Help me decide on a herbicide sprayer

Briar Hill Brittanys · Feb 14, 2012

The diagram shown below is more complicated, but shows the flow. This link is the complete article I used http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/442/442-452/442-452_pdf.pdf . The picture of my sprayer manifold shows a much simplified version. The gauge shows 40 PSI, which is recommended pressure for the tips/rate of application. The pressure is regulated by the regulator, just to the left of the gauge. Adjust up or down by the brass T handle in the top of the regulator. The inlet of the regulator is the black line coming from below at the roller pump. The line discharging into the tank is the relief bypass, which I use as an agitator. To the right of the gauge is a ball valve that controls flow to the boom. The picture shows the valve open, product is flowing through the boom tips, excess is flowing through the bypass of the regulator. To start the application, I engage the PTO, bring the RPM up to achieve needed pressure, drive to start of application area, adjust the height of the boom, reach back and open the ball valve. In my other post I'd mentioned the upgrade of a 12V solenoid valve, then I'll just have to flip a switch to begin application. In the picture, below the gauge, is a plug. This is the point I plumbed in my spray gun for spot spraying. Installed an el, another ball valve, enough hose to reach to the drivers station, and viola. These are the solenoid valves I'll be using, CountyLine Solenoid Shut Off Valve - 2113176 | Tractor Supply Company . I found a seller on ebay that had them new in the package for quite a bit cheaper, even with shipping. On my sprayer, I have a suction line strainer and strainers before each tip. I've never had a problem with it in the dozen or so times I've used it. Probably takes longer to clean up than to hook-up and use. I studied a little about the boomless nozzle, liked the boom for better, more precise application. The last picture shows a booms-eye view of the spray pattern at 40 PSI. Spacing on the boom is 20", height above ground is 20", giving solid coverage. You can also see the bottom of the tank, suction strainer, and the inlet line to the roller pump. One reason I'm changing tanks is to eliminate the low spot in the suction line, fluid always settles there. That will allow me to shorten the stand legs. Oh, check out this thread. Very nice workmanship, http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/211044-my-borg-sprayer-update.html . HTH Mark

HCJtractor · Feb 14, 2012

Thanks for pix of yours. I just checked out the thread you mentioned and all I can say is "Dam..." What a project. I thought I was ****! His sprayer is pretty impressive. I think if I build one, it may be a little more primitive and certainly not as esthetic. Pretty cool however and includes lots of ideas to consider. How about some more pix of yours from other angles?

Briar Hill Brittanys · Feb 16, 2012

HCJtractor said:
Thanks for pix of yours. I just checked out the thread you mentioned and all I can say is "Dam..." What a project. I thought I was ****! His sprayer is pretty impressive. I think if I build one, it may be a little more primitive and certainly not as esthetic. Pretty cool however and includes lots of ideas to consider. How about some more pix of yours from other angles?

:laughing: Can you say attention to detail? Here's some more pics of mine. Thanks for the motivation, I got out the grinder and chopped the beejeebers out of mine yesterday. It's just a bare frame now. I'll get some shots of the in progress action. Going to try to clean up the design a little and incorporate some of mjncads's ideas into it, the pictures of the "borg sprayer" are shaming me into it.

Mark