Help a fella pick out a tractor please (L3301 or L3901)

[RollingsFarms]

I've never owned a Kubota but have been looking at the L3301 and the L3901 lately. This won't be my main tractor but it will be used for some loader work and odd jobs around the farm, some work in the woods, etc. 30ish hp would fit the bill perfectly for the tasks I have planned for it and I've looked at them up close to make sure it was the size I wanted and it is. What I haven't decided yet is which one I want (price difference will probably be the deciding factor) and if I want DT or HST. I know I want R4's on it, loader with skid steer attach, maybe a set of forks. I'm also having trouble determining what is a fair price. I say that because the local Kubota dealers around here love doing "package deals" and I'm not interested in that, just want the tractor, loader, DT or HST and a set of forks. Idon't need any attachments but if they are willing to throw in a box blade or the forks for a big discount then cool. I'm also liking the 0% for 60 that's going on right now. I won't be paying tax since it's for ag use but how much is the Kubota insurance? I know that's added to the final price but didn't know how much it was. Has anyone been approved online through Kubota or do you just wait and do it at the dealership? I know I'll be approved just didn't know which way was easier.

 

[teg]

If you can afford it!!! L3901 HST would be my 1st choice followed by L3301 HST... I used gears a bunch and got the L2800 in HST for the wife. At first I didn't like it but now it's the only way I would go. HST is louder since you need RPM's up for work but I don't miss sore knees after working all day.

I have R4's - they don't have that much traction in mud but it also doesn't tear up the grass. I wish I had gotten R1, AG tires.

 

[mecan]

I got approved online, had a response with approval number in a matter of minutes. As far as price do the build your own on the website and figure 10 percent or so off msrp. I'm thinking my ktac insurance was somewhere around 1500 for the 5 years. Tried to block out all the prices since I signed the line and just enjoy my 2650

 

[STx]

The 0% interest deal isn't really free, ask them what the cash price is vs. the 0% financed price, there's usually a several thousand dollar difference. They're going to make their financing money one way or the other, even at 0%. If you can pay cash for it, or finance the cash price at something other than 0% and pay it off early, you'll pay less for the tractor.

 

[RollingsFarms]

The 0% interest deal isn't really free, ask them what the cash price is vs. the 0% financed price, there's usually a several thousand dollar difference. They're going to make their financing money one way or the other, even at 0%. If you can pay cash for it, or finance the cash price at something other than 0% and pay it off early, you'll pay less for the tractor.

According to their adds for tractor packages the finance price and the cash price are exactly the same. That's why I figured the quote was without Kubota insurance (required for financing I'm sure) and tax (which I'll be exempt from). That's what made me figure just to finance it since the prices were the same.

 

[mecan]

I asked when I got mine, was only 500 cheaper for cash because of some other incentive. Just what I was told, no way to know for sure

 

[tractorshopper]

Don't know where in SC you are, but Oakway Tractor in the Upstate is the most competitive (and competent) Kubota dealer in my area. I'd call to get a price. They are very fair and easy to work with. They will give you a price on the tractor with whatever you want on it or whatever you don't want on it. If I have time, I'll stop in to see what the tag on them is in the next couple days. On their lot, they have the tag with MSRP and their price listed.

For loader work, I'd definitely get the HST version of each tractor. I had the L3800 which is the predecessor of the L3901, but I know folks on here that have the L3200 that were also very happy with their tractors and I believe still would spin before running out of power just like I had. Both are on same frame, so it depends on how much the HP is worth to you.

 

[STx]

According to their adds for tractor packages the finance price and the cash price are exactly the same. That's why I figured the quote was without Kubota insurance (required for financing I'm sure) and tax (which I'll be exempt from). That's what made me figure just to finance it since the prices were the same.

When I was looking at tractors last year and considering a new Kubota, I was given a cash price that was about $2k less for a new L3901. It may be dealer dependent though, especially since you're talking about package prices.

 

[Fallon]

I have a L3200 (same as the 3301 minus tier 4 junk). I rarely miss any extra HP. At this point I have about $1,000 of regret for not getting a L3800. As it was over $2k more when I bought 2 years ago, I made a good choice.

With loaded R4s its iffy on running out of traction before running low on power. Worst case you have to ease up on the go pedal a bit in dirt work. I rarely bog the engine field mowing with a 5' rotary cutter or 7' flail. The tiller obviously puts a hurt on HP, but I can just poke along with the HST keeping it at max load without bogging trivially.

Plowing snow is usually done in M & I run out of traction before running out of power 75% of the time. I have to lay off the go pedal a bit occasionally, but never downshift.

 

[jeff9366]

KTAC insurance is $400+ per year. If you finance an expensive tractor it might be $450 per year. It only varies a little with the value of the tractor purchased.