Man, it took me three years of whining to get my wife into a skidsteer for her horse barn work -- and I gave up on her months before. We went on a road trip to check out dealers & tractors. She sat on a NH TC40 and looked across the lot -- when little hearts popped out of her eyes, then pointed and said " What's that?". Well, I was so shocked (she is reluctant to spend money most of the time) I couldn't speak. She btought home a NH LS125. And an hour of time on the clock, with a decent manure pile outside the runs, she claims every horse barn should come with one. To her credit, she appreciates the value of quality gear, and was willing to buy on ein the past if I could give her good enough reasons to buy one, she jsut had to come to it herself (you can take a horse woman to the water, but you can't make her drink).
Now that we have this unit, I have found (on this site) what I think is a much more practical unit: the Power Trac. Or something like it. At least for a barn yard vehicle.
Are you using small square bales? We got forks for the 'Minsteer'. haven't bought any hay yet, but I envision loading the trailer with pallets to make unloading easier (may not work, we'll see). Oh yeah, buy enough trailer. And truck.
On your mowing: are you a fastidious must be edged person, or are you a 'mow where we walk so we can see the copper heads' person? I'd go on Craigslist or to yard sales and buy a used riding mower, mount an umbrella on it and call it good for the close work.
I have yet to meet a tractor salesman that wasn't (at least up front) a decent person. And if not, scratch them off the list. A dealer should have a pile of dirt on the lot to move around. They recognize that you are there to learn and a sale (unless hearts pop out of your eye sockets) isn't immediate. Ask for explanations on the transmissions. That took me a while to figure out, and I am mechanically minded.
You have basically three methods of transmissions: conventional gear type (just like any car or truck); shuttle type (the transmission has gears to select, but there is a seperate 'shuttle' box that has only forward and reverse); and the hydrostatic transmission ( hst, just like in skid steers -- Bobcat's -- just one peddle that you push/rock one direction for forward, and the opposite direction for reverse, some have one peddle for each function). Each transmission has its advantage. Gear type is cheap, reliable, but slow to operate. Shuttle type is still reliable, but changing directions is faster, especially if it has the auto clutch (many names for this, basically it allows you to change directions with out using the foot clutch). The shuttle type still requires you to use the clutch to change gears (the reason you change gears is to select a different speed for your tractor to run either for economy or load). In tractors you rarely shift from one to another gear while moving (unlike a car). With hst you have a lot of convenience of direction changes. You set the engine speed and then use the pedal to change direction of travel or to change you speed. especially useful for loader operation. It's main disadvantages are it uses a bit more fuel, is more difficult to maintain a steady speed (optional cruise control on some models), and it uses a bit of the engine power to function (versus power to the gorund).
Another area worth some attention is understanding what devices use hydraulics, and what hydraulic options you will need and what you may want. For example, in my area we have a wide variety of ground conditions. I want to be able to run a post hole digger, but conventional 3 point mounted units are often difficult to use. So I want to be able to run a hydraulic powered one (I can rent them from the local Bobcat dealer -- i just need a front end loader with quick attach -- skid steer type). You cna add hydraulic features to many machines, but not all.
Some terms:
FEL/loader means front end loader; it can be a 'quick attach' to the tractor (means you can easily remove/attach without tools so you can use the tractor to mow, etc, or work on it), as well as it may have 'quick attach bucket' or skid steer implements. Deere has its own style of quick attach bucket NOT skid steer compatible (save the mini-skid steer and my wife's unit, most modern skid steer units have the same mounting plate for implements). Most newer fel's can have the bucket and links the bucket attached to replaced/upgraded to a skid steer type if you find a machine priced reasonably and are willing to see if you want this later.
3ph: Means 'three point hitch'. They come in different sizes: 0,1,2,3. Some even say '1/2' or similar (means they are rated to do the first and some of the lighter loads of the second). There is a standard range of size for each of these numbers. This means that compliant implements will have the same size (or within the range) dimensions in the mounting area and weight. You can use a lighter range implement on a heavier tractor with the use of bushings (short tubes, very cheap). The various brands use different numbers to describe what there 3ph will lift (same with the fel) so it is sometimes difficult to compare apples to apples.
Hydraulics bring on a whole other discussion I am not yet comfortable to describe, but a couple are: fel mounted or fender mounted fel controls/joystick. This is where the loader controls are mounted. On tractors with the loader controls mounted on the fender they are more comfortable to use -- and with the loader removed can be used to control other implements! Some savings here (of course this means you can't use the loader with the other implement, but you can always add hydraulics later for the implement). Rear remotes are hydraulic fittings (usually 'quick connects', like water hose quick connects) mounted near the 3ph. Used to run rear mounted implements or a 'top and tilt' 3ph (this is a set up used to adjust the left/right pivot/tilt and the forward/back tilt of an implement, often a blade or box blade). Sometimes mounted in the middle or front of a tractor for using implements in that area (for controlling a snow blower chute -- you will not ever see one in Mobile, or it's too late if you ever need one there). I saw one set up on the FEL near the bucket for running a broom. One other option is called a 'power beyond' feature. This is when you can add 'remotes' to existing hydraulics. Saves some money. Other uses for remotes are to run a post hole digger, wood splitter, etc.
