? Help Me ?

[N2DFire]

Telescopic/extendable 3 PTH lift arms?

get those. They make connecting implements much easier.

Here I may have to slightly disagree and recommend buying a QuickHitch instead - but with some things to consider first.

How much is it to upgrade to these?
- A harbor freight QH is $99 retail and with the many 20% off coupons can be had for about $80 out the door easy enough. I'll let you do your own research on the cheaper QH brands like Harbor Freight & Tractor Supply but I have been happy with mine so far.

How many implements do you have that are not QH compatible?
- In your case starting out I'm assuming none so you don't have old equipment to modify

Are you planning to add a hydraulic "Top-n-Tilt" or at least the hydraulic top link?
- If so the QH almost becomes a No brainer. The ability to manipulate it with the lift & hydraulics to back up to & catch pretty much any implement means you almost never have to leave the seat to hook & unhook (PTO attachments notwithstanding)

The older CK line (like mine) came with the extendedable lift arms standard and they are indeed great to have (previous tractor was old 8N ford and spent my fair share of time wrestling stuff in place to hook up) but once I added the QH I never need them again.

Just some more things to consider - like it's not overwhelming enough already. lol

 

[ericm979]

The QH adds about 4" of length. Probably not an issue for many people but it'd be a problem for me as my barn has a steep short ramp. I have to use the hydraulic top link to tilt the chipper up so it will clear. The added length will change the require PTO shaft length for shorter shafts. Longer ones will probably be ok but if you go from QH to no QH make sure the shafts have enough travel so they don't bottom out and put force on the tractor's PTO output shaft.

Some implements don't play well with the quick hitch. There's an alternate top hook that you can buy or make that helps with some of them but not all.

If I didn't have telescoping 3pt links I'd try a quick hitch rather than put up with non telescoping links and threaded sway adjusters.

top and tilt makes hooking up easier without the quick hitch too.

 

[rScotty]

Finally getting ready to purchase my first ever tractor. I have decided on. Kioti CK2610. What added items from the dealer should I really get? I am for sure getting the 4030 loader and the rear remotes and rubber floor mat. This tractor will be hydro. What else is worth having done right away?
Thank you

Of course any tractor is better than none, and I do like your choices of basics

Just keep in mind that the only thing that you cannot change is the tractor itself. IMHO, the only reason to go small is if you need for the tractor to also be a lawn type mower - from yard to golf course size. I guess smaller would be better for working inside a barn, too.

But if you have 5 to 10 acres or more, then there are lots of arguments in favor of going larger - on up to the utility size tractors size tractors in the roughly 35 to 45 hp range. Not for the power so much as for the greater stability and capability of their matching loader and larger availability of implements. Larger implements are often available used, and these are less expensive than smaller garden size ones. For mowing that much land you would normally use a pull behind mower anyway, and the utility size tractor does all these things as well or better. Plus it's more comfortable.

A lot of the old farm tractors were fairly large frame, and heavy, but not large HP. There was a reason for that.... They could handle large 3pt implements and also a sizable loader without being unstable - and 35 hp is plenty if geared properly.
rScotty

 

[Honeydown]

So yesterday I drove past my mahindra dealer and actually stopped in and drove a new 2638, it drove great. I have wanted a larger hp tractor but didn't want to deal with the DPF. Any thoughts on this new mahindra. I guess it's the same as the old 2538, just a new seat and loader valve moved to the fender

 

[ericm979]

But it still has EFI and DOC. And at least when I was looking a couple years ago Mahindra was at times coming out with new ECU programming and the entire tractor had to be at the dealer to update it. My dealer's 250 miles away so I didn't want to do that. I bought a Branson from them instead.

You can't get away from emissions systems on new 25+hp tractors, you can only select a well sorted implementation of a solution that works for you. Most use EFI DPF and regens. Some have EFI and DOC. Branson has a DOC+DPF with mechanical injection and no discrete regen. Each has it's plusses and minuses. Few cause problems. Most problems with regular DPFs was operators panicing when the light blinks and delaying the regen, and idling the tractor too much. At idle the DOC or DPF does not get hot so it clogs faster.

 

[s219]

So yesterday I drove past my mahindra dealer and actually stopped in and drove a new 2638, it drove great. I have wanted a larger hp tractor but didn't want to deal with the DPF. Any thoughts on this new mahindra. I guess it's the same as the old 2538, just a new seat and loader valve moved to the fender

Mahindra has done a good job marketing because many people think their tractors have magically met Tier IV without complicated emissions. The more educated buyers will dig into the details and open up a debate about DPF versus DOC.

Both have pros and cons. Both have complicated computer controls. No free lunch either way.

Compared to a slightly older tractor with neither DPF or DOC, these newer systems are both less desirable in my opinion. I would gladly take a Tier IV Interim machine without DOC or DPF versus a new Tier IV tractor with.

 

[stuckmotor]

I think I read somewhere that Kubota loaders have a priority Kubota quick attach and with some a skid steer quick attach is an option. I'd go with the SSQA because attachments to fit on it are easy to find.