Ok, I'm still frustrated. I removed the starter and it checked good at the auto parts store. Then I removed all the wires to the alternator after replacing the starter and the voltage leek stopped when all wires were pulled at the same time............ I guess the short is making pulling one at a time misleading. So I took the alternator out and brought it to the auto parts store. He found information on a similar 50amp starter to feed into the computer of the tesor and it passed at first, then asked for arecheck.
It's putting out about 15.5volts but........
It failed for ripple with a value of 2.5 and on lamp with a value of about 15. Can someone explain to me what that means? Local dealers want $280 with a core trade in for a rebuilt unit. Then it's about $600 for a new one. So I'm wanting to fix this one if possible or try to find an automotive equivalent but the parts cross reference just don't pan out. Either it has the wrong bracket, or the wront pulley or the wrong plug etc........ I've seen some on ebay for about $85 but they are 50 amp and my original was 55. I'm thinking I need to get a 55 or maybe even a 60 or 65 amp to make sure I have enough juice available for my extra 20 amps of worklights.
Can anyone help me cross reference a part that will work and not cost an arm and a leg. It seems this is a standard mitsubishi Alternator A7TA1777 alternative part number 185046380. Does anyone have the ability to cross this to an automotive applications like a Mitsubishi or dodge truck with 50-70 amps of output? Will I hurt anything by increasing the output capacity of my alternator?
Only thing hurt will be a slight impact on fuel economy. Slight as in probably too small to even notice.
If you found a cross alt that has the right bracket and plug but the pulley is too SMALL, that will probably be ok. I'd worry about too large as that will slow the rotations and drop output at low rpms.
RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Uh.. slight as in NONE.. come on guys.. use some physics here.
mechanical load by the alternator is a FUNCTION of electrical load... if you are looking at a 55a and a65a alternator, and the electrical load on the tractor is say.. 40a.. then both alts are gonna put out 40a thus the same electrical load.. thus the same mechanical load.. since those two alts are probably the same physical size, bearings and whatnot.. should be same mechanical load..... sheesh...
they don't put out max charge all the time, and thus max mechanical load.......
that's why they have regulators in them, and not simple cutouts and tickle switches like back in the old days with old hi-lo charge knobs, or lamp/ticklers like IH and AC used.. etc.. or screw adjust 3 brush gennies like the early N series.. etc...
Follow up. I took my alternator to a local shop for a rebuild. The inside had overheated and the solder began melting leaving streaks of solder at the back of the unit. The alternator was definitely my prbolem. I had been clearing late summer brush and the weed dander had plugged my grille a few times in the last month forcing me to get down and wipe away the suffocating blockage from my hood screen so my engine temp would come back down to normal. However, the alternator had some debri in the cooling fins of the rectifier and it seems that periodic preventative maintenance of the alternator with compressed air is in order in the future. Simply washing out the radiator periodically was not enough to prevent catastrophic alternator meltdown with this internal fan unit. I think solder melts at about 300 degrees so I know the unit must have been getting "VERY HOT". I am going to pick up the rebuilt alternator later today and hope it fixes my problem. edge08
1974 IH 1066, 1969 IH 756/FEL, and 2011 TYM T603 Cab/FEL
[QUOTE="edge08"I had been clearing late summer brush and the weed dander had plugged my grille a few times in the last month forcing me to get down and wipe away the suffocating blockage from my hood screen so my engine temp would come back down to normal. However, the alternator had some debri in the cooling fins of the rectifier and it seems that periodic preventative maintenance of the alternator with compressed air is in order in the future. Simply washing out the radiator periodically was not enough to prevent catastrophic alternator meltdown with this internal fan unit. I think solder melts at about 300 degrees so I know the unit must have been getting "VERY HOT". I am going to pick up the rebuilt alternator later today and hope it fixes my problem. edge08[/QUOTE]
An old trick we used on our old tractors was to put some regular screen material over the front screen. That kept out a lot of the small weed seeds and such. Still have to watch the temp gauge and if it starts getting hot shut down for a minute. That would let a lot of the crud fall off the screen and you can wipe the rest away.
The screen size on the New Holland is already much smaller than the older ford size.
I need one last piece of information. My rebuilder who is about a 30 mile round trip and probably closed for the weekened forgot to put the ground screw back on my case.............. So now I've got to go to the auto parts locally and see if they have one I can have from a core return. Does anyone know the thread size of the hex hed/phillips ground screw on a mitsubishi alternator?????????????????? I've got everything back together and the battery is on the charger. The only thing keeping me from cranking up the tractor is one negative terminal screw to the case on the alternator. When I went to put it back together I said to myself, OK, plug here, red wire there..... uh, where does this black wire go???? Went back to pictures and said, Oh S$#%@ they kept my ground screw during the rebuild. I'm going to be even more upset if this thing isn't fixed right..............
RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
is the alternator not grounded to the chassie? or is it some sort of isolated base alterantor ( have seen those! ) if it is grounded to chassie.. you should be able to adapt that wire over to a fitting onthe mount bracket.. or chassie.. etc. common ground is common ground. what about a case halves screw.. convert the ring terminal to say.. a open ring and slip it in and tighten back down?
Edge, I just came across your thread. According to my parts diagrams, the screw you are missing is an M5-10. This is from New Holland's parts list. You should be able to find those in any place that carries a metric screw assortment like auto parts stores. Even Tractor Supply has metric sizes in their specialty hardware cabinets.
BTW: That ground hookup on the back of the alternator is really not necessary if you keep all the alternator mounting brackets tight and the adjustment screw especially. That is just a safety ground in case the alternator bolts get loose. Normally you have ample ground through the body of the alternator. Below is a photo of my alternator where you can see the ground attached to the case and also my circuit diagram showing the grounded alternator.
I guess the short is making pulling one at a time misleading. So I took the alternator out and brought it to the auto parts store. He found information on a similar 50amp starter to feed into the computer of the tesor and it passed at first, then asked for arecheck.
