Help me build my pole barn 30x40x16

[mfairbank]

In terms of shear strength through bolts are better, but when your doing it for a living every dollar and minute counts. Pole barn spikes are cheaper and take a lot less time to install. The key really though is the blocking under. If you cut blocking (squish blocks) to fit between all of your purlins/header/skirt board then you are also using all of them to distribute the load of the roof into the column.

As I said though, thats just the way that I do it. I use 2 16d nails and 2 pole barn spikes at every purlin (3 each for 2x6) I also use either 2 2x8 skirt boards, or 3 2x6's typically.

I read your other post about the lasers. If you can find one in your price range then go for it, but be aware that some of the low end one can get knocked out of tollerance fairly easy. Personally I would either rent one for a day, or try to find a name brand used one in good condition (but I also shy away from the big box store tools)

I would also like to thank you for your service. God speed

The other day i was just lookin at my drawings and trying to figure out a better way to support the trusses and header. And i came up with using "squish boards" you call it between all my purlins and headers the weight would be distributed all the way down to ground level. Then i started to think maybe its just a little to excessive. but now that you have been doing the same thing on your pole barns....im guess im on the right track for bracing the header and trusses.
Instead of using pole barn spikes on my purlins/girts/skirt board im going to be using screws, probably about 3-1/2 to 4" decking screws. Is decking screws allowed on purlins/girts/skirt boards or would i be better off using pole barn spikes??

here is a drawing i came up with the other day....any comments on it and better ideas would be greatly appriciated
This is just a picture of the support between the 6x6 posts

 

[tommu56]

I used a HF $30.00 laser level

I pounded a bunch of stakes in the ground to be leveled.
Waited till dusk set the level up and aimed the lazer at the stakes and marked them with a pencil at the red dot on them.
Figured the high and low spots the next day did the grading to my marks.

tom

 

[Wolfy]

Deck screws spin out easy. A better choice would be ledgarlocks/timberlocks, heavy duty hex drive screws. I used them when I redid the purlins on my 1700's house roof. Very tough fasteners. Expensive but forever.

 

[cantbeatadeere]

this is perfect timing on this thread, I am in the process of clearing for a 32x56 14' pole barn and some of my questions are being answered. I am going with a 5-12 pitch and 2 foot centers along with a 12 foot (front) and 8 foot (rear) slidding doors with an interior loft for storage along the width of the rear.

 

[Wolfy]

Cantbeatadeere, if you want a lifetime roof, either go 16" oc, or use 3/4" plywood. Those little metal H-clips just create misery, and often the plywood still dips where the clips are. A "good idea" that isn't.

 

[fowllife]

Screws don't have nearly the shear value of nails & they take a lot longer to put in, thats why I nail everything. Your diagnol bracing would be a good idea on the end bays, but wouldn't be needed in the center of the building. The more critical bracing for your building would be from the post to the truss. Since your building is so tall and narrow I would take a 2x6 and diaginally brace the post to at a minimum the bottom truss cord, or even better the bottom & top cord to the post.