Personally I would not stake a horse out unless you are going to be in visual distance. Though maybe an overhead line tied between two trees (so the horse can run the line) might work. A horse has one thing it does well: run. And that is its only response to fear (which is healthy for a critter on the plains). My wife ahs drilled it into me (and yes, proven it to me) that you only let a horse make good decisions by only letting it have no choices. Nor sharp objects, loose ropes, etc. All you need is one interested dog or a snake to startle it and you have a wreck on your hands.
You will want the fel to lift a load high enough to dump inside your truck (unless you get a trailer, then almost anything will dump into it). You could build a dock to run high enough to work, though that isn't as convenient.
You will have daily maintenance on the fel, and some other tractor maintenance, that is owner required. Mostly it is greasing the fel and other 'zerks' (grease joints), checking fluid levels (quality and topping off), occasional filter changes (usually real easy).
Things to ask about: weights to balance the fel (almost all tractors need them). Several methods exist, and you will find discussions here on them (calcium chloride, methanol/windshield washer fluid, RV anti-freeze, iron weights, etc). There are pro's and con's to each. You may even want front weights if you remove the fel (removing the fel makes the machine easier to manuever and balances better when steering, plus a lighter tractor doesn't compact the ground as much). Tire type most suitable to you (R1=old sytly agricultural tires, R4=Industrial style, others). Each has its pluses and minuses and may play into the wieghts (how much fluid they can hold).
Are you going to want an arena? Silly question, as you have horses and wishes to ride.... Plays into thinking about maueverability and arena care equipment (drags, etc).
I found that there is at least one discount program out there based on membership: the Quarter Horse Association has a decent discount with John Deere on a couple of models. Also, Deere has a configurator that lets you put in your expected uses and derives a couple of tractors for you. Other brands probably have them too. I found that few dealers have a representatve model of each line in stock. Around here (Denver area) most only have a couple of models other than the CUT in stock. Made it difficult to figure out what I wanted (and the JD dealer didn't have the 1/4horse assn models in stock).
You can consider using the dealer offered financing, but I found that as I planned on a doen payment anyhow I could get a discount up front on the price instead and used my credit union. The newer tractors may have better seating (the seat is on an inclined rail so that as you adjust it fwd/back it raises and lowers) also, you can always buy a new seat.
A concern I had, brand wise, was whether the brand had been around long enough so that the national distributor was stable. A distributor for a brand brings in particlular models. if they go out of business and another distributor comes in (or even if they buy the previous one out) they may not import the exact same model. This leaves you with a slow process to get parts. I had concerns with the Korean, Chinese, and Indian brands for that reason. In the case of your old 8N, or my old Case VAC, the dealer still can get parts for it (plus a fair amount of aftermarket stuff). Wathc out for 'grey market' CUT (oh, compact utility tractor). Kubota has a whole spiel on them.
Oh, and PTO: power take off. Used for mowers (Bush Hog is actually a brand), mostly 3ph mounted (riding mowers have mid-mount mowers, or mmm). Can be used for other things (the fellow with the Kubota and the tiller in the pictures). Most are 540 rpm's at a certain engine speed. A few are rated at 1000 rpm's (revolutions per minute). The rating is at a certain engine rpm (usually the max power rating of the engine). Most of the 1000 rpm pto's are for the mmm. Be suspicous of tractors with other speed pto's (or three speed pto's). They are probably the grey market units. They may be good units, but as you are not mechanically inclined, you could be left with high costs and downtime for parts.
Did I ramble long enough? Sorry for the dump. I just threw out my stack of tractor land wish books (finally bought one). Now to accessorize -- oh, sorry -- buy man stuff: implements.
If you buy low, make sure the tractor is modern enough that is has a few things: fel, pto (live -- means it will not stop running when you push the clutch in to change gears), heavy enough 3ph (my old Case has just enough to lift my box scraper if I back off of the dirt it pushes). Power steering is probably a want as well (or you re-learn how old trucks were driven: ease off the clutch and THEN start turning). Brakes are only on the rear wheels, and can be used independently to help turn a tractor (one peddle for each wheel, with a little lever you can use to lock the brakes to work normally). 4wd/fwd/forward assist/mfd units can be an assist on this by having 4wd on and applying the brakes (uses all 4 wheels then). The previous terms are most of the ways of saying 'four wheel drive'. Each brand has to be a wise acre and re-invent the term. A couple of the brands have a method to automagicaly engage the 4wd to assist in stopping. You usually don't leave these units in 4wd, but use it as necessary (it really wears the front tires quickly). Most newer tractors have a way to lock the rear axle. This is a small ever you plant your heel on and it makes both tires go the same to get you unstuck (or not spin the one wheel). My old Case (mid 50's) doesn't have that. Wished it did.
Ok, bye!
