Help converting tractor FEL to Quick Attach System

[brkdrvr]

Hello, I'm not sure where this post should go so here it is: In preparation for starting our Pole Building/Apartment project. I'm getting ready to pull to bucket off my Kioti KC20 HST and begin the process of installing loader plate latch on my loader are and adapter plate on my bucket. The first issue I have is the Kioti's bucket is curved unlike the bucket of every FEL/Quick attach article/video I have found. The second issue is the FEL's size both physical dimensions (arm width) and lift capacity. I sourced a set of latch plates without the cross bar and a mounting plate with cut out center ( really two plates connected at top) with the idea of limiting weight. I also found a decent deal on a Land Pride quick tatch Pallet Fork set for compact tractors.

I understand the concept of maintaining the FEL pins orientation-angle/position with the bucket at rest but I am unsure how to proceed after cutting the pin plates off the curved bucket. I can remove/flatten the curve and weld on the latch plates and then weld the adapter plate to the bucket at the same angle using some sort of spacers or plates welded too the back of the bucket to copy the angle (would seem to be tilted fairly far forward from vertical/perpendicular from ground. however how will this affect when I "pick up" and use the Pallet forks considering the mounting plate is basically perpendicular to the ground? Part of my dilemma is that since my tractor/FEL's lifting capacity is fairly limited and I'm already adding @40# of latch to arms and 60# of plate to bucket I know I should stay as tight to the original distances as possible ie every inch the implement is moved forward also reduces lifting capacity.

I am also having issues with the with of the loader arms in relation to the mounting area on the latches as well as the holes in the Quick Tatch plate The arm are @ 31 5/8" on CTR and it appears that clearance issues may require welding heavy spacers or even boxing over the entire latch mechanism to use the "normal" Quick Tatch bottom holes.

I will try and attach some picture to show the problems and am hoping someone has dealt with these issues and has some solutions. I appreciate any ideas particularly relating to the curved bucket back.

Thanks, Mike

 

[billybobjimmyjoejack]

Starting with the curved bucket, I would have the bucket at rest on the ground and would mark a plumb line between the loader arm pins and the curve on the back of the bucket. I would think if you are within a few degrees of plumb that would be close enough. Then you could weld the SSQA plate directly to the ears remaining on the back of the bucket. I had to add 1 3/4" to the ears that attach to the loader for enough clearance for the SSQA mechanism. I used the same thickness of material as my original manufactured bucket ears. I think once you have a better idea of the overall width for the QA brackets on the loader arms it might just fit the standard backer plate without modifications.

 

[crackerjack222]

Looks like I will be following this thread. I just bought a Titan rock grapple with SSQA attachment. My John Deere 6405 tractor has a screwy JD QA setup that no one makes implements for. I did find an adapter, but it cost way more than it is worth. So, I have bought the "center cut-out" SSQA plate to weld on to the back of the bucket and a pair of the SSQA latch assemblies. I plan to change the tractor to SSQA after I finish another job with the bucket as is, and when the weather cools off a bit in south TX. Just too dang hot after noon for this old far_ to work outside or in an open barn.

 

[Everhard]

I had a ck20 and did this, for the bucket I got the right line by working off of where the original pins were. As long as you build the surface parallel to where those pins were it should be good.

For the loader arm side yes the arms are closer together, on the receiving plate there's a big slot or small slot option for the pin to go into, I used the small slot, that line up with the pins on the inside of the arms. I've not done the same thing on my ck2510 which is almost the same dimensions.

E.

 

[brkdrvr]

I had a ck20 and did this, for the bucket I got the right line by working off of where the original pins were. As long as you build the surface parallel to where those pins were it should be good.

For the loader arm side yes the arms are closer together, on the receiving plate there's a big slot or small slot option for the pin to go into, I used the small slot, that line up with the pins on the inside of the arms. I've not done the same thing on my ck2510 which is almost the same dimensions.

E.

I had a ck20 and did this, for the bucket I got the right line by working off of where the original pins were. As long as you build the surface parallel to where those pins were it should be good.

For the loader arm side yes the arms are closer together, on the receiving plate there's a big slot or small slot option for the pin to go into, I used the small slot, that line up with the pins on the inside of the arms. I've not done the same thing on my ck2510 which is almost the same dimensions.

E.

Interesting my preliminary measurements looked like the smaller close set holes in the adapter plate might work, I will then have to add those “holes” to the Quick Attach plate in the pallet fork set which lacks them. I have to ask do you recall the style of latch plates you used mine are a single plate with the latch mechanism exposed as opposed to the type that I would call boxed with the latch mechanism enclosed. I have measured and tried to mock up mounting the latch plates just inboard of the arms which looks like it would work with the inner adapter plate holes but it appears that I might have to stand off with some spacers so the disconnect pins have enough clearance. I thought about cutting the mounts off my bucket and just going at it but I really would like to have a pretty clear plan to minimize down time and scrambling for materials. I would also ask how did you remove the ears from bucket ? Cutting wheel, torch, plasma? & how did you prep, place and attach new mounting plate? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks for the reply. Mike

 

[Everhard]

So I used those small tabs as I mentioned, the latching plates you got fit inside the arms nicely, I welded extra plate to the outside of the flat plate - from the top edge down a few inches so that it goes up into the corner of the receiving plate.
Once I had it completed I don't think the final product had the bucket set any further out which I'm very happy about. I'll try and get some pic's - but when it's not pissing rain... Apparently there's the remnants of a hurricane passing thru...
The ears I cut off with a cutting torch. Sorry I don't have any pics of the CK20 - I think if you search there are a few people that have done it though.

 

[Everhard]

I think you got the same latches I got -

Amazon.ca

E.