Heavy-Duty Snow Plow - Looking for Advice on Model Selection

[nybirdman]

You definitely want a "factory" cab;the added air conditioning for summer use is worth it alone.Use your skills to convert an old truck plow to the tractor.
Mine is cabbed,44HP,4Wd with R1(loaded rears),also run a seven foot rear blade;total maybe 7,000 lbs.I can and do push a lot of snow.

 

[Rancher Ed]

Welcome ZedAxis,

Depending on your budget I would recommend either a larger CUT (Compact Utility Tractor) or preferably a true utility tractor. Whatever tractor you get I recommend getting it "loader ready" as the joystick will make hydraulic connections for your blade simple. Look at how the manufacturer mounts their loader and grill gaurd - you will want to use the same mounting locations when you fabricate the mounting points for your plow.

For plowing snow I would highly recommend a hydraulic shuttle for your transmission choice (also called a power shuttle, power reverser, etc. depending on the brand). A hydrostatic transmission would also work, but you will be limited to a CUT. As mentioned by other posters, weight is key in having the ability to push snow. A 50hp utility tractor is going to do a better job pushing snow than a 60hp CUT due to more weight (and larger tires which will have better traction) while likely costing less to purchase. If you are working on some type of pavement or improved gravel I strongly recommend the Nokian, R14T, or turf tires as mentioned by others. If you will be plowing dirt and potentially muddy roads and areas the R14T or even R1 tires might be a better choice.

On the larger end of what you might be looking at, Rustyiron has a very nice Kubota M9540 setup for plowing:

Utility Tractors (Likely the sweet spot between size/speed and budget):

• Kubota M6060 / M7060
• John Deere 5E series
• Kioti NX Series

Larger Utility Tractors (These are one frame-size up from the above utility tractors. They will ride better due to larger tires and a longer wheelbase but will also cost more.)

• Massey Ferguson 4700 Series
• Kubota M5 Series
• John Deere 5E or 5M series
• Kioti PX Series

CUTs (available with either a hydraulic shuttle or hydrostatic transmission unless noted)

• John Deere 4000 series
• Massey Ferguson 1700M series (1750M and larger)
• Kioti DK10 / DK10SE
• Kubota MX Series (Hydrostatic only)
• Kubota Grand L (L4760 and larger, Hydrostatic only)

Good luck and please post pictures when you fabricate your plow setup.

Edited to Add: I completely agree with the other posters recommending a factory cab. All the models listed above are available with a factory cab.

 

[5030]

This is me with a 10 foot power angle retired county plow. Usually have chains on the front tires (none needed on the back) and in FWA always when plowing and a snowblower for the back as well, just not on in the picture.

Bought the plow and subframe for a grand from the road commish a couple years ago and refitted it for a SSQA mount. Put on a new wear edge and keep it greased and it's good to go. You will need a tractor with 3rd function or hydraulic QD fittings in the front if you want power angle.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I'm going to agree with the guys saying to "go bigger". Also factory cab with heat, if this is indeed to be a purpose built snow plow rig.

I'm assuming you're "18-20 inches of snow" is per snow event, and not winter total. Because less than 2 feet of snow for the entire winter is non-existent snow (at least around here anyway).

My CUT with FEL, bucket, rear box blade and filled rear tires weights 7100 lbs. I don't think that's big or heavy enough for what you need. You'll also want the good euro-style chains on all 4 tires, so the angle blade on the FEL doesn't just push you sideways.

I would go Utility Tractor size (think 10,000 pound + "all-in" class), FEL mounted hyd angled blade (3rd function on FEL), euro-chains all 4 tires, factory cab with heat, either heavy 3pt angle blade with top/tilt and angle controls (rear remotes) -OR- 3pt driven snow blower with hyd chute and deflector controls (rear remotes). You'll also have enough mass and power to push back snow banks when needed. May need the option of switching to the blower on 3pt for same reasons (high banks) later in season, depending on your layout of your grounds.

Then you will be the master of your environment, not the slave to it.

 

[shooterdon]

Look at the LS 4100 series tractors. Cabs are only $4k and worth it. I have the optional loaded oversized turfs on mine and the 3rd function was dealer installed.

I have a Mickey Mouse front blade setup that works for my needs. I bought a SSQA unit that allows the use of 3PH attachments and mounted my rear blade to it. But for anything over 3" I use a rear inverted blower.

Plows are great if you have room to push the snow so keep that in mind. If you are only going to plow, a tractor is not your best choice. Get a decent used pickup truck and a good plow blade set up. $12k for the truck and $6k for a plow you have a more versatile vehicle that will plow faster than any tractor at half the price of cabbed tractor with plow. My advice is not to buy a used plow truck as some get beat up badly. A 3/4 ton 4WD is about perfect.

Tractor for snow only makes sense if you already have it, or you need to blow snow, or you have other uses for it. IMHO

 

[BoylermanCT]

OP, how much plowing are you doing? How long is the driveway, roads and parking areas you are plowing. That will make a big impact on what size tractor you may need. Would a blower be a better tool? Depends if you have space to put the snow while plowing. I prefer blowing as I only have to deal with the snow once. But using my plow is much faster.

I have a poor man's cab on my tractor. A jacket with a hood and ski goggles! When I retire I might give myself a cabbed tractor as my retirement present!

 

[Industrial Toys]

I suggested a commercial customer buy a Legrand Kubota with front mount blower. They have a paved thousand foot driveway and maybe 100 car lot. they consider the tractor to be micky mouse and wish they had bought something bigger. Just not enough muscle and always breaking down.

 

[chim]

I would spend the extra money for the factory cab as you will get something back for resale.

The best made homemade cab is worth zero. It will probably detract from making a sale unless it is removed and the machine shows no signs of the retrofit.

That isn't my experience. The homemade cab is what sold my L3200 package deal yesterday for $18,500 with the implements in the ad. Not my opinion, but three buyers. One said he'd take it if the other buyer didn't show yesterday. I had a little over $20K in it NOT counting my labor spent on fabbing the stuff. Bought the tractor new in 2012.

212 Kubota L32 Sold Jan 17th - farm & garden - by owner - sale

I have used tractors that had home made cabs or vintage cheap cabs. They can be extremely loud like you are sitting in a echo chamber. Just something to think about....:2cents:

True. I always used ear plugs or wore shooter's muffs in my homemade cab in the L3200. The L4240 factory cab is a totally different experience. The L3200 was replaced to get more HP for a front-mounted snowplow, wider RFM and A/C for the hot weather.

 

[Big Barn]

That isn't my experience. The homemade cab is what sold my L3200 package deal yesterday for $18,500 with the implements in the ad. .

You obviously did a good job on the build!

 

[chim]

Thank you. I'm not a "weldor", but I'm very much a tinkerer and had a picture of what it needed to be in my head. Guys in our Weld Shop at work gave me lots of coaching - and some assistance. The build was documented here back when it happened.