help buying truck

[Slacker]

I drive a 1/2 ton chevy and I've found that it isn't really heavy enough to tow an 18' trailer w/legal load. I'm restoring a 1 5/4 ton M880 to be used as my tow rig, but not my daily driver. It may be more economical for you to buy a 1/2 ton driver and an older 1 ton truck to be used for towing and hauling stuff. I know it is for me. I keep minimum insurance on it, and it'll be tagged as a farm truck soon as I get things legal. Here's a bragging pic of the old tow rig in progress, don't laugh at the rattle can camo job! It pulls like a draft horse! []

 

[Marlowe]

I've been a salesman for years. My best advice to a potential customer when it comes to a buying decision is to buy a product that fits your needs most of the time. Unfortunately hardly anything fits our needs all the time. For those occasions we simply have to make do. Based that advice, you should get the half ton truck, and to satisfy your desire to be able to tow, get a tow package.

The truck that I just finally sold was a half ton Ford with the 5.0 liter. It rode great and got decent mileage, but was a real wimp when it came to towing. I made do. I never pushed the truck when towing heavy stuff and we got by just fine. The truck was well over 200,000 miles and still dependable as they come.

I then went to a Ford Super Duty with the V10. It uses a bit more gas, not bad though, and it rides a bit rougher. It feels so much more secure on the road with a load behind it though that I am much happier with the heavy suspension and the V10 is a pleasure to drive or tow with. To each their own.

 

[rcrcomputing]

I'm going with the 5.4
I have to be realistic.

Now then, I seem to have choices on gear ratio..

3.43
3.73
4.10

I'm kinda getting I need to do the 3.73??

Oh, and do I need Heavy-Duty Rear Locking Differential?

 

[Bird]

I'm going with the 5.4
I have to be realistic.

Now then, I seem to have choices on gear ratio..

3.43
3.73
4.10

I'm kinda getting I need to do the 3.73??

Oh, and do I need Heavy-Duty Rear Locking Differential?

Might as well throw in my opinion. If you're almost never going to tow and want the maximum gas mileage; the 3.43 ratio, if you're going to tow occasionally, the 3.73, and if you're going to tow a lot, the 4.10. So, yes, from what I've read so far in this thread, I'd go with the 3.73.

The locking differential adds nothing as far as towing ability, and in fact, may add to the maintenance costs. Its purpose is only to keep one wheel from spinning on a slick surface while the opposite wheel is not moving and you're stuck. So it's a good thing to have if you're going to be in mud, snow, and ice; not really worthwhile otherwise.

 

[jcmseven]

Most trucks seem to do better with the 3.73. The low to mid 3's is a little to highly geared (lower numerically) and the 4's are too low. The 3.73's are a nice compromise. Of course, the more power you have the taller gear you can run and still have it pull well. My dad's 150 has a 3.31:1 (I believe) gear with a 5.4L. It runs fine empty but bogs a bit pulling my utility trailer, even unloaded. It does not get appreciably better mileage than his previous 150 even though it was geared lower, and does not pull as well, either. I know we all have our constraints, but a diesel would likely have been best, and the new diesels drive and run really close to a gasoline engine in daily driving and have a lot more power.

John M

 

[rcrcomputing]

I thought I'd post this since it seemed relevant and helped me.

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Tow Vehicles: Diesel vs gas......................

It's 96 pages of diesel vs gas.

I believe it boils down to "do you tow quite a bit or not".
and "do you need the torque under a heavy load"
and "do you want to save gas money under the heavy load"

So to recap, I'd first like to thank all the tractorbynet guys that have helped out.

The way I'm getting it is,
I have at max 7000lb (including the trailor) I'll ever haul.
I may not haul it once a year 100 miles.
A 5.4 engine may slow down a bit on a hill.
I should be able to keep up with traffic otherwise.

So, in the end, I'm thinking the 1/2 ton will do.

This is a good thing as I'm busting the budget as it is. But who the heck wanted to spend 35000.00 and find out they screwed up!

So thanks again guys. As usuall, the guys on this site kick butt and are the most helpfull people in the world!

