Help me put together the ULTIMATE aux hyrdaulic setup.

avc8130 · Sep 10, 2013

MtnViewRanch said:
As a diverter it would make no difference, but you will have fluid flowing through that true 3rd function 100% of the time. I would use whatever size the OEM line is. There is a reason for that size, and that reason is so the fluid doesn't heat up and you have full unrestricted flow when you need it. Do as you will, you are the one that has to deal with the out come. There is a good chance that all will be fine. Or you can spend a few $$$ more and know that all will be fine, no matter what. Just get a different valve, sub plate & fittings and use 1/2" hose and all will be good, no mater what your conditions might be.

Just my :2cents:

No need to get snippy. I think I just realized your point: the fluid is ALWAYS flowing through the PB portion of the 3rd function valve. So whether I am "using" it or not, it is reducing the flow.

Correct?

Remember, I started this thread because I have a lot to learn about this stuff and there is no FAQ I could find.

ac

avc8130 · Sep 10, 2013

I'm starting to learn and I think I have figured out some things:

I am looking at Prince SV series valves since they appear to be Made in USA and of good quality for reasonable prices.

I've come up with the following:
SVW1CA1: 4-Way Motor Spool w/ Spring Center (Work Ports Open to Tank in Neutral) This looks like it would be good for a hydraulic motor such as an auger.
SVW1BA1: 4-Way Double Acting w/ Spring Center (Work Ports Blocked in Neutral) This looks like it would be good for a double-acting cylinder that I want to STAY in position.
SVW1DD1: 4-Way 4 Position Float w/ Spring Center and Float Detent This looks like it would be good to be able to "float" a double-acting cylinder.

What would SVW1AA 3-Way Single Acting w/ Spring Center be good for?

Other than cost, is there any reason NOT to use 2 SVW1DD1?

Thanks,
ac

MtnViewRanch · Sep 10, 2013

avc8130 said:
No need to get snippy. I think I just realized your point: the fluid is ALWAYS flowing through the PB portion of the 3rd function valve. So whether I am "using" it or not, it is reducing the flow.

Correct?

Remember, I started this thread because I have a lot to learn about this stuff and there is no FAQ I could find.

ac

Correct, there is constant flow with that type of valve. That sub plate uses #6 fittings, those and the passages in the valve are just to small for the constant flow for your tractor. Best to spend a few more dollars and not have to be concerned if you will be doing any damage to the system IMO.

J_J · Sep 10, 2013

avc8130 said:
I'm starting to learn and I think I have figured out some things:

I am looking at Prince SV series valves since they appear to be Made in USA and of good quality for reasonable prices.

I've come up with the following:
SVW1CA1: 4-Way Motor Spool w/ Spring Center (Work Ports Open to Tank in Neutral) This looks like it would be good for a hydraulic motor such as an auger.
SVW1BA1: 4-Way Double Acting w/ Spring Center (Work Ports Blocked in Neutral) This looks like it would be good for a double-acting cylinder that I want to STAY in position.
SVW1DD1: 4-Way 4 Position Float w/ Spring Center and Float Detent This looks like it would be good to be able to "float" a double-acting cylinder.

What would SVW1AA 3-Way Single Acting w/ Spring Center be good for?

Other than cost, is there any reason NOT to use 2 SVW1DD1?

Thanks,
ac

I would not use the single action stack, because you can use a DA splool for a SA cyl by using B work port and plug the other or run the A port to tank.

Probably should have two SVW1DD1 valves with float one for TTL tractor top link and other for the tilt.

The three way detent valve will also run an auger, but use a motor spool if you want to.

I say this again. If you do not run your tractor at WOT, you probably are not producing more than 10 GPM's, so you should be safe.

You can use larger valves and hose if you want to, but not necessary in your situation. You biggest heat source is a relief valve, relieving over pressure.

You can always add to a stacked valve or replace each stack.

avc8130 · Sep 10, 2013

J_J said:
I would not use the single action stack, because you can use a DA splool for a SA cyl by using B work port and plug the other or run the A port to tank.

The three way detent valve will also run an auger, but use a motor spool if you want to.

I say this again. If you do not run your tractor at WOT, you probably are not producing more than 10 GPM's, so you should be safe.

You can use larger valves and hose if you want to, but not necessary in your situation. You biggest heat source is a relief valve, relieving over pressure.

You can always add to a stacked valve or replace each stack.

These valves are rated for 12 gpm, so I should be good there, right?

You are saying I could use SVW1BA to run a motor? But wouldn't stopping the motor put a strain on the system, rather than a true motor valve allowing the motor to "spin down"?

ac

J_J · Sep 10, 2013

That is true if you had a large centrifugal force like a bush hog.

The trick is letting the lever return slowly. Also, a double relief valve across a hyd motor will also protect the motor and valve.

An auger only turns at 150 to 300 max.

You should be good with the 12 GPM rating.

BukitCase · Sep 10, 2013

On your question about using all float valves on SV - generally your assumption is true, you don't HAVE to use the float position but it's nice to have it IF you want to.

One downside, that may or may not affect you - be aware that the standard handles that ship with SV valve sections have a "dogleg" in them - they are bent just above where the two holes are drilled in the handle, one hole for the pivot point and the other to pin to the valve spool itself.

The Handles end up kind of close together for use with gloves - you can reverse every other handle (not the valve section, just the handle) so one is offset AWAY from you, the next one TOWARD you - this gives you a "feel" method of finding the right handle without looking at it, and gives you more "glove room"...

BUT - I found out by trial and error that, if you put TWO FLOAT sections next to each other and mount your handles with one bent forward, the other bent backward, the valve with the handle bent TOWARD the spool will NOT make it all the way into float position before the bend in the handle stops spool movement.

I have an SV with two float, plus two spring center sections - my (marginal) solution is to alternate Float and non-float sections, point the handles AWAY from spool on the float sections and TOWARD the spools on the other two sections.

This gives me "glove room" between handles by having the "shift balls" staggered, but means that I can not have two "float functions" adjacent to each other on the stack UNLESS I'm willing to fight the close spacing.

If you have smaller hands than mine, or don't consider this a problem, cool - just sharing an UN-DOCUMENTED "feature" of the Prince valves so others may find out the EASY way... Steve

avc8130 · Sep 10, 2013

Steve,

Thanks for the heads up!

ac

medic0648 · Sep 11, 2013

1 thing about the sv series valves, they appear to have a tendency to leak a little more than some other valves. That can translate into your top, tilt, or both not staying where they're set as well. They're still a good valve, and not all the valves have the issue.