Help Me!! Electrical question - 2004 LK3054XS

[JoelD]

Hi all,
First, hello, been a long time.
OK, here we go.
Started tractor no problem 2 nights ago, ran for an hour as I dropped hoe and hooked up snowblower.
Shut her down.
Next night, after 2 feet of snow, I turn key back and glow plugs, turn key and not even a click, nothing, then no glow plugs, no lights, nothing. Hook up jump pack, still nothing. Hook up different jump pack nothing.
I close the hood, try blinkers and they worked, hooked up jump pack again, glow plugs worked, then nothing when turn to start. I have clutch down etc.
Then no lights, nothing. I turn light on and dull, fast clicking sound, shut lights off and sound stops.
I cleaned the battery ground still nothing.
Now with jump pack nothing.
I was convinced it was ground but that is now clean.
I'm at a loss.
Thank god for my plow truck or I'd been in a world of hurt.
Any and all thoughts welcomed!!
Thanks all,
Sincerely,
Joel

 

[Patches]

Did you jump the system by hooking to the hot stud on the starter and a good clean ground on the chassis thus eliminating the tractor's e-system? If not give that a try; these things have a history of the chassis ground corroding under the ground cable attatchment on the right frame rail where you can't see it unless you remove the ground

 

[JoelD]

Hi Patches!
I removed the ground where it attaches to the frame and sanded down the frame and the ground. I tried hooking jump pack to positive and then to frame (did a poor job of it in the blizzard), and still nothing. But I'll go through those steps again. In the past cleaning the ground cable to the frame connection has done the trick, this time, nothing. I'll break out the volt and continuity meter and starting check through.
I was surprised the cleaning the ground cable then hooking jump pack and still nothing, only a bit of a groan when turned the lights on, the lights would not illuminate but there was a groan.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Sounds like a bad battery cable. Try bypassing each battery cable with jumper cables. Alternatively, try connecting your jump pack positive lead to the big stud in starter solenoid (where battery cable is connected) and the negative lead to clean bare metal ground somewhere near the engine. These stock battery cables have history of corroding inside insulation, where it can't be seen. You can replace a bad cable one automotive cable available locally, just natch the length, terminals, and wire gauge.

 

[JoelD]

Thanks guys, I'll try the jumper cable bybass, Great advice
Joel

 

[JoelD]

hooked positive jumper to starter terminal, hooked negative to stud holding on alternator. Got the machine started no problem. I super hope this post helps others. This is second time I've had similar problem and I refused to believe it was something as simple as battery or battery cables. I'll replace battery and cables and should be good to go. Super pleased it is something simple. These machines start and run well in the cold. Again, thanks all, super appreciated!!! Saved me a ton of grief. and I hope others find this post and get some value. I know there's others including me who've posted similar but just hard to believe that cables can act as they do. First thing to check is always battery and then cables and the jump pack trick was by far the easiest way to test that out. Now I know all else after battery and cables work, fuses, ignition switch, etc.

 

[JoelD]

Replaced the negative battery cable yesterday and she runs new again, amazing how something so simple can go wrong. I replaced with EverStart LF19-2-77. This is a 2 gauge, heavier than original, fits perfect length and thickness wise, however the frame end is slightly and I mean very slightly thicker than original, I used a longer bolt I found in my spare bolts bin. If not for lock washer, original bolt would've worked.

 

[flingwing1969]

hooked positive jumper to starter terminal, hooked negative to stud holding on alternator. Got the machine started no problem. I super hope this post helps others. This is second time I've had similar problem and I refused to believe it was something as simple as battery or battery cables. I'll replace battery and cables and should be good to go. Super pleased it is something simple. These machines start and run well in the cold. Again, thanks all, super appreciated!!! Saved me a ton of grief. and I hope others find this post and get some value. I know there's others including me who've posted similar but just hard to believe that cables can act as they do. First thing to check is always battery and then cables and the jump pack trick was by far the easiest way to test that out. Now I know all else after battery and cables work, fuses, ignition switch, etc.

Regarding brand new battery cables. My old CJ5 got new cables a few years ago and ran well for a while. Then, out of the blue, it wouldn't start - got a replacement starter from the shelf and installed it and it worked like a charm. Ran it a while and the same thing happened. I then pulled off the starter cable and saw that the factory had put one end of the fitting on and crimped it onto the cable's insulation, not to bare wire - just a tiny part of the connector touched bare wire and wiggling it would compromise that connection. Check your new cables before you install them, just a quick look is all you need.

 

[PILOON]

My tip to anyone jumpstarting is to ground the neg cable onto an engine casting as that way U eliminate any and all bad grounds.
(I learned this from jump starting GM products with those terrible side terminals.)
Also manually connecting to the starter + post eliminates any relay problems.

LOL, I helped a Subaru owner to replace his (supposedly) bad battery.
I did not need any tool to remove his + cable as it was 'finger lose'.
(and he was an electrical engineer)

 

[Oaktree]

These machines start and run well in the cold.

I wouldn't go so far as to say that. Runs well once you get it started, but it can be a PITA to start if it gets below 20° or so. Multiple glow-plug cycles, and it clatters and clacks something awful for the first few minutes once it starts. The old 100W droplight under the hood trick helps. Keep intending to put in a block heater, but never seem to get around to it.

A piece of cardboard in front of the radiator helps it warm up faster in cold weather too.

Don't remember my old JD750 being this cold blooded.