OP
Colby Forest
Bronze Member
Thanks Steve, but I need at least an 84". The tractor is almost 80".
Help quick! Snowblower for M5040?
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Colby Forest,
Congrats to your new tractor. If we have a winter like the last two were, you will be out there clearing your driveway with a smile on your face. Keep an eye out for large blowers in the used section of publications. I found mine used and it was only an hour's drive from home . I think that was lucky.
Congrats to your new tractor. If we have a winter like the last two were, you will be out there clearing your driveway with a smile on your face. Keep an eye out for large blowers in the used section of publications. I found mine used and it was only an hour's drive from home . I think that was lucky.
OP
Colby Forest
Bronze Member
Sure was. I'll be keeping my eyes peeled. Right now I'm trying to figure out how to deal with the dripping anti-freeze coming from where the dealer installed the block heater! 
Don't want to have to haul it back over the narrow, hilly, bumpy 60-mile round trip.
Don't want to have to haul it back over the narrow, hilly, bumpy 60-mile round trip.I guess you may have solved the problem by now but here is what I would do. If the tractor is new, call the dealer first and see if they are willing to come to your house to fix the problem.
If the answer is no, chalk it up as not to deal with them in the future and do the following.
Drain out the coolant from the engine into a clean container so you can later reuse the coolant. Take out the block heater plug from the engine block with large wrench. Take off the teflon or whatever sealer the dealer used on the threads. Apply new teflon tape only be sure to use a good bit more then dealer did.
Reinstall heater and refill with coolant.
Good luck and have fun.
Edit: I tried to make sure that I don't wrap tape on the portion of the plug that protrudes into the cooling liquid. It may cause some clogging or something if a piece of the sealant was to get into the radiator. I may be full of it on that one. But what if I'm not? I don't know but was cautious anyway.
If the answer is no, chalk it up as not to deal with them in the future and do the following.
Drain out the coolant from the engine into a clean container so you can later reuse the coolant. Take out the block heater plug from the engine block with large wrench. Take off the teflon or whatever sealer the dealer used on the threads. Apply new teflon tape only be sure to use a good bit more then dealer did.
Reinstall heater and refill with coolant.
Good luck and have fun.
Edit: I tried to make sure that I don't wrap tape on the portion of the plug that protrudes into the cooling liquid. It may cause some clogging or something if a piece of the sealant was to get into the radiator. I may be full of it on that one. But what if I'm not? I don't know but was cautious anyway.
OP
Colby Forest
Bronze Member
Thanks for the instructions. I haven't dealt with it yet (except to put a pan under it). Life (and the rain) has interrupted my tractor time. Also want to make sure I understand it so I can make sure if I take it back, or get them to come out, I'll know if they did it right.
It seems to be leaking where the bushing for the heater meets the engine block in the freeze plug hole. The big question is: Is the freeze plug hole closest to the cab on the M5040 threaded or not? I can't be sure just from looking. The reason I wonder is I noticed in an illustration in the manual that they drew that one with what looks like a hexagonal nut (right above the engine oil dipstick), where the other ones are just round circles. (on the first white page of the manual- page 1 of Servicing of Tractor, bottom of left column, figure titled "Tractor identification plate". Manual covers M50-,60- and 7040)
It seems to be leaking where the bushing for the heater meets the engine block in the freeze plug hole. The big question is: Is the freeze plug hole closest to the cab on the M5040 threaded or not? I can't be sure just from looking. The reason I wonder is I noticed in an illustration in the manual that they drew that one with what looks like a hexagonal nut (right above the engine oil dipstick), where the other ones are just round circles. (on the first white page of the manual- page 1 of Servicing of Tractor, bottom of left column, figure titled "Tractor identification plate". Manual covers M50-,60- and 7040)
I don't know if the freeze plug opening on the M5040 is threaded or not. It is a threaded hole on my B7510. I installed the block heater on machine and that was the steps I followed.
I guess I should not have assumed that it is the same on yours. You could also try to find out if the block heater that fits your machine is threaded or not. That could answer the question. If you didn't buy the tractor new they may be reluctant to come out for the repair and even if they do so the mobile repair vehicle is usually booked up a week or two in advance. It would not take you all that much time to do it yourself. In any case contact the dealer and see what they are willing to do for you.
Ps: I bought my tractor used from a dealer and had a new loader installed on it. The hydraulic line from the pump to the loader was leaking at a fitting. I probably could have fixed it but didn't want to mess with it and would had had to buy a few specially shaped wrenches that I have no other use for. The fix it truck was there in a week and took him 40 minutes to correct the problem.
I guess I should not have assumed that it is the same on yours. You could also try to find out if the block heater that fits your machine is threaded or not. That could answer the question. If you didn't buy the tractor new they may be reluctant to come out for the repair and even if they do so the mobile repair vehicle is usually booked up a week or two in advance. It would not take you all that much time to do it yourself. In any case contact the dealer and see what they are willing to do for you.
Ps: I bought my tractor used from a dealer and had a new loader installed on it. The hydraulic line from the pump to the loader was leaking at a fitting. I probably could have fixed it but didn't want to mess with it and would had had to buy a few specially shaped wrenches that I have no other use for. The fix it truck was there in a week and took him 40 minutes to correct the problem.