Hello from North Carolina

[kebo]

Hey I found out what the issue is with the electrical. There was a 3A fuse that was being held into the fuse block with some wood slivers and small metal strips because the spring contacts in the fuse block were broken off. I pushed it back in and the warning lights and gauges work fine now. I'm afraid its temporary because it will most likely vibrate loose at some point without being able to replace the contact on the wire in the fuse block.

I took the sway adjustment off and got one end on both of them broken loose but now I'm trying to figure out how to break loose the other end without messing up the threads. I got one end loose on one side then in the process the other end broke loose but I got the initial end freed jammed and can't get it back out. Im still figuring that one out. If I can get the threaded rod out I think I can replace that part without ordering it from JD.

Thanks for any help you can offer.


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Hi Brian, welcome to the forum! I also have a JD 790 and love it. I can probably help out with some of your questions. As for the adjustment links on your sway bars, it might be best to replace the one that's frozen. The threads on it look like they are pretty well boogered up anyway. Once you get them figured out, raise the implement and adjust the links so that the implement is centered behind the tractor, and has minimal movement side to side. Once they are adjusted correctly, make sure you put the little pins back in them so they won't move out of adjustment. Believe me, they will move too, without that little pin to lock the threaded shaft in place.

Does your 790 have the loader on it? If you do, most likely it's the model 70 like mine. If you have it, there's a little trick you can do to safely increase the hydraulic pressure and get a little more lifting capacity on the FEL, and on the three point lift as well. It only costs a few dollars, I did it to mine several years ago and have not had any problems with it. Something you can consider if you want too. Anyway, good luck with it.

 

[joecdeere]

Welcome Brian, those will be a lot easier to break free mounted back on the tractor, heat the frozen end up with a propane torch and touch it with some bees wax and let it cool, works almost every time. Remember one end is RH thread, the other end is LH thread.

If you shoot me your email, I have a PDF of the technical manual you're welcome to, I'm on vacation for a week, but will send when I get home next Saturday

 

[blasley]

Hi,

Thanks for your suggestion about the sway links. I'm trying to determine how to free the other end. I was thinking of welding a nut in the middle and using a wrench to grip it since its buggered anyway. It does have the Model 70 loader. Its missing the rod on the RH side of the tractor to take the loader off. I'd like to know what you did. Thanks

Brian

 

[blasley]

Hi joecdeere,

Thanks for the tip. I'll try that. I'd appreciate the manual too. I have some bees wax since I've gotten into blacksmithing a bit.

Brian

 

[blasley]

I forgot my email address. It's lasleyb@asme.org. Thanks again.

Brian

 

[kebo]

Hi,

Thanks for your suggestion about the sway links. I'm trying to determine how to free the other end. I was thinking of welding a nut in the middle and using a wrench to grip it since its buggered anyway. It does have the Model 70 loader. Its missing the rod on the RH side of the tractor to take the loader off. I'd like to know what you did. Thanks

Brian

Not sure what you are asking there? If the rod to unlatch it is missing on the RH side, you'll either have to purchase a new one (should be available from JD for lots of $$$$), or you can see about fabricating one. I would opt for the latter, if it were me. It doesn't seem to be very complicated or difficult.

 

[jenkinsph]

Hi,

Thanks for your suggestion about the sway links. I'm trying to determine how to free the other end. I was thinking of welding a nut in the middle and using a wrench to grip it since its buggered anyway. It does have the Model 70 loader. Its missing the rod on the RH side of the tractor to take the loader off. I'd like to know what you did. Thanks

Brian

A large pipe wrench should be able to break the threads free. Then chase the threads inside and install new rods. If you had the proper nuts for this you could try double nutting together and see if that will free the rod.

 

[blasley]

Not sure what you are asking there? If the rod to unlatch it is missing on the RH side, you'll either have to purchase a new one (should be available from JD for lots of $$$$), or you can see about fabricating one. I would opt for the latter, if it were me. It doesn't seem to be very complicated or difficult.

I was referring to how you increased your lift capacity for the FEL and 3 PT arms. Was it something to do with shims? Thanks

Brian

 

[kebo]

I was referring to how you increased your lift capacity for the FEL and 3 PT arms. Was it something to do with shims? Thanks

Brian

Yes, you can add shims to the relief valve and it will increase the hydraulic pressure by a modest amount. You will need a 0-3000 PSI pressure gauge to check the pressure before and after shimming it. Just don't go over 2500 PSI. The factory setting is supposed to be 2050 PSI.


Here's one of the many threads on it. Scroll down and you will see a pic of the JD shim kit with their part number on it.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/231046-790-3005-hydraulic-shimming.html?highlight=shim+790



Here's a pic of the gauge I bought from a local hydraulic repair shop for less than $30. The gauge was like $20, and the quick connect fitting was a few more dollars.

 

[blasley]

Thanks for the advice. I'll look into doing this in the future.

Brian