Hello from East Texas
- Thread starter Rick01
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Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Mar 11, 2002
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
It was also cheaper to use a resistor that changed resistance with temperature as a cold start device, vs using a bypass relay.
Stick a 4v coil on a machine and a resistor the has very low ohms cold and more when hot, and cold starts have 5ish volts on a 4v coil, then in a few seconds,the resistor warms and you have 4v on a 4v coil. Front mount ford 9n, 2n, and early 8n had this.
Stick a 4v coil on a machine and a resistor the has very low ohms cold and more when hot, and cold starts have 5ish volts on a 4v coil, then in a few seconds,the resistor warms and you have 4v on a 4v coil. Front mount ford 9n, 2n, and early 8n had this.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Ps,if the coil says internal resistor, imho, that's a Chinese kit with poor translation going on.
rScotty
Super Member
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- Apr 21, 2001
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- Rural mountains - Colorado
- Tractor
- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
That's good news. I assume that is with the resistor bypassed, better connections, and the new coil. If so, it sounds like you are almost there.
If it were mine and I was in the same place I would still replace the distributor cap, rotor cap, spark plug leads (and caps) and the high tension lead between the coil and distributor. Just because those things do get old and weathered and have a limited life because of the spark they carry is always looking for a way to escape the insulation...forming a new pathway. With those parts renewed, a tractor can be left out in the weather with a better chance of starting.
Spark plug wires MUST be the kind with real metal wire conductors - hopefully stranded copper. You never want the kind with carbon fiber for the center conductor - even though they are cheaper. And watch out for a favorite vintage trick - which is plug wire kits that have 1" long solid metal "spears" stuck in the ends to make you think it is a metal conductor cable.
glad it worked,
rScotty
I think we have gotten it. I replaced the distributor cap, points, condenser, and rotor today. And you were right on track, when i checked the wire from coil to distributor i found a spot On the wire beneath the points plate that had a small bare spot and was black from arcing. Could not see it until i took the wire loose and pulled it out. So....bad key switch, bad spot in wire, and a resistor that i didnt need. Tractor is cranking and running great ! Had a small miss before and that is gone now. Thanks everyone for your help. Now its time to start doing a little body work and then maybe a little paint. 
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Good deal.
