HELP, 2210 PTO problems, need electrical scematic!

[cadblaster01]

First of all I's like to say I'm Back! I lost my account password and it was attached to a now defunct email. so My post count gets reset. Oh well. I have been lurking from time to time, but now I have a real problem that I hope someone can help me with.

Yesterday I was moving the tractor around to put it back in the garage. I had to make a trip outside the fence line to retrieve a dog toy (long walk, no gate), and I decided I would go ahead and cut the grass outside the fence, but the PTO wouldn't engage. I pull the knob and nothing...A week earlier when I was mowing, it did the same thing, sort of. It didn't come on and then it did with a delay. It also cut out once while mowing, but came back on after cycling the knob. Now it won't come back on at all.

It seems like it's an electrical problem, but I don't have a service manual or a schematic to trace it out. The switch does still interlock to the safety system. If I have it engaged, the engine will stall if I get off the seat.

Also, I can't get the dash off without getting the steering wheel off, which I've been unable to do, any suggestions? It looks like it is only a press fit on a splined shaft, but I have not been able to knock it off, and I don't have the proper puller to do it, though I can get one if that's what it takes. Getting the dash off would help to trace the problem, unless I should be looking elsewhere.

Help, the grass is growing at an alarming rate! /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
I need to get this fixed!

 

[cadblaster01]

Well, I just ordered the Tech manual for my 2210. I've been meaning to do it for some time, but Geez they charged $6+ to ship a CD by UPS ground.

Does the manual show wire routing for the electric PTO or just schematics?

BTW still trying to get the steering wheel off, anyone?

We're getting a ton of rain today, you can actually see the grass grow before your eyes. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[RalphVa]

Are you sure you have the PTO selector in the right postion? I've tried to turn on the PTO to the rear and found I've had it in the front spot (usually put it there for putting the PTO on or for maintaining the rear implement, as you can turn the PTO by hand then).

If you have it in the right position, I'd then check those selector switches below that lever rather than tearing into the dash and removing the steering wheel first.

Ralph

 

[jd110]

Have you looked at the fuses? The F2 fuse powers the pto switch. The turn signals are on the same fuse, so if they are working, the fuse is ok. The power flows from the key switch to the fuse. It then travels to the PTO switch. If the pto switch is off, it then travels to the transmission neutral switch. If the pto switch is on, then the current travels to the pto solenoid. If you have a test light, start checking for current along that path until you find the loss of current. If the current is getting all the way to the solenoid, then either the solenoid is defective or you have an internal problem in the clutch or drivetrain. As far as the steering wheel, back off the nut until it is flush with end of threads. then have someone hit the nut with a brass drift while you are pulling up on the wheel. It should pop loose.

 

[ddivinia]

I woudl check the PTO selector first.

Is the PTO engaged lit on the dash?

Will the tractor start with the PTO button pulled out?

D.

 

[cadblaster01]

All I can say is it sounds like I'm in for some work. It's not the PTO selector, or the fuses. Those were the first things I checked.

JD110, I too thought about using your suggested method on the steering wheel, It just didn't seem like there was enough end play in the steering shaft. I'll definately give it a try though. BTW thanks for the wiring description, this'll make it easier to follow the path with the test light. So where should I be looking for the transmission neutral switch and the PTO solenoid?

I sure hope it's just a loose or broken wire down the line somewhere. I can only imagine what it would take to replace the solenoid. I'm sure it's in the most obscure location and probably requires massive dissassembly to gain access. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I think I'm going to try looking at the JD parts site to see what the parts blow-ups can show me

 

[mhalla]

<font color="green">Unfortunately the Technical Manual doesn't say much more about removing the sterring wheel. Mike

Steering Wheel Removal and Installation

1. Remove steering wheel center cap.
2. Remove lock nut.
3. Remove steering wheel. If necessary, use a suitable puller.

Installation:

NOTE: Lubricate the steering shaft splines and taper with general purpose grease before installing steering wheel to allow easy removal.

1. Remove white center cap plastic retaining ring from steering wheel.
2. Install steering wheel and retain with nut. Tighten steering wheel nut to specification.
3. Install plastic retaining ring to steering wheel center cap.
4. Install center cap and retaining ring to steering wheel.

Specification:

Steering Wheel Nut . . . . . . . . 39 - 49 N•m (29 - 36 lb-ft)</font>

 

[cadblaster01]

Thanks mhalla.
Geez I hope the rest of the manual isn't that bad. It sounds like it was written by a software company. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I just tried several methods to get the steering wheel off with no luck. I doubt it was ever greased at the factory, or at the dealer if they were the ones to install it. I also looked at JD parts and there is a retaining ring up under the wheel, but that's probably for the rubber boot, or a bearing retainer.

There just isn't any end play in my steering shaft to hold it up and knock it down. I did try to "tap" on the steering wheel with a large ball peen to hopefully jar it loose, but I didn't want to damage the wheel either. Looks like if I ever want to get the wheel I gotta go find a decent hook-type puller set.

I ended up pulling the cover off just below the dash to get better access to the dash. I jumped the seat switch to I could run some traces. I didn't have to go farther than the PTO switch. I removed the connector and checked for power with the test light, one slot had power. I forgot to bring up my meter from the workshop to check the switch, so I reinstalled the connector to check for power to the other two wires. I got power on them, and I tested the system, and it works. For now it looks like it must have been a loose or dirty connection. If the problem persists, I get to start all over again.

 

[JDFANATIC]

cadblaster,

Isn't your machine under warranty? A dealer should be able to troubleshoot this rather quickly.

 

[h20camper]

Here is your schematic along with the PTO switch test procedure. The PTO circuit is actually very simple. If the keyswitch is in the On position, 12v + is supplied to the PTO switch (S5), it in turn supplies 12v + to the PTO solenoid (Y3).