Help designing a disc harrow.

   / Help designing a disc harrow. #1  

Pa Pa Jack

Silver Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2011
Messages
152
Location
Hodges, SC
Tractor
Mahindra 3016
I have quite a bit of steel tubing and other assorted parts, and would like to begin to design a 5 1/2 foot wide disc for my Mahindra.

I am asking for suggestions of ideas that those of you with a lot more experience might have come acrossed during your years of usage.

What would you like to see or change about your disc setup?
 
   / Help designing a disc harrow. #2  
Pa Pa in meantime might wanna do a TBN search. Some folks here have fabricated there own 3 pt disc harrows and have come out real nice.

Boone
 
   / Help designing a disc harrow. #3  
Leinbach machinery in in NC

Get one of there manuals that shows and exploded view of the parts.
Go there and pick a unit you would like then ask them to email you
the maunaul w/ exploded view parts list and and will see parts and
numbers. It will be a good place to start I think.

They sell direct too I think. CLICK HERE
 
   / Help designing a disc harrow. #4  
a couple pieces of L channel on top. so i could place 8x8x16" concrete blocks, or some 6x4's or 6x6's or rail road ties. i have a 2 bottom plow, but at times i do not want to plow. and trying to get the discs to cut in to depth that i want, it would be nice to have some extra weight so i do not have to make as many passes.

i have had no need to. but being able to adjust the "angle" of each gang. assuming 5 1/2 feet disc having 2 front gangs of discs and 2 rear gang of discs.

extra front weights on the tractor. disc can be much like a bush hog (rotatory cutter) and when ya go to turn up into a hill, you may find your front tires are off the ground. or as your back tires are still in the dirt and come up into the grass for dealing with a garden, your front tires may come off the ground some. or become extremely light in the front.

i been tempted to make 2 to 3 holes for spot were top link connects to disc. so i can lift the disc "higher" for transporting the disc through the hills on the this farm. vs having to adjust the top link. so when i go down and then back up a small hill, the rear of the disc does not begin dragging. other words easier to set disc down and redo a pin, vs turning the turnbuckle on top link multi times. granted if you have TNT (top and tilt) errr hydrualic cylinder for top link, that would solve things as well. you might think of welding a heavy duty chain for top link on disc. and then going to a U hook to a eye bolt for top link as well.

one thing i dislike about 3pt hitch discs. is when you go into a sharp turn. you need to raise the disc up. or risk cracking a disc. have been tempted to see how a tow able disc would work that had a couple wheels that raised lowered via hydraulic cylinder. tow able as in. disc hooked to draw bar and pivoted on the draw bar much like a trailer would. and see if the disc would track / move gently enough without cracking / bending the discs. then again, i do 180 degree turns on a dime with left or right rear tire. that may be a bad idea.

not sure what they are called, on some pictures i have seen here on TBN. i have not seen them. the disc i have. has some metal pieces that stick almost right up against each disc along there sides. and helps remove any mud / sticky dirt. or tree roots that might get caught up / hang up on a disc. i have bent a few, and had to heat up the metal and bend them back into place. but seems like a big saver for me. and keeping the discs clean enough of mud to allow them to do what they are suppose to do.
 
   / Help designing a disc harrow. #5  
My main suggestion is to build it using heavy square tube framing so it's strong enough to carry added weight if you need it, and so it has enough weight on its own to do most light jobs you need to do. You might want to consider adding a device that will allow you to securely attach added weight, a feature you won't find on most commercial units. Also, and this doesn't really address your question, but at this site Pacific Ag Wholesalers, Inc. (PAW) Online | Tillage tools, cutlivator equipment, ag parts you can look at their PDF files of parts and pieces for just about any tillage equipment you need. They are wholesale only, but if you need parts (axles, bearings or whatever) they could probably tell you who their dealers are in your area for buying or ordering parts you can't make yourself. I've seen quite a few disc harrows like you want to build go fairly reasonably at auctions so, unless you really want to make your own, you can probably save time, and maybe money, at an auction. Of course, if you have the time and interest to build your own, it's understandable why you would want to.
 
   / Help designing a disc harrow. #6  
You can surely buy a slightly used one for 25% of what it cost you to build one. The blades and spacers being the things you cant build and they are going to cost you at least $25 per blade @9" spacing x 2 (front and rear gangs)= around $200 just for blades. I have no idea on spacers but suppose that they arent cheap, then 4 bearings and bearing holders.
Just a little thought on the subject and a really good heavy used 5-6 foot disc can be bought for around $500.
 
   / Help designing a disc harrow.
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I realize that in some parts of the country, these are common. Around here they are not common in the used market. When you do find a decent one, they sell quite high. I already have most of the steel needed to build a good frame and have the welder and time.(I am retired).

My primary goal was to find ideas where people think they can improve on certain areas of a harrow. Such as the suggestion to make allowances specifically to add extra weights.
 
 

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