Help bleeding diesel injection

[john_bud]

Excellent points Catman!

Kevin, HAND rotate the engine (with a wrench or long screw driver) until the timing marks on the flywheel are visible AND the timing on the pump is set to the factory specs. This one little step will save you SO much frustration later it is amazing.

Good luck!

jb

 

[RobJ]

Actually you can do this without a lot of fuss. Mainly just note where the pums is bolted to the engine (look at paint marks, etc). In the Bosch pumps I used to do the pumps had slots on the flange for adjustment. Also our engines had a gear that connected the pump the the idler inside the front cover. This gear was to large to come out with the pump, it stayed in the case. But this gear also had slots and you could line up the oil stain marks, etc. Just make sure the engine DOES NOT get turned over and the gear stays in mesh. I'm not sure with your exact config. You should be good to go.

When I got my Kubota Manual I was surprised how untechnical the timing process is. A range of 17-19 is normal. Reading it still doesn't make a lot of sense. Maybe it will when I try it. The whole "turn the flywheel until the fuel fills up to the hole.....then when it begins to run over. One day I'll run through the procedure.

Injection Timing
1.Remove the injection pipes.
2.Set the speed control lever (1) to maximum fuel discharge position.
3.Turn the flywheel counterclockwise (facing the flywheel) until the fuel fills up to the hole of the delivery valve holder (2) for 1st cylinder.
4.Turn the flywheel further and stop turning when the fuel begins to flow over, to get the present injection timing.
5.The flywheel has mark 1TC and four lines indicating every 0.087
rad. (5*) of crank angle from 0.175 rad. (10°) to 0.436 rad. (25*)
before mark 1TC.
Calculate the angle which the projection of the window points out. If the calculation differs from specified injection timing, add or remove the shim to adjust.

Injection timing Factory spec. 0.30lo033rad {17 to 19") before T.D.C.
NOTE
The sealant is applied to both sides of the shim (Soft metal
gasket shim). The liquid gasket is not required for
assembling.
Shims are available in thickness of 0.20 mm (0.0079 in.),
0.25 mm (0.0098 in.) and 0.30 mm (0.0118 in.). Combine
these shims for adjustments.
Addition or reduction of shim (0.05 mm, 0.0020 In.) delays or
advances the injection timing by approx. 0.0087 rad. (0.5*).
If disassembling and replacing the injection pump, be sure
to use the same number of shims with the same thickness.
Refer to figure below to check the thickness of the shims.

 

[cobbkevin]

Thanks folks! You have my attention!
I softly understood that the pump had to be timed prior to its removal. I'll look through the manual and pay CLOSE attention to the procedure. I'm pretty mechanically inclined so from what I remember reading it didn't seem too intimidating. The only thing that scared me off was opening up the pump myself, it definately seems like a 'qualified mechanic' only. I think I'll completely take out the battery while the pump is removed to make sure that the engine doesn't get 'accidently' turned over while the pump's in the shop.
Thanks for the advice!!! I'll report back.
Kevin

 

[CATMAN]

One more thing, I would like you to have a "killboard" ready after you get that fuel injection pump back on and you're ready to crank it over for the first time. A killbroad is just a piece of metal ("1/8 or thicker) or a piece of wood(3/8" are so) use to shut of the air flow to the engine, if there might be a problem with the fuel pump/governor after you get it back from service. Mechanics are people, too and they can make mistakes also. There should be a hose or something removable between the intake manifold and the air cleaner that one could slide in a killboard into shutoff the airflow just in of a overspeed during initail start-up. Remember its too late if you start it and the rpms go to the moon, you have to be ready before cranking(sometimes it is a two-person job). One verifies tractor in neutral and cranks, while the other person has killboard at the edge of the intake manifold just ready to shutoff the airflow if rpms don't sound normal the instant it fires up. I don't mean to be a "Nervous Nellie" about it, but I walked into our shop about 15 years ago and our night-shift didn't follow those procedures and $100,000 later ,the customer had a replacement semi-tractor and they repaired the fire damage in the shop. I worked with the Insurance company and slowly inspected the governor work and not one but two problems that allowed the overspeed. If there had only been either one but not both problems the keyswitch would have shutoff the engine.(Killboard would have worked no matter what) To this day, anyone not using a killboard on a mechanical governored engine that has had the fuel pump or governor work done to it will be fired! On fuel pump work that we do for customers that "carry-in" their pump/governor, we tie on a BIG RED TAG that says "MUST USE KILLBOARD". When they ask "What is that?" we explain it to them. Better safe that Sorry. Good Luck

 

[RobJ]

Runaways are never fun. In my career I only had 2. Both on bosch style pumps, one was having a problem and I had the side cover off already, I was able to grab the rack and pull it back, just stuck a bit. On the other I had to use my trusty 19mm (3/4") in my back pocket to take the pressure off the fuel galley, that'll kill a bosch style in quick order. I took a #2 bath on that one.

On my Kuboto I think it has the drop in plumger stype pump and the governor is actually in the front cover on the engine, like the smaller engines I use to rebuild. The injection pump has a lever that must fit into a slot in the governor arm. Mess this up and the governor arm will push the fuel lever to max on startup. That'll ruin your morning!

 

[markct]

keep in mind that not all runaway diesels are as easy to stop as cutting off the fuel at the pump or injectors. our TD9 dozer ran away on me one time because the injector pump seal leaked diesel into the crankcase and then when it was started the diesel worked its way past the rings and it ran on that the only way to stop it was to block off the air intake

 

[RobJ]

keep in mind that not all runaway diesels are as easy to stop as cutting off the fuel at the pump or injectors. our TD9 dozer ran away on me one time because the injector pump seal leaked diesel into the crankcase and then when it was started the diesel worked its way past the rings and it ran on that the only way to stop it was to block off the air intake

Option 2...RUN FOR YOUR LIFE!

 

[schmism]

keep in mind that not all runaway diesels are as easy to stop as cutting off the fuel at the pump or injectors.

a while ago they had a story about the guys that that put out all the oil well fires... and after they got the fire out, while it was still spewing oil they said it you could never get very close because the some of the well heads would spew so much LNG that the air would get so saturated that the equipment would run on it... (sucking in fuel and air in the air inlet)

 

[randydupree]

i don't think you need to pull the pump.i think you need to fill the fuel tank,charge the battery (how old is it,it may need a new one),loosen the fuel lines,have a helper spin the engine until fuel drips out,tighten the lines and give it a shot of SF,it will run.
diesels need 500 rpms to start,if you have a weak battery/starter it will never start.i've spent my life working on all kinds of diesel engines and very few pumps have been bad in my life.
something else you can do is add an electric fuel pump between the fuel tank and the injector pump,this will help on almost any engine.
randy

 

[Luchen]

I have zetor 3320 I ne so how?ed to know if the injector pump needs bleeding and if