BTW, if you REALLY think I'm about to screw up, tell me please.

Now I'll try to go figure out why everyone says the ford 5.4 sucks!! Is there no end to this? AAAAaggghhhh

 

[drm]

...Now I'll try to go figure out why everyone says the ford 5.4 sucks!! Is there no end to this? AAAAaggghhhh

As you have found out everyone has thier oppinions. I am on my 2nd Ford with the 5.4 and feel it is a very good engine. I have had no problems with either.

The first was a '99 F-250 SuperCab light duty (basically the F-150 body with beefed up frame, suspension & brakes). I really ran this truck. Would fully load the bed and back seat (2 guys, 2 bikes and gear ~1,500lbs of load) and run 200-500 miles one way for a weekend of playing in the dirt. I purchased it with the tow package (a must if you want to tow anything) and heavy suspension. It had the 5.4 with 3.73 rear. Truck never slowed down in the mountains of PA, WV, KY, TN, etc.. It ran great. The only problem was poor service: after the 30,000 mile service the rear end (Possitraction rear) locked up at 70+ mph; one week later the tranny went. Got both rebuilt but continued to have problems until I soild it after 5 years and 50,000 mi+.

The second is a '04 F-150 Crew Cab with the 5.4 and 3.55 rear end. I have 60,000 miles in three years and it rides even better that the last and the engine is stronger and quicker. It is not a sports car but it will move if needed. Also got the tow package and load package. This truck rides better than most cars. My dad who only buys luxury cars likes riding in it. (He has a little Toyota Tacoma for projects and that thing is rough.) Only thing I would change is the rear end, should have gotten the 3.73 again. I get 1 mile per gallon better milage but the truck bogs a bit when heavily loaded on hills.

I have towed a little with both in the hills of Western PA with a little grunting on the big hills but never a problem getting up them. Highway is fine just be sure the trailer brakes are good (both axles). I highly recommend the F-150 with the 5.4 and the 3.73 rear end.

 

[arrow]

I sell trucks and I am the dealership"s "towing specialist". Been doing this for 18 years. To reiterate another salesman's post. Buy what you need that suits your everyday use the most. I don't care what brand. Get a 1/2 ton with at least 3.55 rears or close to that. Every company makes a good truck. A truck such as this will suit that in a pinch chance you might tow your tractor and will fit your life much better. Drive them all. Beware of the smoothest riding truck as those are built for the yuppy going to Home Depot to pick up a bush now and again. They are valved and sprung not for work but for comfort. Find something in the middle that is giving you not a bumpy ride but at least a taut one.

 

[burnetma]

If you do not need the payload capacity, buy the 1/2 ton. 6500 pound trailer towing on occassion is no big deal for a 1/2 ton, especially for short hauls (under 100 miles each way). The only caveat to my comment is that you are not traveling at high elevation or with a lot of hills.

 

[Woody_NH]

I will possibly NEVER haul my tractor-trailer combo. However, I'd like to be able to say I could.
I hear a f-150 or chevy 1500 will ride MUCH better for daily driving.

Sooo, you think I could do the lighter truck?
besides a towing package, what should I speck? Like 3.73 ratio?
Limited slip? Or non-limited slip?

I'm confused by it all...

Well I have read the many responses you have received, all good observations. My previous truck was a ‘97 Dodge Ram 1500 which I liked a lot. We got a larger horse trailer which when loaded runs about 6,000 lbs. I upgraded to a ’04 Dodge Ram 2500 and am happy to have the extra capacity. The whole vehicle (as would a Ford 250 or a Chevy 2500) has a stronger frame, axels and drive train relative to a 1500(150). My theory is to decide how much truck (or whatever) you need now and then to up the capacity by at least 50%. You are hardly ever sorry for buying a little more than what you think you need.

By the way, the 2500 rides just fine. Suggest you try a 250/2500 for yourself and look at the specs. As for limited slip, if you will ever be driving in the snow, the limited slip will help some but any 2wd pick-up will still suck in snow. Here in snow country almost all trucks are 4wd and many also have limited slip.