Heating Problem

   / Heating Problem #11  
Just like a carburetor. So you need more gas per air with NG. The first thing I thought of was drilling out the nozzles, too bad there are six. It would be really handy if you could figure out the orifice size from the part number or you could just keep on upsizing until the flame was a nice clear/blue.

On second thought, this is fine for something like a barbecue that won't kill you in the night. If you were faced with a decision like heat or death, then get out your drill and make it work but since you're not facing a life or death situation, it is prudent to use the right part.

If you intend to live in that home long I would at least price out a new furnace. Considering improvements in efficiency and parts availability down the road keeping the old furnace running may be like polishing a turd. I haven't priced a new furnace though so maybe a little polishing is appropriate. At least consider it.
 
   / Heating Problem #12  
"Usually" LP size .010 and Natural Gas .018, but...you darn well better make sure per the manufacturer as far as particular equipment spec's

As mentioned by Highbeam, gas furnaces have caused more deaths than you would think, and if not certain, don't do it.

If the heat exchanger goes on you, will be time for another furnace anyway, because they will charge you an arm and a leg for frieght.

Thats a mighty big furnace you have there, and unless you have VERY little insulation in your house or it's over 3,000 square foot, it's probably oversized, which could lead to other issues if you try to replace the existing one (duct size for one).

Found a copy of the installation instructions on the gas valve you have on order. Tired to post them here, but files to large. If you would like a copy to "see what your getting yourself into", send me a PM.

By the way, if you wanted to cancel the order and they won't let you, open the gas valve and instructions at thier place. The paperwork from honeywell on that gas valve will "let you off the hook" so to speak if you don't want it. But...once you leave thier place with the valve, it will be yours.

Just ticks me off that although they may being "helpful", they are just making a big margin sale to someone who may not know what they're getting themselves into (or you may have no problems at all, I'm not in any way questioning your intelligence, please don't take it that way), and if you see the way I spell, need I say more:)

The reason I mention this is that if you called a a gas valve a "gas controller" to the supplier, they darn well know you aren't certain of what your looking for.

Personally, I've been involved in one lawsuit where a contractor was sued by a homeowner because the contractor sold the part to the homeowner (a gass valve actually) and the house went "kaboom"! Nothing came out on my end becuase I was the one who sold it to a LICENSED CONTRACTOR, but the contractor did go out of business.

Thks
 
   / Heating Problem #13  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Yes, its 150k btu. I believe that orifice is probably the right term. I need six at about $16 each.

I called Heat Controller and they would not tell me much. As soon as they found out that I was not a pro, they stopped answering questions. They supplier I'm working with called them and that is how they got the list of required parts.

The gas controller needed is a Honeywell VR8205h 8016. The furnace is a model Conquest 80, GKUA150-E5N serial CW5D307 F0194 0143. Furnace is 11 yrs old.

Yes, I have thought of replacing the entire unit, but the parts have already been paid for and non-refundable. )</font>

Jerry,

If they have not shipped the parts yet they should be able to refund your money. They can't expect you to freeze while they can't supply the parts. I would ask them to give you a quote for a new furnace. Your spending alot of money on an old furnace and may find yourself spending more soon. It is just a thought ans you would start out with new warranties etc.

murph
 
   / Heating Problem #14  
If you knew what you are doing I would say convert the old parts & save your money. I have converted a good many furnaces from propane to nat. gas. Propane burns at about 11 " wc (water colum) nat gas will burn at about 3" w.c. ( you should have approx. 6' w.c. comming in and the reg. in the gas valve will cut the pressure to 3"" wc) if you knew your gas valve was set up to put out 11 " w.c., you could use a converson chart & drill your old orifices out for 15000 btu @ 11" w.c. Don't try any of this if you are a 1st. timer. Serious injury or death could result ! There is my disclaimer ! I should be covered.
 
   / Heating Problem #15  
the gas valve will require a Propane to Nat gas conversion kit as well as the larger orfices, the KIT is little more than a small spring & seat with a new o-ring usually. as for the orfices they are precision drilled to exact sizes and then the air is adjusted to the correct flame patern.

now I have my disclaimer as I don't even remember posting this /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Heating Problem #16  
I have converted more of these fads than I care to count . If you had a southern gas code book you could look up the size drill for the conversion of the orifices. You can convert this unit without the spring that goes into the valve to regulate from 11" to 3.5" if you drill 15000btu @ 11" w.c. without any problems. I did this for years as a gas utility service tech. You have have to purchase drill bits that are numbered 1,2,3,etc; /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
   / Heating Problem #17  
Here's an idea for ya.....Man, sigarms is going to absolutly freek at this suggestion.......But I'd consider buying a 100k BTU gibson off the internet and slap that baby in. 800 bucks, done. I'd do a heat load calc. to size it first.

In fact, there are a few heating places around here that will sell you a furnace, gasp, and let you install it. They'll even help bend up ducts, plenums, etc. The stipulation is they must inspect your work and do the final hookup. One thing they want to see is enough return air so the HX's dont crack. I've been told you can save close to 1k in install costs. Anyway, good luck to you.

HVACer's: please don't beat me up to badly.
 
   / Heating Problem #18  
If I wree going to install a new faf today, as high as gas prices are . I would install a 90 + I have one in my home.
 
   / Heating Problem
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Ok folks, here is the latest. I just called the supplier (Servall) and they are now saying two more weeks. Lets back up a little; First they said 2 to 3 days, then after 3 days they said 7 to 10 days, then after 10 days they said 5 more days, now after the 5 more days they say 2 more weeks . . .

They told me that they will research the delay and call me tomorrow morning around 9am. They have also told me that they will allow me to cancel and receive a refund. I'll make a decision after they call me tomorow.

So, how much $$$ to have a new Nat Gas forced air furnace installed for 2200 sq ft (story and half). (Furnace goes in basement) Central air coil is installed in current furnace. Can this be installed in the new furnace ?

Current furnace is 150,000 btu
 
   / Heating Problem #20  
Actually I wouldn't freak out if you installed it yourself.

I could actually give you more than a couple of "internet sites" that will sell you the equipment.

Just make sure you know what frieght is and read THIER (sp?) warranty "guide" over and above what the manufacturers is (and I mean the FINEPRINT). Has to laugh after reading a couple of those.

That's why we have advanced auto parts /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Um excuse me, whats a delta T? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Whats the difference between latent (sp?) and ambiant (sp?)? (ok, late in the day and I always use my computer for speeling and I don't know how to use wordcheck here!)

Whats a manual J?

If you know what your doing, go for it, but...you can really end up paying more in the long run if you really try to save money.

Gibson!!! That's usually the guy who replaces BTU for BTU in the house (hey, at least in my area).

Return air, why do we need that?!

uhh...150,000btu for 2200 sq. ft? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

They sized the house using the finger equation or you have holes in your walls.

Seriously, a load calculation should be done on your house to determine the load. As far as the coil, depends on a couple of factors, but...shouldn't be a problem as long as you can do some sheet metal work. But...keep in mind, different size furnace MAY require different size duct work to "maximize" the airflow from the furnace and a/c.
 

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