Heating Problem

[johnk]

You need return air vents so the heat is pulled across the rooms. The only rooms that won't have them (usually) are the kitchen and bathroom..

 

[Jagmandave]

I put my own furnace in a few years ago, replacing the original. The first unit I bought was so much smaller in size than the old one, that I could not figure an effective way to hook up the old ductwork. Fortunately they sold the same furnace in a bigger "package", and allowed me to return the first one. It's worked fine since day one, and my gas bills were 1/2 the first year. Of course, gas prices have almost doubled since then, so I'm pretty much back where I started monthly cost wise, but I have a new furnace!

Oh, cost me about $700 for a new lennox, 3 years ago.

 

[Birdhunter1]

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uhh...150,000btu for 2200 sq. ft? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

They sized the house using the finger equation or you have holes in your walls.

Seriously, a load calculation should be done on your house to determine the load. As far as the coil, depends on a couple of factors, but...shouldn't be a problem as long as you can do some sheet metal work. But...keep in mind, different size furnace MAY require different size duct work to "maximize" the airflow from the furnace and a/c.

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He's in Michigan, where the outdoor design temps are muc lower, for longer, than the outdoor design temps where you are. Most likely that 150,00 BTu isn't too far off if it is even off at all!

 

[Sigarms]

You're correct, wasn't even thinking about the state. One reason though to do the load calc.

 

[Sigarms]

The reason I mentioned return air is not because of vents, but due to propper sizing of the return air to maximize air flow across the coil and heat exchanger. You would be surprised how many "cracked" heat exchangers are due to the return air being to small.

 

[Sigarms]

Had a residential house I had saved in my system. Fourteen hundred sq. ft (and all info needed for the load such as R value, windows ect...). Here in N.C load was 36k for cooling and 32k for heat. Only variable changed was location of state, from N.C to Lansing (sp?) Michigan. "New" load was 32k for cooling and the heating increased to 44k.

Program was Wrightsoft.

 

[Mrwurm]

Ok guys, here is the latest. The supplier said they can get the gas valve in about two weeks, but they can't get the orifices ! They let me cancel and they refunded my money. Done.

Next, I found another supplier who said they could get the parts in two to three days (here we go again). They called me back and said that they can get the valve in 10 days but that there are only 3 orifices in the supply chain right now. (I need six) The manufacturer lists them as backorder. They cannot even estimate availability.

I have removed the orifices and they are size 54. The installation and parts guide that came with the furnace lists all natural gas models as using size 42.

Anyone know for sure what drill size that is ?

 

[Bird]

Jerry, I don't have an answer, but look at this site and see if something there can help.

 

[Mrwurm]

Ok, from Birds link, it looks like a #42 is .0935 in. Trouble is, the orifices are sized in .004 increments. So, if I'm off by .004 inches, I'm into the next size. I'm not sure how I could size to that tolerance.

Would a simple #42 drill run through the orifice do the trick, or does it need to be precision reemed ?

Thanks Bird

 

[Highbeam]

I'm thinking this is a drill press job just so the hole is straight and since you are shaving such a small amount off.