Help pouring a concret pad.

   / Help pouring a concret pad. #21  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Junkman,

.......................... ground the stumps ........... )</font>

I must tell you that this is the part that really have me worried. You might have gotten those stumps out of the way, but they are still down there. They will eventually rot and then there is a large void where they were. This will not happen right away, and the one incident that I am familiar with, it took approximately 30 years before the problem was recognized. It happened at the shopping center where I had my store. One day after a heavy snow fall where the roof had a lot on it, one of the support columns for the roof pushed through the concrete slab. They cut a hole in the concrete and framed it out for a pier and nothing more was said. All this work was done while the store was closed. Move forward 2 more years, and the building is now vacant with a new tenant thinking of renting the space. They had heard of the "roof" problem along the way. The building owner in an attempt to placate the prospective tenant, had a concrete cutting service cut a 5' square hole in the floor. That cut out piece dropped like a lead sinker about 3'. We all stood there in amazement as the worker jumped into the hole and shown a flashlight around the underneath. He just said, in amazement, you aren't going to believe this. I then jumped into the hole and also looked. There was nothing under most of the floor for 3' down. The building was condemned immediately and repairs made. Just remember that those stumps will come to haunt you some day. If you aren't planning on living there for a long time, you are safe. If this is the last home that you will ever own, then do it right and remove the stumps and have the ground professionally compacted.
 
   / Help pouring a concret pad. #22  
Listen to Junkman regarding those stumps... All organic material must be removed from the slab area, or this will just be a big problem waiting for the worst possible time to appear (Murphy's Law...).

Corm
 
   / Help pouring a concret pad.
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Thanks to both of you for the heads up.
Actually, my stump guy was the first one to warn me about this. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

While stumping (he used a huge Vermeer unit), he made sure to dig down at least 20", or until there was no more wood. After the stumping and before I started grading, I used a subsoiler to find anything left of any size and dig it out. I'm pretty confident that anything left is just the odd finger sized root (Max has been helping with those). /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I just got another 10 tons of fill to finish the grading. After all the great posts I've had to my original question, I think I'm leaning towards having a professional frame and pour it.

I may be a greenhorn, but I know enough to know when I'm getting out of my comfort zone!! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Help pouring a concret pad. #24  
if you aren't in a rush, then wait till next spring and the ground will be naturally compacted.
 
   / Help pouring a concret pad. #25  
I have done two concrete pads at this house and one at the earlier house. That makes me a novice by all standards. Here is what I have learned.

1 - always reinforce your concrete. Wire is ok. Rebar is better. Rebar costs a few pennies more and takes a little longer to put down and tie up, but is stronger, and by the time you futz with the wire to get it in the middle, you have spent as much time as you woulda tying rebar.

2 - gravel compacts, sand does not. You don't realize that that means till you see your "work of art" crack 6 months later.

3 - Nothing, but nothing, substitutes for experience when it comes to finishing concrete. Any moron, self included, can pour concrete. It takes experience to make the surface look decent.

4 - 2x4 frames only give a 3 - 3 1/2 inch concrete. Enough for a 10x10 like I did, but I wouldn't go much bigger.

5 - concrete is cheap in small quantities. I spent about 100 bucks for a yard and a quarter of concrete to do a 10x10 pad. Unfortunately, a 20x20 takes 4x as much concrete so it get expensive very fast on larger projects, especially when you increase depth to support heavier projects.

6 - think about sealing your concrete. I cry at myself for not doing so every time I walk into my shed and see that oil spot from where the edger leaked..
 
   / Help pouring a concret pad. #26  
That oil spot can be cleaned by scrubbing with a solution of dish washing liquid and water. Use a floor scrub brush on your hands and knees, and rinse often till it is gone. If there is a small stain when you are finished, learn to live with it. Oil spots can come out, but it takes time and patience. One thing to remember, the longer it is there, the harder it is to get out. I keep a 10# bag of kitty litter in the garage at all times to clean up spills. One of the nice things about kitty litter, is that if you have a fire going, you can throw it into the fire and the clay will burn pretty colors..... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif If not, then just bag and dispose of in garbage. After you clean up the bulk of a spill, sweep up the used kitty litter and put down some fresh. Then do the "oil spill tango" on the spot with your feet till the spot is gone. Sweep up and enjoy a cool one after all that dancing. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Help pouring a concret pad.
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Junkman,

Boy, how I wish I could wait! Unfortunately, I'm running out of places to put my STUFF, and I'm at about the breaking point! When we bought our house and land 3 years ago it was just that, a house and land. This means that all the tools I own (considerable), and can easily lift are stored in two lockable cabinets on the back porch, and the ones I can't lift easily, are stored UNDER the back porch. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

With the addition of the B7800, endless lawn tractor attachments, and 3pt gear, it's impossible to manage any of it without at least this small shed. Everytime I need something I have to unpack and move almost everything else, then put it all back under lock and key. I spend more time packing and unpacking than doing the actual job!! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif I can't repeat what I'm yelling everytime I spend 45 minutes setting up my table saw to do 30 minutes worth of work, then putting it all back!

Eventually, there will be a barn and another workshop but right now, I NEED something!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
   / Help pouring a concret pad. #28  
No gravel, I removed about 4" of top soil and poured the 6" slab. I used 2x6's for form boards, lots of wire mesh and added about a dozen pieces of rebar that was laying around.
 
   / Help pouring a concret pad. #29  
Buy a shipping container for storage and wait the year... You will not regret the wait, but if the concrete cracks, you will be one unhappy camper...
 

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