to actually heat the air and contents of the building radiant is the way to go. I am thinking of building a radiant unit for myself. It is essentially a big burner (like a bunsen burner) with a flue pipe where the hot flue pipe extends for quite a distance to efficiently radiate heat before it is lost up the vent. You run the hot exhaust pipe along the axial focus of a reflector trough that directs the IR downward or down and sideways if you mount it along a wall. Seen these things at a barbeque place in San Antonio with outside picnic tables. Boy howdy did they put out the rays, you betcha. No electricity required, just use a self generating milivolt system with Piezo ignition.

Good luck, report what you do and how it works.

Patrick
 
   / Heating my shop? #18  
When I bought my first house in NH in 1971, it had a six
burner cast iron kerosene pot stove (a coal conversion)
in the kitchen. When I sold the house I took it with me
and it's been my shop heat ever since. Back when
kerosene was cheap I would run it 7x24 if I was doing
a lot of auto work in the winter. With kero at $1.45/gal
now I only fire it up on weekends. I don't know how
many BTUs it rates but the shop never gets below 50
no matter how cold it is out.

Was talking to my oil man once about what other people
use. He said that when people replace trailer kerosene
furnaces due to broken heat exchangers he saves them
and sells them to people with workshops for $100. Take
it apart, weld up the cracks in the heat exchanger, and
you have a 100K BTU shop furnace for cheap.

Timd
 
   / Heating my shop? #19  
Richard (cowboydoc),

You mention that your tube heater is 20-25' long. How big is your building?

I've found a surplus 75K BTU tube heater that is 20' long. My building is 28x40 with 12' ceilings. I'm a little concerned about having cold ends.

Thanks,
-david
 
   / Heating my shop? #20  
<font color="blue"> "I'm a little concerned about having cold ends" </font>

Maybe if you kind of backed up to the heater once in a while... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 

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