Hello & looking for a tractor on the MS Gulf Coast

[TheMadOne]

The L3901 is physically the same tractor as the L3301, just with a few more horses. Only place they'll show for you would be the bush hogging. You'd be able to go a bit faster, or maybe get a six footer. Loader is the same as well. The 4701 is where you see an actual size and weight jump, as well as a larger loader.

I'll admit, it's tricky, and each person has to make their own decisions, but the L3901 always sat in an awkward spot for me. The L3301 was already as much pulling HP as the machine would let you put down with R4s, and the 4.4 extra HP on the PTO is expensive for what it'll let you do.

 

[Rick in MS]

I appreciate the input. The MSRP shows the L3901HST at $22,449 and the L3301HST at $20,257. Not an insignificant difference if the (rated) 4.4 PTO HP will not be really noticeable/beneficial.

 

[newbury]

Yes - I meant L3901. The L4701 is also a tractor I've been internet shopping.

Loader capacity, the need to cut the thick, heavy grass and the need to clean the underbrush as pictured above is what has me looking at the larger tractor - even if I only use a five foot bush hog. If my thoughts are not accurate as to my needs I'd be obliged to listen to reason. I'd rather pay just a little bit more now for more power than I need than to get started and realize I don't have enough without abusing equipment.

Other than the initial purchase of a bush hog and blade I don't know what other implements I'd desire in the future. A grapple is definitely at the top of my list (my plan is to cut, sort and stack the hardwood for firewood). Also a post hole digger (this I can probably borrow from my step-dad, only requires a 500 mile round-trip to pick it up and return it). A spreader and a rotary tiller would be desirable if I get in a local hunting club and want to make food plots.

But I do keep coming back to how much is too much, or how little is too little.

I appreciate the input. The MSRP shows the L3901HST at $22,449 and the L3301HST at $20,257. Not an insignificant difference if the (rated) 4.4 PTO HP will not be really noticeable/beneficial.

And be careful - the L3901HST with FEL and QA Bucket is more like $27,000 than $22,000 per Kubota's website.
The L3301 is more like $25,500, not $20,257.

 

[mapper]

No tractor in the range you are looking at will be of much use removing stumps, rent a trackhoe or hire someone to do that. For everything else that hp range should be fine.

 

[TheMadOne]

It's beneficial, but the question only you can really answer is if it's beneficial enough to you to justify the $2,200 dollars.

And you could jimmy the numbers to go either way. Another way to look at things is dollars per PTO HP. the L3301HST has 26.2 HP, and costs $20,257. That works out to roughly $773 per HP. The L3901HST has 30.6 HP, and costs $22,449, or $733 per HP. So, technically you're paying less per HP. About $40 less, so the L3901 is a more "cost efficient" option. Not that you'd pay the MSRP at the dealer anyway, but the spread should be about the same regardless.

Either one will work, I think. Will the L3901 be better? For some things, sure. The Bush Hog won't bog down as easily, and you'll be able to cut faster. If you get a chipper it'll be able to handle things that the L3301 just wouldn't quite be able to.

And yes, I did just argue against my own previous post. Because I don't want you to think there's any hard and fast rule here. There's not. If you got a BX23S you could make it work. If you got a M7060 you could make it work. You'd be done much faster with one vs the other, but you will have also spent quite a lot more money. There is no perfect tractor. There's the one you have, and the dozens you want.

 

[Rick in MS]

There is no perfect tractor. There's the one you have, and the dozens you want.

Ain't that the truth.

 

[Rick in MS]

It's beneficial, but the question only you can really answer is if it's beneficial enough to you to justify the $2,200 dollars.

And you could jimmy the numbers to go either way. Another way to look at things is dollars per PTO HP. the L3301HST has 26.2 HP, and costs $20,257. That works out to roughly $773 per HP. The L3901HST has 30.6 HP, and costs $22,449, or $733 per HP. So, technically you're paying less per HP. About $40 less, so the L3901 is a more "cost efficient" option. Not that you'd pay the MSRP at the dealer anyway, but the spread should be about the same regardless.

Outfit as equally as possible, it appears the L3901 would be about $35 per month more than the L3301 with the L4701 another $100 above the L3901 - based on MSRP with no "deals" or rebates figured in.

Nice way of rationalizing dollar to PTO HP.:thumbsup:

I will probably be concentrating my search on the L3901 but will also keep my eyes open for a good/better deal on something more powerful.

I still welcome input from other owner/operators.

 

[jeff9366]

I will probably be concentrating my search on the L3901 but will also keep my eyes open for a good/better deal on something more powerful.

You will make a better tractor selection if you concentrate on tractor weight as your primary consideration. Tractor weight is primary factor setting tractor capability.

 

[Rick in MS]

You will make a better tractor selection if you concentrate on tractor weight as your primary consideration. Tractor weight is primary factor setting tractor capability.

Yes, but isn't weight about like HP in that different applications require different amounts? There doesn't appear to be any hard and fast rules and then I get back into how much do I need?

I have an 18' Xpress XP18CC bay boat which has a published weight of 1,045 lbs. I can, and usually do, tow that short distances with my 2012 Jeep Wrangler (manual transmission) when I go to certain boat launches. I only tow short distances because I can feel the weight pushing me when stopping/turning. Can really get the pucker factor up. I could use my quad-cab long-bed Ram 2500 with Cummins, and I do over longer distances or better boat launches, but the truck is truly overkill for towing the boat. The truck is only 2WD though and I can't get good traction with the rear wheels of the truck under water on a wet, slimy, muddy boat ramp.

If I get back to the two primary uses I will have - mowing 3 1/2 acres and maintaining 1/4 mile driveway - I could probably use any of the B or maybe even BX series. Start talking about moving those cut trees around and I'd need to move up in size. How much do I need to move up? I don't know. I could always cut the trees into smaller lengths to allow a smaller tractor to move them but I'd prefer to keep the lengths at 10 -12 feet minimum. And how much weight/HP is needed to push over/pull that underbrush out? I don't know what I don't know.

Still appreciate the feedback in helping me to understand the generalities of weights/HP required for different tasks.

 

[jeff9366]

I mow with a Land Pride (partially owned by Kubota) 5', RCF 2060 Rotary Cutter. My tractor has 37-horsepower gross, 20.9 PTO horsepower, is heavy, and has large wheels/ tires so it moves over pasture RELATIVELY smoothly. I would not want anything less than the 20.9 PTO horsepower the tractor has. Weight=inertia=less bouncing.

If I operated a 6' Rotary Cutter I would want at least 25 PTO horsepower.

A six foot cutter reduces your mowing time and number of passes over rough land, significantly. Mowing in June-July-August-September I prefer to spend minimal time making passes up and down the land.

The air-ride seat on my tractor also makes mowing rough ground RELATIVELY comfortable.