Help ordering hydraulic fittings (for rear remote)

[Sodo]

Hello,

Can anybody help me identify these fittings so I can order them online? This is the rear remote that came on my used Kubota B2710 (DINOIL brand). Currently its operating the top-n-Tilt on the 3-point hitch. and the middle spool is un-used.

I want to add another set of fittings and a lever to the 3rd spool, but I've never ordered hydraulic fittings before, don't know my way around the names (or threads). I was going to assume that if there's teflon sealant then it's 1/4" NPT but decided to ask first.

Don't know what "A" is, or H, J. B is possibly a 1/4" nipple. Bolt laying there is for size comparison, it's 5/16". E is an oops (have plenty of those).

I know I need these items:

C Qty: 2
D Qty: 2
F Qty: 2
G Qty: 2

Can anybody help me with what I need to order (to get this 3rd spool operational) and how to call out each part?

 

[Leejohn]

1st off take cap H off and see if that is JC fitting. You might have to change J just so you can use a short and a long 90 deg. to get you up and over the other fittings. The 2 long 90's could of been done with one fitting each.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Also; I would download pages of a catalog like Surplus Center and compare the pictures. The QC should have a name and number on them usually the sliding locking sleeve. When you put it all back together "DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE LIKE THE LAST GUY DID"; use a paste or liquid teflon pipe joint compound and only apply on the male pipe threads, leave the first thread bare. Invariably pieces of that tape break off inside and gum up the system.

Ron

 

[Leejohn]

I forgot to add and I was going to. The fitting all look to be 3/8" or #6.

 

[Sodo]

Yes probably 3/8". I could have measured them but thread does looks bigger than that 1/2" bolt head.
Thx for the note Ron, I always leave the 1st thread bare.

How do I tell if I have ISO 7241 or ISO 5675?

 

[Leejohn]

Go here http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/qd_sizechart.pdf

 

[Sodo]

Thanks Lee, thats perfect. My tractor is 3 hours away so I can't look at the moment. Does anybody know whats standard for Kubota? I dont know if the rear hydraulics installed is "standard Kubota".

 

[rswyan]

I'm thinking that the pipe thread on the NPT fittings (and the quick couplers themselves) look more like 1/4" NPT.

Also looks like the fittings that go directly into the valve itself may be SAE Straight Thread O-Ring (aka "ORB" or O-Ring Boss) on the valve side.

Thanks Lee, thats perfect. My tractor is 3 hours away so I can't look at the moment. Does anybody know whats standard for Kubota? I dont know if the rear hydraulics installed is "standard Kubota".

In terms of your particular machine I' don't know that your questions above have any meaning, as I'm not sure your unit was ever offered with rear hydraulic remotes.

Kubota did offer a rear hydraulic block assembly as an option - which provided two ports (Out and In) to allow installation of a valve block (with Power Beyond), in series, just before the 3PH. If memory serves, the (female) ports on that hydraulic block were 1/4" NPT thread ... but I would have to check the instruction sheet or do a visual to make sure.

 

[Sodo]

I just assumed it was a Kubota kit, really have no idea. But I'm pretty sure it was installed by the Kubota dealer & ideally will have the same couplers as on the FEL.

When I get back to the tractor I will verify this. Got that pic of the ISO styles on my phone, will be easy to identify them. Also take off the covers I see whats under. Downloaded this "Hydraulic fittings thread guide" pdf to my phone.

Anyway thanks for the help to get going!

 

[BukitCase]

Sodo, if that mess you posted was done by your Kubota dealer, I would run away if they ever offered to do anything for you again :thumbdown:

1 - cobbled up fittings when there are single piece ones (cheaper and stronger too) to do the same job
2 - Teflon tape instead of NON-teflon, actual hydraulic joint sealer on pipe fittings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HZKU4O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm kinda surprised they didn't use black iron, the rest of the job's so sub-standard.

Short non-QD - SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) 90° Elbow
Long non-QD - SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) 90° Extra Long Elbow
Short QD, ORB to pipe, screws right into Ag-style QD if there's enough clearance - O-Ring Boss (ORB) x Male Pipe (NPTF) 90° Elbow
Long (tall) QD - needs 1 high pressure nipple for female pipe input on Ag-style QD's - O-Ring Boss (ORB) x Male Pipe (NPTF) 90° Elbow

If the thread chart you dnl doesn't mention, NPTF stands for National Pipe Tapered Fuel - slightly different (better) thread shape than NPT, but compatible.

Also - if you need best flow on the new circuit, either upsize the QD's by one size or go for POPPET style instead of BALL style QD's.

Also, if you're ALWAYS gonna leave the TnT attached, I would probably remove the QD's entirely, and go with JIC fittings. Cleaner install and less leaks.

HTH... Steve (Oh, forgot to mention - in most cases, when using 90's don't even bother with the "long" versions - "short" and "long long" will clear each other, middle length usually NOT - )