Rotary Cutter Help me find the right slip clutch

MMalabama · Jul 11, 2017

Hello,

I want to put a slip clutch on my Bush Hog 305. Right now its just straight spline shaft. My problem is the male shaft on my 305 doesn't have the recessed ring on it to where most slip clutches connect with a wedge type bolt. Instead, mine just has a small(1/4") hole drilled in the shaft for you to put a small bolt(not shear pin) in there to hold the PTO shaft to the 305. Can you help me locate a slip clutch to work with my configuration or help me come up with another solution?

Texasmark · Jul 11, 2017

Why not just abandon the whole idea. Personal preference but a slip clutch is only as good as it's ability to slip at the designed time. Anything else is damage to your equipment or lack of performing the task at hand. They require maintenance that a bolt doesn't and in suffering through having to change one, just think about this: It worked as designed.....no wondering will it shear when it's supposed to. Save yourself some money and time too.

Rara Avis · Jul 11, 2017

Bush Hog 35 and 36 Rotary Cutters Parts 35 and 36 Rotary Cutters Driveshaft Assembly W/Clutch P/N 76747(ASAE Cat. 4), Manufactured by Comer / EG, Replaces 9346 Driveshaft; Driveshaft Assembly W/Clutch P/N 76725 (ASAE Cat. 5 Heavy Duty), Manufactured

MMalabama · Jul 11, 2017

ok so here are some pictures of the current configuration. As you can see the BH shaft does not have a recessed ring, and the PTO shaft is just held on with a bolt, I'm not sure if the clamp on or wedge type connectors will work with my BH shaft. That PN that you gave me even if it will work is kinda pricey at 500$+, with is 2x as much as i have seen with other shafts. If the clamp on type will work even without the recessed ring like what is on the tractor shaft let me know.

Rara Avis · Jul 11, 2017

MMalabama said:
ok so here are some pictures of the current configuration. As you can see the BH shaft does not have a recessed ring, and the PTO shaft is just held on with a bolt, I'm not sure if the clamp on or wedge type connectors will work with my BH shaft. That PN that you gave me even if it will work is kinda pricey at 500$+, with is 2x as much as i have seen with other shafts. If the clamp on type will work even without the recessed ring like what is on the tractor shaft let me know.View attachment 515137 View attachment 515138 View attachment 515139 View attachment 515140 View attachment 515141 View attachment 515142

You appear to need their clutch assembly - #11 on that post AND you also appear to need the Taper Pin Kit #76064 shown in the picture below the shaft assembly picture

Call the Parts Support people at (855) 667-0970 and they can probably give you better answers than I can...

Leejohn · Jul 11, 2017

Check this out. PTO Shaft, PTO Parts, PTO Adapter, PTO Power Take Off, Eurocardan

MMalabama · Jul 11, 2017

Looks like this will do it

Fallon · Jul 14, 2017

The PTO shaft I got for my flail mower has an inline sheer pin in it. The offset bulge on the end of the yoke is the sheer pin & it connects to the normal splined input shaft. I wasn't looking for a sheer pin at all as the belts on the flail will slip for protection, but the shaft with the sheer pin was the cheapest option. Forgot where I got it though.

If you don't need frequent protection a sheer pin is MUCH less work than a clutch. It takes me half an hour at least to do the annual spring maintnance on my tiller clutch. Took a day or to to tear apart & rebuild the Walterschield clutch on my recently acquired used 3pt trencher. 0 minutes of maintnance in 3 years on my rotary cutter with a sheer pin. If you don't do the annual maintnance on the cluch it's useless. I backed off all the blolts holding my tiller clutch together so all the springs were loose & jammed a 2x4 into the tines. Fired up the PTO & watched the tiller cut 2/3 of the way through the 2x4 powered by nothing but the rust & gunk gluing the clutch plates together. If you add the normal clamping force to that they will never slip. So make sure you keep up with the anual (or more often) maintnance of loosening the clutch up & letting it slip to clean up the disks.

LD1 · Jul 14, 2017

Making a mountain out of a mole hill here.

I'll give you 3 simple options,

1. It the slip clutch you buy don't have the 1/4" hole to retain it to the bushhog shaft.....Drill one. Its not under any extreme load. The splines do that. The bolt is to just keep it on the shaft.

2. IF the clutch you buy dont have the bolt but has the pin designed to be in a groove in the splines (like most tractor side PTO shafts), then just grind the little groove in ONE of the splines on the bushhog.

3. Put the clutch on the tractor side PTO shaft.

Texasmark · Jul 14, 2017

Fallon said:
The PTO shaft I got for my flail mower has an inline sheer pin in it. The offset bulge on the end of the yoke is the sheer pin & it connects to the normal splined input shaft. I wasn't looking for a sheer pin at all as the belts on the flail will slip for protection, but the shaft with the sheer pin was the cheapest option. Forgot where I got it though.

If you don't need frequent protection a sheer pin is MUCH less work than a clutch. It takes me half an hour at least to do the annual spring maintnance on my tiller clutch. Took a day or to to tear apart & rebuild the Walterschield clutch on my recently acquired used 3pt trencher. 0 minutes of maintnance in 3 years on my rotary cutter with a sheer pin. If you don't do the annual maintnance on the cluch it's useless. I backed off all the blolts holding my tiller clutch together so all the springs were loose & jammed a 2x4 into the tines. Fired up the PTO & watched the tiller cut 2/3 of the way through the 2x4 powered by nothing but the rust & gunk gluing the clutch plates together. If you add the normal clamping force to that they will never slip. So make sure you keep up with the anual (or more often) maintnance of loosening the clutch up & letting it slip to clean up the disks.

I have this type setup on my JD baler. First off it's under a protective cover. Second I remove the bolt and slide it around every few years to apply some grease on the flange. Last I don't tighten the bolt, using a self locking nut and leaving it slightly loose.

I do the same with my regular "hole in the shaft" shear bolt installations allowing for a little slop which allows a little vibration which keeps the interfaces worn slick, ready to shear when needed.