Help on barn doors project

   / Help on barn doors project #1  

tamarack

Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2007
Messages
48
Location
Baker City, Oregon
Tractor
B7800
I have a opening on one end of my carport that I would like to install barn doors on in order to keep out the birds, cats, dogs etc. I am thinking about building the door frames out of 2 inch steel tubing and skinning the frames with metal roofing material. The door sizes would be 10 feet by 6.5 feet wide. I am considering either 16 or 14 gauge tubing. I would weld the hinges to the frame and the hinges would be bolted to the 6X6 poles that are on each end of the carport opening. I would appreciate any input from others that might have built something similar. Thanks !

hilaker

Thanks to all that responded. After reading the replies, I am trying to decide whether to frame out of lumber or steel tubing. I will post pictures when the project is completed. Thanks again.

hilaker
 
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   / Help on barn doors project #2  
Whatever you come up with, I would like to see pictures!
 
   / Help on barn doors project #3  
   / Help on barn doors project #4  
I have built many barn doors or sliding doors with steel studs and metal roofing, I say go for it.
You may need a diagonal brace or two though. Roofing is about 38.5" wide to cover 36".
 
   / Help on barn doors project #5  
I would use 4 hinges on a ten foot high door. Do not forget to use diagonal bracing as well. Cabling from the top down to the bottom corner can also help keep things square. If you design alittle overlap it makes for easier locking. When the doors are open I find a ,"L" shaped rod upside down helps keep the door pinned to the ground in that open position. Enjoy your build.
 
   / Help on barn doors project #6  
I once needed to make 10 ft H X 12 ft wide doors for a barn project.

I had my truss manufacturer make me a pair of 12 ft high by 6 ft wide square roof trusses!
Price was really attractive, actually about no more than what the wood would have cost.
Since they install truss plates in all corners and on the diagonals that panel was rock solid.
I covered inside with thinnest plywood available and sheathed outer side with matching barn siding.
I also filled all voids with 1 1/2" foam as this was a horse stable.
Worked out really well and client was very pleased.

Take my word for it, those panels were real rigid and could withstand much abuse.

For maximum durability you could treat the 'trusses' with the green fungicidal stain they use on decks.
 
   / Help on barn doors project #7  
Piloon has a good idea, I could see where it worked out fine.

I have made sliding shop doors out of tubing and then covered the inside with 1/4 in plywood to give it strength and the outside with lightweight roofing panels. I always stuff them full of building insulation, not only insulates them but gives it a more solid feel, doesn't sound hollow when opening/closing.

I have also had good luck framing them up out of 2x4's or 2x6's. I always screw them together using long black square head screws (square head bit) and use construction adhesive to glue the plywood to the wood and then screw or nail the wood on really solid. Make sure you build them on a good flat, level, solid surface because you want them flat, not warped when finished. If not flat, doors will not turn out straight/flat. And plywood will work to keep the doors square/solid. I drill a hole into the side of one piece big enough to then put my screw in that hole and screw into the adjoining piece. I lay my wood down flat, making my inner frame just 1.5 inches thick. then cover with 1/4 in on inside and maybe 1/2 inch on outside. I have one door into my lawn mower shed I did 1/4 inside, barn tin outside. It's been in use 15 yrs and still as solid as the day it was built. The secret is screw n glue to get a sturdy door.

If building it 10' tall I think I would use 2 x 6's for the sides of the frame and 2 x 4's for the horizontal pieces spaced every 2'. Keep in mind where you want your hardware and incorporate that into your framing plans. Drill into the sides of the 2x6's and screw into the 2x4's using atleast a 4" screw, longer if you can get them. add extra framing for locks n hardware. By using 2x6's, it gives you plenty of meat to mount your hinges into and 4 hinges sounds good for that heavy of a door. Insulate them. If you like using roofing panels for the outside that will work too but screw the panels on ising mobile home style hex head screws.

I've had great sucess, gotten lots of good compliments and even built doors for other people using those same designs. They hold up well and still seem sturdy years down the road.
 

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