Height of 3 point hitch

   / Height of 3 point hitch #21  
Often the multiple holes aren’t primarily to adjust the top link height, but to adjust the sensitivity, or range, of the draft control.
That is, the mechanism that measures the draft (or pulling force) is by pulling on a “lever” that’s part of the top link connection assembly. How the top link pulls on this connection is a measure of the draft. Where the top link is connected on this “lever” (top, middle, low) either multiples or reduces the measured force being sensed by the draft control… if that makes sense.
But rather the top link is under compression when ground-engaging attachment is used, such as a plow, not tension. just sayin... The pulling is done by the lower arms.
 
   / Height of 3 point hitch #22  
Often the multiple holes aren’t primarily to adjust the top link height, but to adjust the sensitivity, or range, of the draft control.
That is, the mechanism that measures the draft (or pulling force) is by pulling on a “lever” that’s part of the top link connection assembly. How the top link pulls on this connection is a measure of the draft. Where the top link is connected on this “lever” (top, middle, low) either multiples or reduces the measured force being sensed by the draft control… if that makes sense.
It does, but how does that logic apply to tractors not equipped with draft sensing mechanisms? I have such a tractor and the owners manual calls out one of the holes to be used with a moldboard plow (don't remember which one) and whatever your preference is for the others.
 
   / Height of 3 point hitch #23  
Vigo 327 got it backwards!!! Closer in gives MORE lift power but LESS height!
No. I said lift LINKS.

Making the lift arms longer would increase range of motion of and reduce lift capacity.

Moving the lift links inboard (closer to tractor) ON the lift arms, also increases range of motion and reduces lift capacity.

I would say a lot more tractors have the 2nd adjustment and a lot fewer tractors have the 1st one.

I think the issue is that the terms for these things aren't universally accepted or are often mixed up. I might even be using a less-common name for them than whatever most people call them.. but if you just google '3pt lift arm' and '3pt lift link' it shows the components i'm referring to. "Side link" and "leveling box" are other things people call the lift links, based on whether they're adjustable in length. But the adjustment i'm talking about is when you have multiple holes on your lift arms, that you can move the bottom of the lift links to.



As I understand it, the bottom pin hole should be used when hooking up to ground contact implements (plows, rotovators, disc's, etc)
The middle pin hole is for things like Bush hogs or fertilizer spreaders, etc. Offhand, I can't remember what implements the top pin should be used for.
Of course I could be way off, (and probably am), but thats how I usually set up my tractor 3ph
So if you've got draft control that pin location would change the sensitivity as mentioned.. but another use or function of it, is it changes how the implement angles as you lift or lower it. If your top link is parallel to your lift arms, then the implement will stay at the same 'pitch' or fore/aft tilt as you raise the 3pt. If you lower the tractor end of the top link and it is no longer parallel to the lift arms, the implement will tilt/pitch forward as you raise it. This is really handy in certain cases of needing more clearance. For example, if you use the bottom hole for the top link with something like a bush hog, at max lift height the tailwheel will be MUCH higher up which could be useful for traversing creekbeds or driving it up on a trailer, etc. Would increase height on the end of a boom pole dramatically as well. But, if it's a ground engaging implement it would change your 'angle of attack' and the implement might be really sensitive to that as far as how it works. If it's a pto-driven implement it would put your u-joints out of parallel / 'out of plane' which would make them unhappy and introduce more vibration and wear than if they remained parallel.

So it's a neat adjustment to have. But, having a hydraulic top link you can easily change the length of makes moving the tractor end of the top link up and down almost totally superfluous. A hydraulic top link is a WAY superior option for making this change, than to move a manual one up and down on those pinholes.
 
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   / Height of 3 point hitch #24  
Lower arms that have adjustable length. I've never seen that. The lower arms on my Kubota M6040 have extendable tips. Aides in implement connections. However - they retract as soon as you move the tractor.

Extendable tips and hydraulic top link. As good as it will get in my case.
 
   / Height of 3 point hitch #25  
gotcha!! I misread your post! Ya the LINKS moved in would increase lift at the cost of lost lifting power. Kinda a balancing act to figure out what works for each purpose.
On my homemade 3-pt. I drilled several holes in the bottom arms to give a bit of adjustment for my many pieces of made equipment that I use on it. --- some need the arms to go to the ground and some need extra high lift so its no one setting fits all deal!
I have the slide in adapters for another tractor with fast hitch that I cant move. its not an actual 3-pt and has no adjustments so each tractor is different.
 
   / Height of 3 point hitch #26  
Lower arms that have adjustable length. I've never seen that. The lower arms on my Kubota M6040 have extendable tips. Aides in implement connections. However - they retract as soon as you move the tractor.
Well, I can only go by pics because I've never dealt with any extendable ones in person, so for all i know they're all like yours!! But I thought I had seen some where the tractor half of the lower arm was boxed and other end slid into it and you locked it in position with a pin through the assembly. Maybe I imagined that. :ROFLMAO:
 
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   / Height of 3 point hitch #27  
Well, I can only go by pics because I've never dealt with any extendable ones in person, so for all i know they're all like yours!! But I thought I had seen some where the tractor half of the lower arm was boxed and other end slid into it and you locked it in position with a pin through the assembly. Maybe I imagined that. :ROFLMAO:
I’m pretty sure you’re thinking about the Lift Link (leveling assembly) style like those found on several of Deeres CUT’s (compact utility tractors). Those have the Turnbuckle and Yoke portion Lift Link fitting inside each other, which is then covered by the handle (square tube with solid round stock welded on each side to make the handles - it’s supposed to help things turn easier when making leveling adjustments, while keeping some of the threads clean from dust and dirt when the handle is returned to its “storage position” resting on top of the pin).

E8D8E578-5F65-4661-B5F6-965F13AD759B.jpeg
 
   / Height of 3 point hitch #28  
I was thinking more like this, but in rectangular box section shape. This looks like a top link or side link but if you picture this as a lower arm, this is what i'm remembering..

1666815056242.png
 
   / Height of 3 point hitch #30  
I know what you're thinking, but it's probably not as good as you're thinking. :confused:

They are 'coilover ride height adjusters' meant for mocking up suspension on cars made or modified to use coilover shocks like these:
1666874451523.png


They ARE about the same size as a Cat0 top link, or some side links. I'm using one as a top link on my Case garden tractor. They have 5/8" ball ends. But i wouldn't use one as a side link unless you drilled out all the holes for a cross-pin bigger than 1/4".. i dont think it would hold up as a side link unless you did that. And too small to be a cat 1 top link. I AM planning to use these as the 3pt stabilizers on my little b6100 and get rid of the annoying stock ones.

They are $70/pair.
 
 

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